Changing Pump Oil

[Bob_OH]

In the "General Tech Support" forum it is stated that when de-winterizing, you should change your pump oil if you didn't when you winterized (if it's a Sea-Doo). I bought a 98 GSXL last August and when I winterized it ,I didn't change the oil. I am fairly new to Sea-Doo ownership (I have a Polaris that I completely rebuilt the motor on)so I don't know how to change the pump oil. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

[John Kubiak]

Oil Inspection
Detach ball joint of steering cable from nozzle.
SPX, GSX Limited, GSX RFI and XP Limited
Detach ball joint of VTS link rod.
GTS, GTI and GTX Limited
Detach ball joint of reverse cable and springs from
reverse gate (GTS model only).
All Models
Remove 4 screws retaining venturi to jet pump
housing.
GTI and GTX Limited
Remove reverse gate and support.
All Models
Pull nozzle and venturi from jet pump housing.
NOTE: On the GTS model, the venturi and reverse
gate are removed as an assembly.
Remove plug from cover.
Check oil level, it should be at bottom of hole
threads.
If oil level is low, check impeller shaft housing for
leaks. A pressure test must be performed. See
PUMP PRESSURIZATION.
To check oil condition, insert a wire-tie through oil level
hole then withdraw. A whitish oil indicates water
contamination.
This may involve defective impeller shaft seal
and/or O-ring of housing cover. Jet pump unit
should be overhauled to replace seal.
everything is correct, apply Loctite pipe sealant
P/N 293 800 018) on plug threads and reinstall it
on cover. Properly reinstall removed parts.

Changing Pump Oil
Remove venturi as described in Oil Inspection.
Remove 3 screws retaining cover.
Using a soft hammer, gently tap cover to release
it from housing cover.
Thoroughly clean reservoir and inside of cover
with a solvent. Check O-ring condition. Replace as
necessary.
Apply a thin layer of Loctite 518 on mating surface
of cover and reinstall it with its O-ring. Torque
screws to 4 N•m (35 lb•in).
Remove plug from cover.
Pour oil through hole until oil reaches the bottom
of hole threads. Use SEA-DOO JET PUMP SYNTHETIC
OIL (P/N 293 600 011) only. Oil will drain
slowly into center area of housing, wait a few minutes
and readjust oil level.
Apply Loctite pipe sealant (P/N 293 800 018) on
plug threads and reinstall it on cover.
Properly reinstall removed parts.
- CAUTION
This is a synthetic oil. Do not mix with mineral
based oil. Do not mix oil brands.

PUMP PRESSURIZATION
Whenever doing any type of repair on jet pump, a
pressure test should be done to check for leakage.
Proceed as follows:
– Remove drain plug from cover.
– Apply Loctite PST 592 on threads of fitting tool
(P/N 295 000 086) then secure on cover.
– Connect pump gauge tester (P/N 295 000 085)
to fitting.
– Pressurize pump to a maximum of 70 kPa (10
PSI).
– Pump must maintain this pressure for at least
10 minutes.
NOTE: If there is a pressure drop spray soapy water
around cover. If there are no bubbles, impeller
shaft, impeller shaft seal, or jet pump housing is
leaking through porosity and has to be replaced.
Jet pump unit has to be disassembled. If jet pump
has been overhauled, the impeller shaft seal
may be leaking; Add a small quantity of
SEA-DOO JET PUMP SYNTHETIC OIL to wet the
oil seal. Let soak and recheck.
– Disconnect pump gauge tester and remove fitting.
– Check oil level. Refill as necessary.
– Apply Loctite PST 592 to threads of filler plug
- CAUTION
Repair any leak, failure to correct a leak will
lead to premature wear of pump components.

[ April 01, 2002, 06:44 AM: Message edited by: Sea-Doo Tech 13736 ]

[Bill O'Neal]

I would like to add to John's list that you should always replace the o-ring. It is very cheap, and old o-rings do leak more often than not. Use a good bead of LocTite 518 on the oring and be sure it is not pinched when you re-install the cone. I use a twisting motion as I install the cone, and then do a visual to be certain that the oring is not pinched before I tigthen the three screws.
Most mistakes are made while re-installing the cone. Another problem I find is cross threaded filler plugs. Be extremely careful when starting the threads of the filler plug into the hole. The cones are plastic now on most models and they strip out the threads easily. The cone is tapped at an angle different than the cone's angle as it tapers down in size. Be very careful with the plug.

[petexp]

Can you use other synthetic oils than the expensive SeaDoo pump oil?


[QUOTE]Originally posted by Sea-Doo Tech 13736:

[Technical Support]

$10 is not expensive, but you can use Mobil 90wt. synthetic gear oil.

[Blader]

Yep I found that exact problem u were talking about the set screw in nose cone...what a pain in the butt. What I do to save a lotta aggrevation is mix up a little epoxy and fill the screw hole over. It works great and prevents any leakage,it also lasts the powerfull thrust of water over it. Then when u need access to screw just carefully chip out epoxy it comes out fairly easy,and clean..

[RAT454]

How much oil is req'd to change the pump oil and how much do you get from sea doo at $10?

[RAT454]

Regarding the procedures posted above:

During the oil inspection, you're instructed to use the Loctite#?? pipe sealant (293 800 018) to the housing cover pipe threads. But, during the pump pressurization, after everythings done it says to use loctite 592 (295 000 086) on the pipe threads.

Which one to use?

What is Loctite 592 and loctite 518? My auto parts store doesn't carry it. Also, is the pt# 293 800 018 loctite 518 or something else? The article doesn't specify it.

Thanks for any info, Tom.

[RAT454]

Ok, I guess I'm going to answer my own questions. The pump oil is $12 and will last 3 uses according to the bottle.

Loctite 518 and 515 is a flange sealant and 592 is a high performance thread sealant. I have only found the loctite 515 and 592. My local dealer (Sea Doo) doesn't carry any of it. Pt number 293 800 018 is like $28 but wasn't stocked.

I'm having a local auto parts store check to see if they can order them.

[ June 18, 2004, 08:24 PM: Message edited by: RAT454 ]

[petexp]

Grainger carry's both loctite 515 and 592. According to them 518 was discontinued and 515 is the correct replacement. You may find it online as well. I have not been able to find either at any auto supply stores.

[RAT454]

Thanks, I also found it at Grainger, but was hoping to find it a little cheaper

Also, I believe I've found the Permatex version which is pt# 51813 and part# 56521 is listed as a High performance thread sealant.

[lbrider]

Re: Changing Pump Oil

Chapparal Motorsports in socal sells the jet pump oil for $6.50 a bottle... i think you can get it online too...

[Bill O'Neal1]

Re: Changing Pump Oil

I will add it is wise to change the pump oil at the end of the riding season because if you happen to have some water in the there, you want to get it out before you store the ski and have the pump bearings get rusty during storage.

[dundeels]

Re: Changing Pump Oil

I've found the Loctite 518 at Parker Yamaha and it's reasonably priced. They don't have the 592 listed. They do have something called Threadlocker 242 from Permatex that sounds like it's for an application of this sort(oil pans, etc). I'm just concerned that this might really "Lock" these bolts in place if I were to use it. Would it be alright to use this, or should I continue to try to find the 592?

[kuhlboy76]

Re: Changing Pump Oil

i go to :

www.amarillobolt.com

for all my loctite needs.