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How do I fix my gas gauge?

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  • How do I fix my gas gauge?

    Okay I have a 96' Sea-Doo GSX, and just last year it started to have a gas gauge problem. Well the gas gauge always reads empty so I have to take the seat off to check how much gas I have left all the time. I would like some help on what to do. Also whatever parts I would need to fix the problem and how to install them too. I thank you for all the help you are able to provide. It is greatly appreciated.

  • #2
    Most likely, you have a bad sending unit. In your tank, there is a big plastic tube that both holds the sending unit at the bottom, and has fuel tubes in it - it's called the baffle, part # 275500420. The little sending units are known to go bad and the whole assembly needs to be replaced. It's easy to do, and you can find the part at www.hlsm.com for $81.32. You may also have a bad electrical connection, either at the wiring harness on the baffle, or at your gauge pod, or at your electrical box. I will post dignastics in the morning when I can get to a service manaul so you can test your sending unit.

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    • #3
      OK, here's what you do. Take your multimeter to the pink/white and pink wires coming out of the baffle at the top. You need to test for resistance, and are looking for your readings to move between 0 and 90 Ohms, moving the baffle from top to bottom. Basically, if you do not get variable readings, your sender is shot.

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      • #4
        I have had this problem 3 times on different skis.1 was the magnet had come of the float.
        2 was the float had come out. 3 was one of the components on the board in my gsxl was open circuit.
        THE FIXES
        1 USE A COAT HANGER TO FISH THE MAGNET OUT OF THE TANK ( this can take a while but patience pays) THEN GLUE IT BACK WITH ARELDITE.
        2 FISH OUT FLOAT AND RE INSTALL IN SENDER TUBE AND FIND THE BASE PLATE THAT HAS COME OFF THE END OF SENDER TUBE AND RE ATTACH BY DRILLING 3 HOLES AND CABLE TYING ON.
        3 CAREFULLY CUT OPEN SENDER TUBE , REPLACE FAULT COMPONENT THEN RE INSTALL.
        NOTE:
        I COULD NOT GET SENDER OUT OF MY GSXL WITHOUT REMOVEING THE TANK SO HERE IS WHAT I DID AND WHEN I HAD FINISHED YOU COULD NOT TELL IT HAD BEEN TOUCHED.
        ***** REMOVE FUEL TAP AND SURROUND FROM ABOVE SENDER THEN USE A HOLE SAW SMALLER THAN THE SURROUND BUT A BIT BIGGER THAB SENDER ONCE THE SEAL BOOT ISS FULLY REMOVED
        TO CUT A HOLE WHERE TAP SURROUND IS ABOVE SENDER. KEEP THE CUT PEICE . REMOVE SENDER STRAIGHT UP THRU HOLE REPAIR AND TEST THEN RE INSTALL THE GLUE PEICE BACK IN WITH LIQUID NAILS. LET SET FOR A DAY THEN RE INSTALL TAP AND SURROUND.
        ANY QUERIES EMAIL ME AT DPATTEN@OZEMAIL.COM.AU

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        • #5
          There is an easier way than cutting a hole in the hull....Remove the steering assembly from the ski, then pull the tank slightly forward, and remove/relace all you need to.... re-assemble in reverse order.
          John Kubiak
          Powersports Technical Training Professional
          Las Vegas, Nevada
          Sea-Doo Tech 13736
          PWC Tech since 1988 (22 years)
          PowerSports since 1976 (34 years)
          NEVER BUY TIRES AT A "BLOW-OUT" SALE
          Please do not use Private Messaging, use the forums.

          Comment


          • #6
            Still not working???

            Test #2, with the sender unplugged, short the wire coming from the MPEM. The fuel gauge should indicate a full tank. If not, even if you fix the sender, the gauge will not read correctly.

            If the magnet is in place and the sender still reads open circuit (no continuity and tank gauge reads empty), there may be hope for repair.

            Look into the bottom of the pickup (sender) tube. You will see a circuit board with some components. On the side that has the components on it (reed switches, etc) use a hack saw and cut a 1" square opening at the top - Just under the top lip of the pickup. Be CAREFUL not to cut into the actual fuel pickup tubes in the plastic. You may need to use a matting knife to make the vertical cuts and remove the piece.

            At the top of the sender you will see a surface mount component that is in series with the wires. More than likely it will be labled "F1." This is a fuse. Test it for continuity. If open, bridge the fuse by soldering a piece of wire across the fuse. The fuse is there to protect against static electricity. If paranoid, you can always add an external in-line fuse in the wire. (be sure to put bearing grease or silicone grease on the terminal ends to prevent corrosion.)

            Hope this helps someone!
            -[\/]ac<br /> <a href="http://www.MACSBOOST.com" target="_blank"><B>www.MACSBOOST.com</B></a> Plug in 20+HP for your Honda Turbocharged Watercraft
            <a href="http://www.TeamTweek.com" target="_blank"><B>www.TeamTweek.com</B></a> TeamTweek Watercraft Racing Forums

            Comment


            • #7
              You can take the circuit board out of the fuel baffle. Just dig all of the potted black plastic out of the top. Be careful not the cut the wires. Remove the two small nuts holding the circuit board in, and it will slide out of the bottom of the baffle. Seal the top with some silocone and good as new. I did this to my XPL two years ago because the fuse blew, and it is still going strong.

              Comment


              • #8
                I have ran a 98 gti for two years with no gas gage I will give this a try. thanks.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I just did my fuel gauge fix, found out 1 magnet fell off, and the fuse was blown.

                  So I put the magnet back in and glued it with fuel resistant glue, and I soldered over the fuse.

                  My question now is, what rating was that tiny itty bitty black fuse?
                  I would like to put an external one in, just in case.
                  Anyone have any idea?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I found a very small square magnet at the bottom of the tube. Where exactly does this magnet go? Nothing else seems to be wrong with it.

                    Edit: Nevermind. I figured it out. Thanks anyhow.

                    [ September 13, 2003, 01:49 AM: Message edited by: D-Doo ]

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Guys....i read the article for the repair to the fuel sender and thought i would give it a go on my 97 xp... hey presto it worked by cuting and soldering the f1 together just saved me 250££££, big cheesy grins all round...thanks, get sitexxx

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        i dont suppose anyone has pics of where this stuff is located. Im pretty new to the game and my gas gauge hasnt worked since i bought my ski.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          if you got a 97 xp heres the steps
                          1; remove two bolts holding the frount seat unit on there located under the frt. hatch.
                          2; pull out the bolts by pulling lightly on the handles and then spin seat round 90 degrees, you dont even have to open rear hatch and undo seat suspension, now you can get to the black rubber circle under the seat unit.
                          3; the sender unit is under the rubber boot, take cover / boot off hole this is easy just push it through, then you can see the 4 pipes going into unit, firstly get a long nose flat head screwdriver and from the frount hatch undo the 2 jubilee clips holding the unit in.
                          4; prize the sender out the tank its a bit stiff then you can get at the hoses to remove them, pls pls ensure that you make a diagram and mark up were they go, then remove the pipes and take unit out the tank.
                          5; follow the instuctions from super mac and you shud do fine!
                          hope i was of help...gud luck dont be scared and give up the job really works a treat...any probs mail me...

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: How do I fix my gas gauge?

                            I just went through this on a '95 GTS....

                            My float had come out through the bottom of the baffle. Unfortunately, it was left to rattle around for about 900 miles on the drive home. Later, when I put it back in, it would no longer "float". Apparently when the surface is scored on the float, it can absorb gas and sink.

                            Tried a couple of different things to "repair" it, no luck.

                            Finally found a new float on this guy's site www.seadoosource.com

                            This fixed my problem. It also appears as if Seadoo upgraded this part (old one was black, new one is white. OEM instructions made reference to the "old black one").

                            Thanks!!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: How do I fix my gas gauge?

                              Originally posted by SuperMAC
                              Still not working???

                              Test #2, with the sender unplugged, short the wire coming from the MPEM. The fuel gauge should indicate a full tank. If not, even if you fix the sender, the gauge will not read correctly.

                              If the magnet is in place and the sender still reads open circuit (no continuity and tank gauge reads empty), there may be hope for repair.

                              Look into the bottom of the pickup (sender) tube. You will see a circuit board with some components. On the side that has the components on it (reed switches, etc) use a hack saw and cut a 1" square opening at the top - Just under the top lip of the pickup. Be CAREFUL not to cut into the actual fuel pickup tubes in the plastic. You may need to use a matting knife to make the vertical cuts and remove the piece.

                              At the top of the sender you will see a surface mount component that is in series with the wires. More than likely it will be labled "F1." This is a fuse. Test it for continuity. If open, bridge the fuse by soldering a piece of wire across the fuse. The fuse is there to protect against static electricity. If paranoid, you can always add an external in-line fuse in the wire. (be sure to put bearing grease or silicone grease on the terminal ends to prevent corrosion.)

                              Hope this helps someone!
                              I tested my baffle and got the 0-90 ohms readings when sliding the pickup back and forth.
                              I jumpered the connector to the MPEM and the display read full tank (after pushing the start switch for my 30 second window).
                              Problem: connect baffle back up, still can't get guage to read full with magnet slid up to top of baffle.
                              What have I done wrong?
                              The guage changes state reeeaaallly slow. But it would read the jumper at full tank when the start button was hit. Tried the same with the magnet at the top of the baffle, no reading/empty tank, low fuel light.

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