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Anyone know how to repair holes in exhuast

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  • Anyone know how to repair holes in exhuast

    Have hole in exhuast on circular welds. Well a cold weld compound work on repairing these. Causing hull to fill with water
    <a href="http://www.leximotorsports.com" target="_blank">www.leximotorsports.com</a><br />606 TEAM LEXIMOTORSPORTS<br /> <br /><br />2004 RXP

  • #2
    I had a pin hole in the same place on my 97 xp.

    Depending on how big it is, you could use JB WELD..I used it and it's still holding strong after 25 hours of aggresive riding.

    But like BILL O told me, the proper way is to have it welded.

    Good Luck

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    • #3
      This happened to me as well.

      I used a hole saw to cut a piece of 3/16" aluminum the correct size. Remove the corroded piece (You will find it is very thin there) from your exhaust and clean away the paint and anything else surrounding the hole.
      Remove the piece from the exhaust using an air die grinder and go all the way to the surrounding thicker aluminum. You will have to remove the exhaust to perform this operation so use this opportunity to clean any sludge etc. from the interior. Weld your new piece on and paint the exhaust with heat paint.

      Good luck.......Tom

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      • #4
        What kind od weld, stick tig, mig. I do not want to cut a hole thre it. Yes i have relized it is very thin . Why dod seadoo put these thin circular welds there. Why did they not make a solid header pipe
        <a href="http://www.leximotorsports.com" target="_blank">www.leximotorsports.com</a><br />606 TEAM LEXIMOTORSPORTS<br /> <br /><br />2004 RXP

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        • #5
          TIG weld it.
          SBT Tech Support is here to help with your problems.
          We try to answer each question quickly and accurately.
          Please do not use Private Messaging for Tech Support, use the forums.

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          • #6
            Did sea doo have a purpose on putting these thin circular weld on the header pipe and why ?
            <a href="http://www.leximotorsports.com" target="_blank">www.leximotorsports.com</a><br />606 TEAM LEXIMOTORSPORTS<br /> <br /><br />2004 RXP

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            • #7
              They are the plugs from the casting process.
              SBT Tech Support is here to help with your problems.
              We try to answer each question quickly and accurately.
              Please do not use Private Messaging for Tech Support, use the forums.

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              • #8
                Thanks i just wanted to know the purpose of them. I thought it was an engineers bright idea
                <a href="http://www.leximotorsports.com" target="_blank">www.leximotorsports.com</a><br />606 TEAM LEXIMOTORSPORTS<br /> <br /><br />2004 RXP

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                • #9
                  Because when casting aluminum, you need to be able to pour the aluminum into the mold, and get the air out of the mold.

                  If yours is in bad shape, buy a good used non-saltwater pipe from a shop like mine. Most of us PWC shops have take-off pipes in our inventory of used parts. Deal with shops in the areas of the country that are not near an ocean, or gurantee that little or no saltwater has been run though the pipe. That just about excludes Florida and many other gulf states where ocean riding is normal.
                  Bill O'Neal WCM
                  <a href="http://www.watercraftmagic.com" target="_blank">www.watercraftmagic.com</a>

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                  • #10
                    Actually these sea doos were gave to me but come from florida. Extereior in good shape. But the saltwater took a toll on the metal. I did price header pipes and they are expensive . Whats a used one run
                    <a href="http://www.leximotorsports.com" target="_blank">www.leximotorsports.com</a><br />606 TEAM LEXIMOTORSPORTS<br /> <br /><br />2004 RXP

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                    • #11
                      I get $150.00 for a really good one.
                      Bill O'Neal WCM
                      <a href="http://www.watercraftmagic.com" target="_blank">www.watercraftmagic.com</a>

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                      • #12
                        Thats it ?
                        <a href="http://www.leximotorsports.com" target="_blank">www.leximotorsports.com</a><br />606 TEAM LEXIMOTORSPORTS<br /> <br /><br />2004 RXP

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                        • #13
                          When I was younger I worked around foundries producing castings like these using sand moulds.

                          There would be a 2 part box filled with sand except for a cavity between the 2 halves the shape of the outer surface of the exhaust pipe. Into this would be placed a tubular sand core that forms the water jacket and a solid sand core that forms the inner bore.

                          Due to the thin section of the water jacket core it is neccessary to support it and this is achieved by some supporting lugs to the outer sand mould. They also hold it in position when the metal is poured. The solid inner core is strong enough to only need support at the ends.

                          After the metal cools all the sand is vibrated out of the casting. The support lugs leave the 4 holes that are subsequently welded up during the finishing process.

                          I installed the machines that produced the sand cores. The sand which was mixed with a resin to bond it was blown into a mould with air and then either solidified by heat or passing a catalistic gas through it.

                          Hope that makes sense [img]smile.gif[/img]

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                          • #14
                            AL. sand castings can be problematic at best to tig. Here's what has worked. Try ER 4043 rod for no Mg. and ER5356 for Mg. alloys. 4043 works fine if the piece is pre heat and slow cooled. Grind to shinny appearance then scrub with Acetone. When grinding it is best to use a wheel or burr which hasn't seen anything except AL. I use Zirconiated tungsten and wash the spot with the arc. Sometimes it will take multiple passes. If it looks bad grind to shinny and wash then strike it again. If you don't weld take it to someone who does. Using JB Weld is kinda like placing bubblegum on a hole in a dam. It "might" work for a while, but it "might" fail at a bad time. JB Weld has helped many a racer in a pinch but why chance getting stuck with a reoccurring problem. One note. Keep the fellow with the MIG welder away from your ski unless he's a journeyman with a large journal of notes and a machine he has used for awhile. Mig's great for trailers and production fabrication unless he's highly skilled in thin AL castings.

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                            • #15
                              tHANKS MULE
                              <a href="http://www.leximotorsports.com" target="_blank">www.leximotorsports.com</a><br />606 TEAM LEXIMOTORSPORTS<br /> <br /><br />2004 RXP

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