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'94 - Montego - Engine Pressure Testing

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  • '94 - Montego - Engine Pressure Testing

    I just finished pressure testing my rebuilt 644cc engine [ model # PJ650-AC ]. I had a lot of trouble trying to find a engine pressure testing kit for my motor so in the end I built my own.

    Why pressure test? Pressure testing is important to make sure you don't have any disasterous leaks in your motor. Proper crank case pressure is essential to your motor's operation.

    Well I'll just replace all the gaskets. Putting a full set of new gaskets isn't enough. Pressure testing is the only way to check for improper installation [ hey I'm a hobbist, not a pro, and I need to be able to check my work ] or to uncover unseen issues like cracks in block parts or warping.

    I'm posting this for other people that might go through the same thing. Hopefully this will save someone the time and agony of to find a pressure testing kit [img]smile.gif[/img]

    So. Here goes...

    Stuff you need:

    1) Get plates made by a welding/machine shop [under the title "metal working" in the phone book usually ] to fabricate you some plates to cover the intake and exhaust ports. Cost me $25

    2) I used a portable air tank [ I had one before this test ] to pressurize the engine. When I bought it, it cost me approx. $40.

    3) Air Gauge.... Ok, what a pain this was. You think air gauge is no problem right? Wrong. Most gauges start life around 20 psi... The pressure test is for 8 psi. I found the perfect gauge at AutoZone. It is a vaccum/pressue gauge in one and costs about $30 and has a max pressure of 10 PSI. Ok it was little more then I like to spend for a gauge but I've been needing one for other projects so I bought it.

    4) Tubing. I used copper tubeing with compression fittings because I'm a freak like that and I have that stuff laying around. If you are buying from scratch just buy some black fuel line (1/4") from your local auto store its dirt cheap. You'll need a T connection in the line that send a line to... a) the block b) air tank c) gauge Tubing should cost less then < $6.00

    5) Spray bottle and dish soap... $5.00

    6) Cork or other gasket making material. Again Auto Shop $2.50

    Steps:
    1) Make gaskets for your shop plates. Knife of scissors your preference cut them to size for the plates.

    2) Assemble the hoses to the T connects and their respective ends. For the Air Tank I used a quick connect [ typically seen on Air Tools ] to connect to my Air Tank. For the gauge I used fuel line. And finally to the block [ connection to the hose stuff ]

    3) Spray connections of "the assembly" with soapy water and while holding your figure over the hole the will later goto the block slowly pressurize the line to 8psi and check for leaks.

    4) Block off the intake and exhaust ports with your fabricated plates and gaskets.

    5) Connect the assembly to the "nipple" connection [ 1/4" fuel line will connect to it ] that is above one of the reed valve housings.

    6) Slowly pressurize the motor to 8 psi [ careful not to over pressurize!! ] the motor should maintain a loss less then 1 psi per minute for 8 minutes.

    -end-

    [ May 20, 2002, 07:54 PM: Message edited by: Bear ]
    -Sebastian
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