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Diagnosis PLEASE!!!

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  • #16
    The heat sink thingy on the back of the electrical box???

    I've already replaced the entire box (CDI, coils and all) with another "used one" hoping that would help me. It didn't. Same problem.
    However, Now I'm just wondering if the "used one" could be broke in exactly the same way?
    Joe Kissell<br />-1995 Tigershark 900<br />-1986 Kawasaki 650 X2

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    • #17
      mmmm Wide open for 15 seconds, so your bouncing around and it cuts in and out?
      Try running it on the hose (idle) and shaking the wiring loom around. Ive had lots of the electrical connectors which look good but are eatin out inside (specialy if its been dunked).Ive got the same electrical failures u have so kinda guess your wirings about the same crap condition.Mine doesnt effect the running though.
      Ouch i dont envy your spark test! Check the sparkplug boots are a good connection (cut em off and redoo em) Is it 'chuffing' out the crank seals? Wigle the high tension wires around when its on the hose.Maybe they cutting in and out as you bouncing along.

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      • #18
        Thanks, I'll give that a try.

        Other things that I'm curious about:
        -Stator coils getting heat soaked.
        -Rev limiter engaging
        -Coils being bad only after heating up.

        I've heard that any of these could cause similar problems, but don't know anything about them. Info would be greatly appreciated.
        Any way I can check them?
        Joe Kissell<br />-1995 Tigershark 900<br />-1986 Kawasaki 650 X2

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        • #19
          Check you ground wire. for a test use a jumper cable between the batt - and the block.
          Also disconnect the temp sensor from the electrical box, verry easy. If the stator is getting heat soaked then while the problem is happening it should not come and go once up to temp. you can mesure resestance while the problem is present to see if there is a change.
          Does this help?
          run the boat with the choke on a little to ritchen up the high speed mixture? if so then it is a fuel problem, no enough..
          Providing mobile JetSki service to the Charlotte / Lake Wylie area.

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          • #20
            Great! Those are some good things to check!

            I don't think choking helped, but I'll double check that when I get home.

            Here is something strange that I noticed the other day while playing with the high speed adjustment screw: I couldn't get it to make a difference in the way it runs at WOT. Either fully opened or fully closed, it still ran the same!
            The number on the jets matches the numbers in the book. Would have been possible for the previous owner to have rammed them out with a close hanger to try and clean them, thus changing the size of the jet? But that would mean I'm always flooding. I don't think my problem sounds like a flooding issue. Does it?
            Joe Kissell<br />-1995 Tigershark 900<br />-1986 Kawasaki 650 X2

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            • #21
              When you say "playing around" with your high jets, do you mean at home or out on the water? Just idling and checking them will make no difference, the transition from low to high does not usually begin before 4500 rpms on the water, so on the trailer it may be 5500 rpm or more before you get a response. I think you answered your own question when you said the tachometer spun backwards. You have something crosswired. IMO.

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              • #22
                bad rectifier or very very errant ground.

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                • #23
                  Okay.
                  I got a chance to go to the lake this weekend and try it some on the water.
                  Heres what I found:
                  -Tachometer works, but only in the water for some reason? Doesn't really show anything until you get to high RPMs and then doesn't seem to go past 5000.
                  -Just by tinkering with the high speed jets I seemed to get it to run fairly well. This gave the same problem I was having before, but seemed to take more of a beating before it died!
                  Each time it died, I could choke it to help keep it alive longer. So, I figured I was starving it. But tinkering with the high speed jet even more just made things worse!

                  When this happened, I got the bright idea to adjust the low speed jets. Don't ask why, because I don't know!
                  Now I have the same problem at 1/4 to 1/3 throttle that I previously had at full throttle and I can't seem to make it go away by re-adjusting the low speed jets.

                  Any of this make sense to anyone out there? A shop verified the pop off pressure for me several weeks ago. I've verified that all the jets are the right size. Would I want to change to a different size jet?

                  I was thinking I should replace all the jets, and adjuster screws just in case they are worn/damaged. Sound like a good idea?
                  Joe Kissell<br />-1995 Tigershark 900<br />-1986 Kawasaki 650 X2

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                  • #24
                    Got another chance to hit the lake this weekend. I think I've narrowed the problem down quite a bit. Please tell me what you think.

                    The ski has a hard time accelerating. Each time I go past 1/2 throttle, the ski starts to die after a few seconds. If you do this about 5-10 times you can finally build it up to a point where it runs great and won't die at all! I skied around today for over an hour rarely going below 1/4 throttle with no problems. When I let it idle for a few minutes, all my problems come back, and the whole process starts all over again!
                    It seems like after it's idled, I've got to clear it out a bit by reving it up???

                    Does this mean my low speed area needs some adjustment? Suggestions please.
                    Joe Kissell<br />-1995 Tigershark 900<br />-1986 Kawasaki 650 X2

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                    • #25
                      Maybe when your tinkering its so far out of adjustment that your fouling plugs?
                      Are you adjusting ALL the mixture screws on ALL the carbs evenly? Have you got a clean tank of gas??
                      Check thru the old postings on this site, it has loads of info on tuning carbs.
                      gud luk

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                      • #26
                        I agree, Drain that tank and clean carbs again. Set carbs to stock settings. This should run fine. All the 900's that came off the line did not need carb ajustments to run well. They did not have any driveability problems. You could get a little more by fine tuning only.
                        Providing mobile JetSki service to the Charlotte / Lake Wylie area.

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                        • #27
                          I'm positive it's not the gas tank, as I've pulled the line and ran the motor off of a seperate tank and the problem didn't go away. As far as the carbs go, I guess double checking that everything internally would be a good place to start.

                          I've been looking at a mikuni manual in the trouble shooting section. It says that if the "Engine loads up during extended idling, i.e. in 5mph zones" then the first thing I should check is for a"Leaking anti-siphon valve" What is this and how do I check it?
                          Second thing is to check for a "Leaking needle valve." I know what these are, but how do I check for leaks?

                          Thanks so much for all the suggestions. It is really cool to have a site like this especially when I can't find any local and COMPETENT shops to take a look at it for me!
                          Joe Kissell<br />-1995 Tigershark 900<br />-1986 Kawasaki 650 X2

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                          • #28
                            OK, If you are sure it is loading up when you are at idle. Are the plugs wet after about 5 min of low speed operation no more than 20% throttle?
                            If so and you have adjusted the low speed adjusters in 1/8 of a turn at a time until they are all the way in. I would replace the nedle and seat assy.
                            You can test them on the bench with a pop off guage to see if they are leaking but this may not tell you if they are leaking when the motor is vibrating.
                            The anti sipen valve is the small plastic valve on the bottom of the bowl. you can close off the bypass with your finger and suck in "clean it first" if it is leaking you will know. This should have been replaced when you rebuilt the carbs.
                            Providing mobile JetSki service to the Charlotte / Lake Wylie area.

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                            • #29
                              You may have already gotten water in the carbs by the time you tested it with a test tank. If you find watter in carbs then drain and clean tank again.
                              Providing mobile JetSki service to the Charlotte / Lake Wylie area.

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