Over-heating Tigershark 1100 Li 1999

[dank]

You will need the software, conector for the laptop the bypass plug and the supplemental manual for the Li ski. Contact an Arctic Cat dealer to see if they can get it for you.

[dank]

Oh yea you will need a laptop running dos or win 3.11 or 95 not 98,NT,ext.

[soticgrad]

Dunno if this will help you, but it's worth a look and worth knowing for others perhaps. So, I've got a 95 Daytona....my story will get to something that you can check I promise and if you're lucky it will help.

Anyway, I got this recently for a song. The owners were very honest and let me know that it was bogging down and they didn't know why. Sound familiar? They said they had it out to the lake after just having it serviced. They had a great time, but later in the day it started to bog down for no apparent reason. They could turn it off, then turn it back on and it would run fine for a bit, then back to bogging.

That said I thought it sounded like a fuel line problem and that maybe turning it off and back on would allow a blockage to drop out. They mentioned that their mechanic thought the same when they mentioned it to him, but he hadn't looked at it since the bogging started. So...with this knowledge I of course offered them less, they took it and off I went. :D

Got back and found the SBT forum...btw, you guys ROCK...and found some mentions of the heat sensor and the craft going into limp mode, hmmm. Got it out to the lake and it ran fast for a bit and then it started bogging. Tried pulling a water line to test and suddenly it didn't bog out anymore. It took forever to spin up, but it got there. Curiouser and curiouser. I was getting a good solid piss stream, but it seemed to fit, so...I traced all the cooling lines. Not being the sharpest tool in the ski shed I went through them one at a time to see that they were flowing okay, they were but...here's the kicker. Two of them were put on BACKWARDS. Inputs into outputs so that the water pressure was working against itself. It still ran and had a good stream, but would obviously overheat and bog. Sounds like those folks need a better mechanic since he probably was the one that put them on.

Hoping I had found the grail I switched the hoses and put everything back. Started it...sounded a little better...and revved a bit while paying attention to the stream and the heat. Seemed okay, time to check it. Agonizingly slowly out through the no wake zone, seemed better but didn't want to get my hopes up, I got to that special bouy. Kicked it in and it took off much to my elation. Speedo on the ski put it at just a hair under 50, no bog whatsoever, solid stream, engine and pipes not too hot. :D

Don't know if will help but it's worth taking a look at and maybe someone else can use the info as I have used others info on this site.

[dank]

Good job finding that problem. It is hard to see something that simple since it would look like normal without paying very close attention to where the lines run.

The 1100 Li motor on the other hand would be almost impossible to conect a water line up wrong since there is only a couple of input hoses to the engine. However they may be piched or blocked.

He should get the computer hooked up and it will tell him why it went into limp mode right on the screen.

[jcjenk]

I had to make a quick trip to Germany so I dopped my skis off at my brothers to let him and a friend look at them. They replaced the oil as recommended by the tiger shark dealer and took it back to the lake.

He said he drove the ski around for about an hour and a half without ever going over 3/4 throttle and it never overheated once.

He then decided to take it WOT and raced his friend who was riding on my 96 gtx (800). The gtx was faster than the tiger shark and after about 10 minutes of this fast riding, it overheated again.

Now I am thinking that it may be running lean at high speed. Could this be a dirty fuel filter or faulty fuel pump?

The fuel filter looks clean but maybe that doesn't matter. Could these be the cause even with a fuel injected engine?

When I pick the skis up from my brothers, I will check out the water lines.

ALSO

I checked the clearance from the impellar to the wear ring and it appears to good. It is however not centered. It is almost touching on one side and maybe as wide as a couple sheets of paper on the other side. All the blades have a few dings in them but one of them is quite a bit worse than the rest. A new impellar is $230 from the dealer.

Do you think the impellar could be to blame?
Does $230 sound right?
How hard is it to replace an impellar?

What are your thought on the lean fuel mixture?

Thanks again

[dank]

There is a test for the fuel pump in the service guide. I will have to get it from the shop and post it here.

I am rebuilding two jetpumps on that same ski right now and retail is $229.00 for the impeller. That is in line with other OEM impellers.

On both of these skis the driveshaft needed to be replaced since the splines were just about wrung off.

Also If you go threw the trouble to remove the impeller change the bearings and seals when it is off. $100. The housing is $250 if the bearing exploads plus wear ring and impeller when it starts banging around. the bill for both of these is $1074.00 in parts alone.

[jcjenk]

I have decided to sell my skis. Is there any way to see how many hours have logged on the ski?

Thanks again.

[Technical Support]

A dealer with the proper computer can look it up from your skis computer.

[jcjenk]

I went out to start this ski and it wouldn't start. It has always started right up without any problems. It sounds like the starter is spinning but the motor is not. I think it may be the bendix but it sounds REALLY loud. Any ideas?

[dank]

if the starter spins and not the engine then the bendix is not working or the battery is real weak. Charge it and try again. The bendix is a pain to change in that model you have to just about pull the engine out.
Connect motor to hoist
Remove jet pump
Remove F engine mount screws and loosen R
Lift engine up until you can remove F bracket.
Remove mag cover
Wiggle bendix out past flywheel.
Reverse to reassemble.

Make sure the driveshaft is centered in the pump before you tighten engine mounts back down re-shim if needed.

[jcjenk]

Ok, the frustration level is starting to increase. The bendix was definately bad. Of course it couldn't be a low battery. I had one shop start the repair and I had another shop finish it. (the first shop had a tech go on vacation and they couldn't get it fixed for another week)

Now that the new bendix is in, the motor spins like new; however, it does not start. It spins and spins but acts like it is getting no spark or no fuel.

I verified that it is getting spark so it must be no fuel. I did replace the fuel filter just before the bendix went out so I may have introduced air into the system. Don't think this is it though.

I do not hear the fuel injectors clicking at all, not one of them. I am hoping there is a simple fix for this like disconnect the battery to "reset" everything. I don't know if there is a standard disconnect for the FI's that get disconnected before pulling a motor or not. I know the first shop was preparing to pull the motor but the second shop didn't pull it.

Any ideas? Maybe a Fuse? What is causing the FI's to not run?

Thanks Again!

-Jeff

[stevepaulus]

what kind of loud?

Could be broken teeth on the starter gear or the flywheel.

Will it crank the motor at all? even if it's in spurts.

[jcjenk]

Ok, I figured out the one of the two places busted off the oil hose from the bottom of the oil tank so it was completely empty. My theory was that it was smart enough not to start without oil. I fixed the oil tank and filled it back up with oil but it is still not starting.

It doesn't act like it even wants to try. It spins over great, I have spark to the plugs and I can see some gas going through the filter. It doesn't look like much gas though.

This thing started up every time before replacing the bendix??????

[jcjenk]

I am still confused!!! The fuel pump was only getting 7 volts. It appears my battery was going bad. I put in a new battery and the fuel pumps spits out gas like mother.

If I remove the spark plug, I get spark but there is not any fuel spitting out of the spark plug hole - shouldn't there be?

I know I am getting fuel to the Fuel Injectors so I pulled off one and turned the enging a couple of times. As I was letting go of the start button, a ton of fuel came pouring out of the injector. I always assumed the fuel sprayed like a mist but this was like turning the water on for a hose.

What am I missing? What else can I try? It is not starting!

Thanks in advance for you help!
-Jeff

[dank]

You are getting too deep... Take it to a dealer with some time working on the Tigershark FI or the Polaris FI. They both use the same system.