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ts 1oooL no start after carb rebuild

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  • ts 1oooL no start after carb rebuild

    the ski wasnt running well loading up and flooding out so i had the carbs rebuilt,after installing the carbs it wont start just cranks, sometimes it tries but never does...is this common?> could the carbs need to be set?and how ive located the low speed screw but cant find the high help!!!

  • #2
    i seem to have plenty of spark and ive even gone as far as adding fuel in the spark plug holes but still nothing it ran before the carb rebuild but not very well.......

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    • #3
      heres the latest,i bought a new compression gauge and going from front to back 62,63,60 how would all three be testing so low is it rings or is there something im not getting here?help please.....

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      • #4
        You may be low, but that gauge is way off, it would not run with those readings. Get a good gauge and try again.
        SBT Tech Support is here to help with your problems.
        We try to answer each question quickly and accurately.
        Please do not use Private Messaging for Tech Support, use the forums.

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        • #5
          thats what i thought so i got a new gauge and it came out the same then i took both gauges and tried them on my 97 spx and they both read 128-130 whats up ? the rear carb was flooding out and filling the cylinder with fuel so i got them rebuilt ,could i have was out all three cylinders buy having one filling up ,how do i remove all that fuel?or should i not stress it..

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          • #6
            o.k. i added alittle oil to the cylinders and my comression increased by 30 and then dropped after cranking a couple times so im thinking rings.so i pull the cylinders and the rings dont look that bad but i can see areas on the cylinders that apear to be shinyer like not uniform,and then i notice my crank case is full of fuel and oil, how much juice should be down there and should it be just oil or is fuel a common occerance? i think the fuel is from the flooding carb i rebuilt .......(drain plug)?

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            • #7
              Um, gauges and hoses are supposed to have schrader check valves in them - if you see the pressure actually drop, the gauge is shot. Even if adding oil produced a higher reading, it should never go down from that higher reading.
              SBT Tech Support is here to help with your problems.
              We try to answer each question quickly and accurately.
              Please do not use Private Messaging for Tech Support, use the forums.

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              • #8
                um,the gauge wouldnt drop the compression would drop after rechecking, like (add oil, check 90...remove gauge add plugs try to start ,recheck with out adding oil..60psi add oil again recheck 90psi remove gauge crank motor to remove eccess oil recheck.. 60psi )the gauge itself never dropped while sitting

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                • #9
                  When you added fuel to the cylinders. It should have fired up, even if very breifly.

                  The fuel in the bottom of your crankcase doesn't sound right to me, but I'm fairly new to this game myself. Maybe if there is a ton of liquid, it would provide extra resistance for the crank and make it harder to turn over???
                  Perhaps you could undo your oil pump, let the liquids drain, and then re-install your oil pump. It should just be two bolts. So, it shouldn't take but 5 minutes to try.

                  Other than that, it'll take a few minutes to pull fuel back through your carbs and other lines.

                  Compression sounds really low, but if it ran before...
                  Joe Kissell<br />-1995 Tigershark 900<br />-1986 Kawasaki 650 X2

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                  • #10
                    It might have been on its last leag and now after it cooled down it has lowwer compression than when it was running up to temp. sinceyou are not sure of your gauge why not take it to someone who is?
                    Providing mobile JetSki service to the Charlotte / Lake Wylie area.

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                    • #11
                      what im thinking is with the carb flooding the crank case while sitting,there was probably alot of fuel in there already and the last time i ran it i could have washed out the rings,then by the time i realised the carb problem it was to late it cooled and it was over...(does this sound right) ive got the cylinders off so i might as well replace the rings because im fairly certin of my gauge's(after testing both on my 97spx they both read 130 and held strong) but im thinking of just doing the rings now , and run it till the end of the season and then rebuild the top end and bore it and maybe some performance mods too...so if anyone has a set of rings for a 1000 L i want them.....

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                      • #12
                        I would change the rings and head gaskets while you have it off.
                        Providing mobile JetSki service to the Charlotte / Lake Wylie area.

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