As the first season owner of a Kawasaki '99 900 and a Kawasaki '00 1100 I am on the fast learning curve on the joys of jetski ownership.
The 1100 leaked profusely from day 1 and after the first over nite on the floating dock which resulted in a boat half full of water the boat has been at the dealers, now for about 2 months. I have always suspected the shaft thru hull as the culprit since goop that is supposed to seal the thru hull to the bottom of the boat was loose at the edges. The dealer has been trying to seal up the leak without removing the engine and shaft but has not yet been successful at this method.
The 900 was a dry boat from the start but suddenly sprung a major leak at the drive shaft thru hull which has led me to be a new customer of SBT. (bent piston rod)
With the engine out of the boat hopefully I have the opportunity to get a good repair on the drive shaft thru hull on this boat which incidently came completely disconnected form the bottom of the boat.
My first attempt has been to leave most of the factory goop in place as it was still attached to the thru hull fitting. I trimmed up the thin edges then applied polysulfide calk, replaced the thru hull fitting and applied pressure by wedging a towel between if and the fiberglass box above it.
Alas the fitting did not go back in the exact position as it was in originally. the fitting seems to align well with the shaft but there are gaps between the factory goop and the hull. My initial response is to apply more polysulfide to fill the gaps. The next step is to water test the hull before installing the new engine.
Can anyone relate their methods for sucessful repairs to shaft thru hull fittings??? We don't want to suck water again any time soon.:o
The 1100 leaked profusely from day 1 and after the first over nite on the floating dock which resulted in a boat half full of water the boat has been at the dealers, now for about 2 months. I have always suspected the shaft thru hull as the culprit since goop that is supposed to seal the thru hull to the bottom of the boat was loose at the edges. The dealer has been trying to seal up the leak without removing the engine and shaft but has not yet been successful at this method.
The 900 was a dry boat from the start but suddenly sprung a major leak at the drive shaft thru hull which has led me to be a new customer of SBT. (bent piston rod)
With the engine out of the boat hopefully I have the opportunity to get a good repair on the drive shaft thru hull on this boat which incidently came completely disconnected form the bottom of the boat.
My first attempt has been to leave most of the factory goop in place as it was still attached to the thru hull fitting. I trimmed up the thin edges then applied polysulfide calk, replaced the thru hull fitting and applied pressure by wedging a towel between if and the fiberglass box above it.
Alas the fitting did not go back in the exact position as it was in originally. the fitting seems to align well with the shaft but there are gaps between the factory goop and the hull. My initial response is to apply more polysulfide to fill the gaps. The next step is to water test the hull before installing the new engine.
Can anyone relate their methods for sucessful repairs to shaft thru hull fittings??? We don't want to suck water again any time soon.:o
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