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  • Cause of failure

    I returned my defective engine and have received the replacement. Do you keep track of the "reason for failure" of the defective returns? I'd like to ensure the engine didn't fail due to something else in the ski.

    Return number RG5980

    Thanks

  • #2
    The only thing we found was a stripped brass gear. Check your cover and valve for wear and clearance - they MUST be perfect. We just had a customer return his 3rd engine, all failed within 10 minutes of running, brass gear failure. I finally got to inspect his cover on the 3rd failure, and it was grooved as deeply as a record! He didn't want to replace it because he didn't want to spend the extra money.

    If your cover and valve are in proper condition, I'm not sure what happened - there was no damage, the shaft and spring was in good condition and there was no case scoring or sign of seizure.
    SBT Tech Support is here to help with your problems.
    We try to answer each question quickly and accurately.
    Please do not use Private Messaging for Tech Support, use the forums.

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    • #3
      My cover does have some scratches. Can I remove these with sand paper or should I buy a new cover?

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      • #4
        No you cannot just sand it. It needs to be remachined or replaced. We do them on exchange for $100.
        SBT Tech Support is here to help with your problems.
        We try to answer each question quickly and accurately.
        Please do not use Private Messaging for Tech Support, use the forums.

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        • #5
          Two last questions:

          In the installations instructions, there's a comment about inspecting the rotary valve cover, saying if there are minor scratches they can be sanded with 400 grit wet paper. What is considered minor scratches? If you can feel them with your fingernail are they too deep?

          Also, What's the process for getting the new cover? Do I have to send the old one in first?

          Thanks,
          Brian

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          • #6
            I you can feel it it's too much - it needs to be just like the case - perfectly smooth, no grooves. Depending on the cover you have, we may have them done onthe shelf - you need to get the part number off the cover and call in.
            SBT Tech Support is here to help with your problems.
            We try to answer each question quickly and accurately.
            Please do not use Private Messaging for Tech Support, use the forums.

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            • #7
              Thanks...I went ahead and bought a valve and cover just to be safe. Seems to be running great!

              Thanks for all the great info!......Brian

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              • #8
                Here is a good brass gear story.
                With upright motors in non explorer jetboats, if you disconnect the 1/2" rotor gear oil lines from the engine and leave them full of oil, when you re install the lines when refitting the engine, they can airlock because of the relative height of the oil tank and no oil enters the rotor gear cavity!
                You must drain the intake side oil line (highest one, and good practice anyway) so the oil can flow through the rotor gear cavity and out the return until it finds its own level.
                SBT, have you come across this? Maybe this can explain previous lack of oil brass gear failures when the customer swears there was oil in the oil tank. I know I would be dubious if an engine was returned to me with this failure, especially if installed by a non professional with oil block off fitted. I may be pessimistic,but the thought would cross my mind hat someone has done away with the entire oil system and relied solely on the premix due to lack of experience on seadoo rotary valve engines.
                I learned this one the hard way. I rebuilt a water damaged 650 speedster engine and it smoked the brass gear during the test run. I removed rotor cover and shaft and there was no oil in there! I removed the 1/2" line above the rotor face and instantly had oil gush out of the hole where the shaft goes. So, after having to replace the brass gear, shaft, gaskets etc. and having to re rebuild the crank to re centre the steel gear and replace the squashed centre seal I decided its much less hassle to purge the return line!

                [ September 08, 2003, 05:58 AM: Message edited by: Denny Moran ]

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                • #9
                  I'm not sure what you mean - I've never seen the line not fill instantly...
                  SBT Tech Support is here to help with your problems.
                  We try to answer each question quickly and accurately.
                  Please do not use Private Messaging for Tech Support, use the forums.

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