Break-in oil

[flyboy31]

I'm still running the oil pump,(just did a top end). I know i also have to premix 50:1,right? My question is, can i just use my regular seadoo injection oil to put in the tank?

[frankey01]

Re: Break-in oil

40:1 and yes.

[flyboy31]

Re: Break-in oil

Thanks Frankey.....now lets just see if i did it all right. Just kidding, that top end was cake other than getting them pain in the A@@ aftermarket circlips in. I had a special tool to get the old ones out, these didn't have any holes to open the circlip up, what a pain. BTW, are weisco pistons any good?

[frankey01]

Re: Break-in oil

I have them in my 1995 GTS rebuilt last year have heard good things about them.

[Bill O'Neal2]

Re: Break-in oil

No, Wiseco's are my last choice of pistons to use in a recreational motor. Use cast pistons. SBT sells good cast pistons that are a much better choice for less money than Wiseco's.

[frankey01]

Re: Break-in oil

Well looks like when the XP goes out which I would assume is the next one since this is still the original motor in it I wont be using wiseco pistons. I defer to Bill on this one.

[flyboy31]

Re: Break-in oil

crap guys,

Now i'm nervous, i hope this thing don't take a crap on me cause i used crummy parts. . This weekend will be the tell tail, i will be breaking it in.....you'll here from me if metal starts spewing from the front of the hull

[Bill O'Neal2]

Re: Break-in oil

I do not mean to infer that Wiseco's will "fall apart". They are a high quality lightweight forged racing piston.

My point is, You don't need a lightweight forged racing piston in a recreational ski.

To use Wiesco's is to use alot of clyinder to piston clearance to keep them from scuffing when the engine is cold. This creates a few other things that I do not like. Like pistons that rattle in the bores, especially when you first start the motor. A piston that rattles, can break the skirts off and destroy a motor.
Another problem is the machinists that are not used to boring and honing for Wiseco pistons, and the Wiseco instruction booklets in the boxes that call for a fairly tight clyinder to piston clearance, too tight if you do not take extreme cautions when warming up the motor so as not to scuff the pistons.

Have you ever seen a person jump on a cold ski and take off across the lake at warp speeds?

Why not just use an oem type piston in a recreational motor? They cost about the same, and are alot more user friendly........

[flyboy31]

Re: Break-in oil

Bill,


I was not aware of that. My machinist seemed to know what he was doing and talking about. But, after hearing this i will certainley make sure it's plenty warmed up before i jump on it and do mach speeds.

Thanks

[Bill O'Neal2]

Re: Break-in oil

If you warm up the engine real good before you hammer it, it should last for years. As the pistons get broken in more and more, it becomes less of a problem. But about then, your carb internal filters will get clogged up causing another siezure:)

[flyboy31]

Re: Break-in oil

well guys,

I think i made a big a@@ boo boo. I never got around to breaking it in this weekend, right. Well, i fired her up for the first time just to see if it was gonna start(reved it a few times), well, the engine locked up. So, i was like oh crap i broke something. I pulled the head off and looked in, pistons are intact as well as rings, and no damage to the sleeves. I finally got the engine unlocked. Does this sound like it oveerheated and seized and just had to cool down to unlock, or am i looking at a diaster if i try to fire it again. I turned it over by hand and all seems ok, and i turned it over with no plugs and nothing sounds unusuall. Did i mess up my top end or did it just overheat and expand the pistons temporarily locking the engine. at myself

[Joe Snuffy]

Re: Break-in oil

How long did you run the engine? did you put any water through it while you were running it to cool it? Just a thought do you don't think you might have left a screw in the intake manifold an it got caught in the rotary gear? I would check to see if it was damaged (still rotating?) before starting the ski again. I don't know if you inspected the crankshaft and all the bearings but I might disassemble the motor and check them before trying to restart it.

I built my first motor when I was 12 and I am 40 now. I learned from a guy who was pretty good at night vo-tech as a boy. He taught me to start a rebuilt motor and let it run about 3 mins at idle just long enough to warm the rings then let it cool down for 15 mins. Start it again let it idle for 10 mins then cool down for 30 mins then start it for 20 mins let it idle and then cool down for 40 mins. This is important to let the rings tension themselves in the cylinder. Then I do the break-in steps related to that particular engine. I am sure some folks would say its not needed or their times would vary but I have always had good luck with that and never burned a new set of rings up first time running an engine.

I used the wiseco pistons in my ski with the standard bore it came with and like Bill said they are a little noisy when I first fire it up but what I do is I run 100:1 fuel mixture along with the oil pump and that silenced the noise and it doesn't foul out my plugs. I figure oil is cheap. I used the ski all last summer and fogged it for the winter and pulled her out this week and all is good still.


Good Luck,
Joe

[flyboy31]

Re: Break-in oil

I fired it up 3-4 times reving it with no water flow for about 5 seconds each time, then it locked up, that's with no water running through it. I let it sit and i finally unlocked it after it cooled. Then i turned it over with no plugs(spark) and it turned over fine. Do i dare try to start it and let it build rpm or should i tear the thing down again? Like i said, i can't hear anything weird or out of the ordinary.

[Joe Snuffy]

Re: Break-in oil

I did read that the fuel should be pre mixed 40:1 for the initial break in and that the fuel in the lines needed to be removed since it doesn't have oil in it. Also did you coat the cylinders with some type of motor oil? You might want to put like a table spoon of 2 stroke oil down the carb throat to make sure your motor is lubricated. Also make sure you have your 2 cycle resovoir topped off. I would also wait for Bill and or SBT to answer your questions before trying to start the motor. I have built 2 sea doo motors and they both turned out nicely but I am in no way a sea doo expert just trying to be helpful. You may have spun a bearing that when a bearing is dry on the crank and you start the motor and if thats what happened if you try and start the motor the crank will lock up come apart and destroy all the new parts you put in your motor? Personally I would take the motor down and inspect the crank or have a machinist inspect it.

Joe

[flyboy31]

Re: Break-in oil

I dumped a couple tablespoons of seadoo oil down the cylinders when i had the head off and worked it in the cylinders. I just don't want to fire this thing and have a mess? What do you all think? And i am running the oil pump on top of 40:1 premix. Overheat or twisted crank? Top end i can see no damage.