SBT Jetski Engines, Parts & Accessories

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12
  1. #1
    Joined
    Jun 2001
    From
    southeastern wisconsin
    Posts
    14

    Post

    While in the process of removing to rebuild carbs went further to inspect the reed valves, found that the valve for the #1 cylinder was missing one plastic flap or door (whatever you call it). I know it is not suppose to be like that, could this be why I couldn't get a good top end, and would loose speed at WOT after ridding it for a while? What replacement valve would you recomend, i know you said before there are better one's than the stock replacement and where could I order them from. Thanks for your help.

  2. #2
    Joined
    Feb 2001
    From
    Clearwater, FL
    Posts
    7,358

    Post

    If you want to go aftermarket, I would go with Boyensen Pro Reeds. They offer a boost in performance with excellent longevity.

  3. #3
    Joined
    Jun 2001
    From
    southeastern wisconsin
    Posts
    14

    Post

    Can I just replace the stock reeds with those and no other modifications or, is there differnt carb settings that go with the pro reeds.

  4. #4
    Joined
    Feb 2001
    From
    Clearwater, FL
    Posts
    7,358

    Post

    You will need to fine tune, but nothing major, no.

  5. #5
    Joined
    Jun 2001
    From
    Troy--OH
    Posts
    422

    Post

    You should not have to do a thing except replace the reeds. They are just valves in most respects that are drawn open with pressure change in the crankcase.
    ***1100 Venture***<br />OE head mod-- by Riva Yamaha<br />Wiseco (+ .5mm)<br />True-welded crank<br />Riva F/A+ Jet kit<br />Boyeson Power reeds<br />Riva 1100 CDI<br />NGK plugs- BR8HS<br />R&D Aqua-Vein<br />Solas 14-21 Super Camber//Impros<br />Riva rideplate<br />Amsoil "AIO" @ 50:1 pre-mix, currently KLOTZ Ski-Craft<br />MOBIL-1 grease in the pump<br />Sears Diehard<br /><br /> Dream-meter shows 65---- GPS says 54.2 mph best, 9/14/02 @ 850 ft elevation

  6. #6
    Joined
    Jun 2001
    From
    southeastern wisconsin
    Posts
    14

    Post

    Thanks for your advice it is a really a big help, and you say I should go with the pro reeds and not just the power reeds by boyensen or it doesn't matter?

  7. #7
    Joined
    Feb 2001
    From
    Clearwater, FL
    Posts
    7,358

    Post

    The Pro series incorporates a dual stage design, adding a carbon fiber small petal on top of a larger outlaying fiberglass petal - it gives a boost in HP along with better throttle response, with excellent reliability. I still have a set I ran in my GP1200 for 80 hours, and they still look new. I have since switched to Delta 2 reeds, along with more mods - and yes, some reeds due to cage and reed design, require jetting and/or tuning changes. I had to go up a jet size just for the switch from Boyensen to Delta 2 reeds, and had to do slight richening from stock to Boyensen. Sometimes, you don't need to do anything, such as when you just change to a like design, but the Pro reeds are not just a replacement petal - it's a different design.

  8. #8
    Joined
    Aug 2001
    From
    Sharon, CT
    Posts
    17

    Post

    Guys I have a question that maybe someone can help me on. The guy that purchased my 95 Raider 1100 let his friend use it and something happened.
    He told me that a hose popped off and water pumped into the engine compartment and the ski died and wouldn't start. I assumed that the engine cooling/exhaust (pisser) hose came off but after looking at it yesterday it was the pulse hose that had come off. He told me that water was coming out of that and it almost filled the compartment. This made no sense to me -- isn't the pulse line just pressure to the fuel pump from the crankcase?
    After trying to get it running yesterday, it seemed to be running on only the rear cylinder. There was spark on all the plugs. I was thinking that maybe the reeds got wet and have stuck close on the front two cylinders? There is back pressure blowing through the front 2 carbs but they don't seem to be getting fuel, hense my thought about the reeds being stuck. If water filled through the case pulse fitting could the lower have water in it?

    Also after originally hearing this I told him to pull the plugs and get any water out of the cylinders, also put a little oil in them just to be safe. Maybe they put in way to much. Not sure.

    Thanks,
    Andy

  9. #9
    Joined
    Feb 2001
    From
    Clearwater, FL
    Posts
    7,358

    Post

    In the future, please start a new thread for a different subject.

    If the engine was hydrolocked, on water, fuel or oil, it's veryy possible to break reeds, which then would not give you adaquate pressure to drive the fuel pump. You need to check the reeds for damage.

  10. #10
    Joined
    Aug 2001
    From
    Sharon, CT
    Posts
    17

    Post

    I ran into details but my question was ment to be on the possiblity of a damaged reed valve.
    Sorry, I guess I should have made a new post.

    Andy

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 4
    Last Post: 05-27-2005, 10:13 AM
  2. Sd 720 Rotory Valve Question
    By sspracing in forum Sea-Doo
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 03-30-2005, 12:34 PM
  3. Bill O!,Reed Valve Question
    By 2xpl's in forum Sea-Doo
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 06-30-2003, 02:24 PM
  4. GP 800 Power Valve question
    By polaridoo in forum Yamaha
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 03-18-2002, 01:17 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •