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I very much sympathize with your situation. I can only tell you what I'd do. Firstly, I leave about 1/4 gas in my tank at the end of each season. Enough to engage the fuel sender. I do this because the octane goes to sh*t left in the ski over the winter. I don't worry about condensation building in the tank or any of that sort of thing from not having it topped up. The OEM filter traps water. BTW, I use highest pump gas at the first fill up because I make the assumption that the octane of the gas left in the tank is gone.
The primer is installed in the carbs so you probably don't want to go there. Each carb has a fuel filter in it as well. I'm sure the dealer cleaned those. They are only serviceable by removing the carbs. Mikuni could have come up with something more serviceable, IMO.
The following is simple and you can do it yourself;
Firstly, determine if the dealer replaced the OEM fuel filter. It sits in at the very front centre of the engine compartment high up under the ridge where the seat attaches. They are not cheap, but if in doubt, change them. You can do this yourself. Pry it off the rubber holder. If the 6mm fuel line is stuck on, cut the hose as close as possible. There is plenty of hose.
Find those FRAM filters I mentioned and install them just after the OEM unit. Cut the line say 3 inches (or where you think they won't be a problem) from the OEM unit on the right side of the OEM unit. The side that leds to the carbs. Install with some ties. There is an arrow on the FRAM. Arrow points to the engine.
They are 2 or 3 bucks. Buy a bunch. In your case in Texas, I'd say replace twice in the season.
The above is my opinion. That's what I would do to eliminate any crap from entering your fuel system from now on.
BTW, when you added fuel stabl. before the problem, did you run the ski for at least 5 minutes in order that the stabilzer first mix with the gas and then make it's way into each carbs? That would probably take 5 minutes on the lake to be sure.
97 GP1200/99 XPL<br />Head, intake and handling mods on both
You don't want to do that. You risk the vapors that are now outside the flame arrestor screens igniting. That's the whole point of the flame arrestor. The best manual way is to add a teaspoon of gas into the plug holes, if you don't want to use a primer.
After adding the stabilizer in the tank,
I hooked up the flush and ran it for around
15 minutes out of the water.
Thanks again for everyones input. This is a
great place to learn somthing NEW.
I noticed nobody beat me up for not using SBT
for my rebuilds. If I would have known about
this place then, I would have used them. Live
and learn. Life is an experience..........
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