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  • XL 1200 -Won't Start

    Hello Gentlemen,

    I just purchased a 99 XL 1200 3 seater about a month ago from the original adult owner. The ski has 23 hours on it, like NEW, and the battery was dead, previous owner lost owners manual. The former owner told me that it was ALWAYS hard to start since new, but that once started and warm, no problems. I replaced the battery, and it WON'T START. Turns over great, but no gas is getting to the cylinders, and/or (my guess is) the choke is not set to provide sufficient enrichment (causing the always hard to start condition). I can see NO WAY to squirt some gas into the combustion chamber, or to prime the engine. It looks as if the huge exhaust pipe must be removed to get at the carburetors. If there is a way to easily prime this engine, I would like to know about it. Would it be worth my while to purchase the service manual from Yamaha ($60)? Or should I just take the ski to the local $100 per hour shop for service? While I am not a professional mechanic, I am competent and do most of my own work.

    Any tips would be appreciated.

    Semper Fi, USMCDAD

  • #2
    OK, I've read all the "hard to start" threads about the Yamaha 1200 motor. It sounds as if I need to drain the fuel, remove the carburetors and clean them, and install a primer kit from Parker Yamaha. I probably could do all this myself, but it would take me two or three days to do the job, and then I would have doubts as to having done the primer installation correctly. -Will my dealer be knowledgeable about this primer fix for this engine? What should removing, cleaning, and replacing the carburetors, then installing the primer kit cost? The engine has a choke (or maybe it is a primer?) push-pull plunger located on the left stearing cowling, but without an owners manual, I don't know if its an aftermarket installation, or if it is a CHOKE. If it is a choke, it won't stay in position without holding it open with one hand, and pressing the start button with the other hand. Then to manipulate the throttle I need another hand, 0r person. I would appreciate hearing from anyone on how to get this ski ready for the water.

    Cost is an issue, and I can appreciate what the one poster said about his wife wanting to sell the skis while they were running good. My wife would be of the same opinion if these things suffer costly repairs. I ditto the comments about motorcycles. I have left them sit all year, and they start right up. Jet skis seem to be a whole 'nother animal. Maybe the new 4 stroke jet skis will be more reliable, but who can afford $10,000 for a jet ski you can only use 3 months out of the year, at most??

    I quit riding motorcycles after having a bad accident about 15 years ago. It don't hurt nearly as bad when you crash in the water. AMEN.

    Semper Fi, USMCDAD

    Comment


    • #3
      P.S. -My ski is the XL 1200 LIMITED (the three person ski). Is it necessary to remove the expansion chamber exhaust to get at the carbs? Are there two, or three carbs?

      Comment


      • #4
        Sea Doo Tech,

        <<UGG!!!>>

        Maybe I should sell these and go back to boating?

        I"m looking for a good shop in Indiana, if anyone knows of one other than Dreyer Yamaha ($100/hr).

        Thanks.

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        • #5
          SeaDooTech, would the 2000 XL 1200 fall into that category as well? I am thinking of buying one with 40 hours on it. Should I buy a Seadoo instead if there are reliability issues?

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          • #6
            Hold on guys...

            SDT you are thinking of the old 1200, he has the new.

            USMCDAD - you do not have any of the hard-start problems descussed in the threads you have read regarding the old 1200 and it's pop-off pressure or choke plates.

            You do NOT need a primer at this point, since you already have a good one built into your carbs in the form of your accellerator pump. 2-3 squeezes of the throttle is all it takes to prime your carbs before starting.

            You should start it holding the throttle at 1/2 throttle, after giving it a couple full pumps. Pull the choke and crank it for 5-7 seconds. If it fails to start, let it sit for a minute to let the starter cool and try again.

            If it still fails to start, then you may have a carb or fuel system problem.

            Take the plugs out and pour a teaspoon of gas into the cylinders. Replace the plugs and try again. Assuming you don't have a compression or ignition problem, it will at least start and run for a second or two at this point. Try starting again and if it still fails to start normally then we can dignose further.

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            • #7
              HOT **** , MR. GLENN!!!!!!!!!

              The thought of doing just what you said was in the back of my mind, but I just couldn't bring it forward. (must be the age factor coming in to play). I kept thinking as I read all the posts about hard starting at 0400 this morning that there had to be a way to inject gasoline
              (Klotz pre-mix @50-1 of course!) into the cylinders other than taking the plugs out and doing it that way. I took a trouble light and looked at the engine for the better part of an hour looking for the "fogging oil injection" ports, plugs, or lines. A case of being unable to see the forest for the trees, no doubt. I probably would have eventually thought of removing the plugs and pouring in a little gas before taking it to the dealer, but sometimes the obvious is just sooooo easy to overlook.

              At any rate, as you suggested, I put about a tablespoon of premix into each cylinder, replaced the 23 hr plugs with a new set, pulled the choke out and held it there with a set of vice-grips, pulled the throttle twice, held it half way open, and hit the starter. VOI-*******-LA!!! It started the INSTANT I hit the starter button. It idled good for about 15 seconds, then began to get over rich, filling the garage with white 2-stroke smoke. I shut the engine off, released the vice grips, hit the starter again, and it fired right up, running like I expected a new motor to run. I was able to re-start it afterwards 5 or 6 times with absolutely no trouble. I will be sure to take a small squirt bottle with me in the tool box for initial starting when I go to the lake. I don't think I will have any more trouble getting it started. I still plan on draining the gas and installing new before venturing out.

              You just don't know how much I appreciate your insightful tip about this. Hopefully with these forums available, the dealers will have to get really knowledgeable mechanics to do the work us under than $100 per hour working people aren't able to do on our own. Then if we do have a problem we can't fix ourselves, we can depend on them to do the job right, which is not always the case now.

              Semper Fi,

              USMCDAD@Att.net

              Comment


              • #8
                Oh, BTW BRYAN,

                You stated that my motor was the "new" rather than the "old" 1200.

                Does the Yamaha Service Bulletin about the power valve coming apart and destroying the motor apply to this motor? Do I need to update and upgrade these items in order to avoid these problems, or has this engine been OK??

                Thanks again,

                USMCDAD@Att.net

                Comment


                • #9
                  USMCDAD
                  another way to do it is this. Pull the choke out and then give it a twist. it will stay closed.
                  now hit the starter a few times. stop cranking. untwist the choke and push it back in then try to start it.
                  But like Brian said. all you need is to squeeze the throttle a few tiems. the accelerator pumps gas in the intake manifold and you shoudl be able to start the ski without having to use the choke
                  Rob

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                  • #10
                    What about his power valve question?

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                    • #11
                      You have a mid production ski, and definitely don't have the newest -03 revision powervalves installed. You would be effected by the update.

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                      • #12
                        Bryan, would a 2000 xl 2000 be affected and if I bought the valves from R&D and took to a shop, how many hours do you think it would take to do the work?

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                        • #13
                          2000 would be effected, yes. I can only guess as to a shop time for valve replacement - I would guess a couple hours

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                          • #14
                            I also have a 2000 1200XL that is difficult to start. Just bought it used last week. I am going to try the above suggestion.

                            Regarding the power valve problem, it sounds like a design problem from the postings that I have read. Does Yamaha have in plans in place to cover this problem for current owners of the XL's?
                            Should I get mine replaced? How much are the parts? Where can I buy, and who can do the work?

                            I am new to this sport(as of last weekend) and really don't know anything about the technical aspects.
                            Thanks for your help.
                            Gary

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                            • #15
                              Bryan, are the 2001 or 2002 XLT 1200's affected?
                              What about the GP's? Which boats have the 03 already in them?

                              Someone at r&d gave me these numbers for the valve update

                              qty 3 of 66e-11315-03-00
                              qty 3 of 90110-05008-00

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