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94 Slt 750

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  • #16
    Re: 94 Slt 750

    let me see if i can give you my opinion.first off dont go riding it anymore until you get it runing good on the hose.2 turn on idle mix is way off. high speed poor ,all your going to do is burn up an engine. need to get your fuel problems fixed before winging parts like stator cdi etc. did engine run without these problems before you swaped it out. lets say pull the carbs,pull the intake and reeds.cheek reeds for fraying on the edges and for fitment. gaskets are thin so i like to use spray tack,spray adhesive in a can or even silver spray paint to help them seal. leave th intake manifold off untile your done with the carbs.then loosley bolt the carbs to the intake install the covers on the back of the carbs with the support brackets. the manifold keeps everthing in alignment.if everthing looks good and not in a bind tighten the cover screws, snug the carbs onto the intake a little. now you can go through and sync the butterflies for throttle and choke. remove the carbs from intake, install intake on eng then reinstall carbs with gaskets. i forgot some stuff. you need to check your fuel filter in the back of each carb while the covers are off, check needle and seat control arm adj.make sure your needle and seats are of correct size. ibelieve 2.0 is correct. check pop off before and after you install metering diaphrams. use wd-40 0n needle and seat .it will help you get a better reading. you dont want carbs that dribble at idle are needles that dont open properly. you will need to do this before you put your hoses on the back of the carbs. use your fingers to block the fuel nipples that are open.while checking pop off. check all your jets to make sure they are completly open. i spray through them blow air through them then look through them to see if there is a complete circle of light. polaris had an airbox update which included biger main jets.i believe they went from 90 to a 102.5 main jet. th restrictor is in the return hose held in place with a zip tie about an inch in from the end. a pop off gauge is really quite handy.takes a lot of guess work out of the rebuild. dont bother about the bore size it wont cause the problems your having.sbt has pressure tested the engine, so that should be ruled out also. install new plugs of the correct number. and try again.good luck.

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    • #17
      Re: 94 Slt 750

      *UPDATE*

      I have been working on this ski for awhile now and I still have the same issues. I have replaced the Stator, CDI, Plugs, Coils, checked timing, installed 780 fuel pump, rebuilt carbs AGAIN and no change. I have been beaten by my first ski!! :emoticonr Does anyone have a clue what the problem is? Everything is within specs and the fuel is flowing on all 3 carbs. I don't want to give up but it looks as though I will be returning a ski that isn't finished!

      Scott
      Last edited by rsjohnsn1; 08-25-2005, 04:35 PM. Reason: Wrong smilie

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      • #18
        Re: 94 Slt 750

        Have You Checked The Timing? And The Diaphrams In The Carbs Have Been Replaced?

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        • #19
          Re: 94 Slt 750

          Is your fuel return line restrictor in place?
          Item #12
          http://www.partsland.com/index.cgi?N...50-FUEL-SYSTEM

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          • #20
            Re: 94 Slt 750

            Not sure about the restrictor but the diaphrams have been changed and timing is correct. What size is this restrictor?

            Thanks
            Scott

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            • #21
              Re: 94 Slt 750

              Aprox the size of a main jet. This restrictor is what creates the fuel pressure for the carburetors. With out it you will not have enough fuel pressure.

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              • #22
                Re: 94 Slt 750

                check your one way air check valve at the fuel tank. if that air check valve is some what clogged or not working properly it will starve the carburetors of fuel. bog, bog, bog, bog, rough idle, lean spark plugs. the purpose of the air check valve is to replace the fuel in the gas tank with air as the fuel is being drawn by the fuel pump and or carbs. you'll get airlock in other words. fuel wont be drawn to the fuel pump or carbs if this air check valve is somewhat clogged or defective. i installed on my ski's 2 of them. your friendly neighborhood auto parts store has them.

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