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  • Winterization, Fogging, and Antifreeze ???

    I researched this and read the forums for at least an hour before posting this, so please don't say all this was covered before, because I couldn't find this stuff specifically...

    FUEL

    How long, in minutes, at idle speed, would it take to get stabilizer into the carbs?

    FLUSHING

    Riva says to flush with "salt away" first. Is that important and can I get salt away locally?

    Riva says that it's very important to get an antifreeze that doesn't damage the aluminum and the gaskets over time. Do I need antifreeze in a GP1200? I hear only some Sea Doo's need it? It goes well below freezing here and the craft will be outside in a tent garage. If I do need it, exactly how do I run antifreeze into the system, and what kind should I use? Is there a special tool to run antifreeze into the flush kit under pressure? After running antifreeze in, should I be hitting the throttle to blow out excess water as usual after a normal flush during the riding season?

    FOGGING

    I'm sooooo confused about fogging. Yamaha's instructions in their manual says to fog for several minutes with the engine running until the engine bogs and shuts off. I was never able to get an engine to bog off like that when i've tried fogging in the past. Riva says to fog the carbs with the engine running (they didn't say for how long), then spray for 1-2 seconds into each cylinder with fogging oil and bump the starter a few times. Others say to bump the starter but to pour an ounce of two cycle oil into each cylider instead of using fogging oil.

    Does it matter if you bump the starter with the new spark plugs installed or not installed?

    I took this quote from the winterization post from SBT:

    "After fogging is complete, put 1oz of two-stroke oil into each spark plug hole and bump the motor over a few times.

    After you finish the fogging procedure, shut off the hose water, blip the throttle a couple times and shut the motor off."

    Is this a mistake in the post? Basically, should the second sentence have been first, and then the first sentence?

    *** Is this method of fogging the carbs with the engine running and then bumping the starter with oil poured into the spark plug holes preferred over trying to fog the engine for 2-5 minutes or so with the engine running? ***

    I would really appreciate it if someone could clarify these issues! I can't find anyone nearby (Hatboro, PA 19040) that I can trust to winterize this year, so it looks like i'll have to find the time somehow to do it myself this year.
    Thank You,

    Lee B.

  • #2
    Re: Winterization, Fogging, and Antifreeze ???

    I take one thing back, the owner's manual says to fog the engine until it stalls, or 15 seconds max, then to pour oil into the cylinders and do nothing else.

    L.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Winterization, Fogging, and Antifreeze ???

      be sure to shut off water first , blip throttle a couple of times( to blow water out of exhaust) then shut down after fogging. then its a matter of preference i like to pull plugs squirt in a little oil, crank motor and replace plugs then pull exhaust hose from waterbox and pour antifreeze(RV type) into hose be cause water sits in muffler and hose(650 VXR)
      Harv:emotisun

      also salt away or other salt rinse is avail at any marine store i think even wal mart sells it around here.
      Last edited by harveynailbanger; 11-16-2005, 08:35 AM. Reason: I forgot
      drive it like you stole it

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      • #4
        Re: Winterization, Fogging, and Antifreeze ???

        Mine wouldn't shut down while fogging either. What i do is remove the top of the airbox and arrestor screens, and sweep the fogging can back and forth quickly over the carbs. You need to make sure that the fogger is going down the side of the carbs where the throttle butterfly is open. It should stall out then. Pull the plugs, pour in some oil and bump it. install plugs.

        Antifreeze is a hot debate. I personally don't use it, and my Owners manual says nothing about it. Basically, if you perform the flush and blip procedure correctly, there will not be enough water left inside to cause any damage.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Winterization, Fogging, and Antifreeze ???

          I am a little confused on the fogging issue myself. I have a 2005 VX110 and just completed my winterization this past weekend. I sprayed fogging oil into the intake per the Yamaha instruction manual...which stated that I spray the fogging oil into the intake for 3 seconds with the engine off, then start the engine and let it idle for 15 seconds. I have a friend that I consider to be pretty knowledgeable about marine engines and he says that when he winterizes his boat engine he starts it up and sprays the fogging oil into the intake until it chokes down. Should I fog my engine again while running and try to choke it down...or should I just leave it as is knowing that I followed the instruction manual?

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Winterization, Fogging, and Antifreeze ???

            I talked to three shops in the Philly area today. One said $89.95, the other two said $150, and $165! Yikes! I think that is really excessive, over $100 for winterization.

            I went to Wal-Mart, Nationial Auto, Auto Zone, Pep-Boys, and a motorcycle shop, and still could not find a can of fogging oil! National had some, but they were sold out.

            I think i'm going to have to order stuff from Riva. I can't be driving all around Philly looking for these things!

            I still don't understand if I need to gravity feed antifreeze into the ski and what kinds of antifreeze won't damage the aluminum or the gaskets. The Prestone says "protects aluminum parts."

            What is this RV antifreeze? I saw some of that at National Auto.

            Do I need salt away?

            More questions than answers here right now! I did manage to stabilize 15 gallons of fuel in three gas cans and run it into the carbs/fuel system, so i'm at least moving forward and had the ski running...

            Lee B.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Winterization, Fogging, and Antifreeze ???

              most marinas have fogging oil. there has got to be a marina in philly somewhere. antifreeze is not required, just personal preference.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Winterization, Fogging, and Antifreeze ???

                I'm starting to like Riva's winterization instructions more and more, and it makes perfect sense to me now.

                I found a lot of the chemicals needed on amazon.com tonight.

                Part of the value of the antifreeze, a large part, is not the freeze protection but the protection from corrosion and rust during the layup.

                Getting the drill pump and pumping it in there is clearly looking like the way to go. I just need to decide what AF is best and safe to pump in there. I read that 1fastski likes the pink RV stuff, but it seems it doesn't offer the best corrosion protection.

                This link was very interesting... read the part about if it's a liquid and it's not poisonous, it doesn't work right. I don't know if it's true, but he sure sounds convinced...

                http://www.boatered.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=76724

                Once it's pumped in there, you only have to fog the engine for 15 seconds or so, and then pour oil into the cylinders and bump the starter a few times. It's really simple.

                *** What do other people use to protect exposed surfaces? Yamaha silicon protectant, or something else? ***

                I can't see why anyone would say not to use antifreeze, once you understand it's adding to your layup corrosion protection. If this wasn't important, I doubt Riva would recommend such an aggressive flush procedure, starting with "salt away" and ending with AF...

                Lee B.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Winterization, Fogging, and Antifreeze ???

                  Aluminum (your engine) doesn't rust. Salt-Away gives you more corrosion protection than you would ever need, and more than antifreeze would provide in the first place (from mineral deposits, the only thing that effects the cooling systems).

                  You can follow any procedure you like - but the bottom line is:

                  The water simply does not pool in the system. Adding antifreeze does absolutley nothing for your engine. During normal storage, there is a tiny bit of water left in the waterbox, and it's not enough to do any kind of damage, simple as that. Sea-Doo's require it because they have different cooling routings and passages than the other OEMs, and there IS water left in the engine.
                  Last edited by Ericka-SBT; 11-18-2008, 04:12 PM.
                  SBT Tech Support is here to help with your problems.
                  We try to answer each question quickly and accurately.
                  Please do not use Private Messaging for Tech Support, use the forums.

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