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Overheating issue revisisted.. input from TS?

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  • #31
    Re: Overheating issue revisisted.. input from TS?

    Actually I think it has a lot to do with your anti-SBT comments on your board.


    So why did you register with a different name over here?
    SBT Tech Support is here to help with your problems.
    We try to answer each question quickly and accurately.
    Please do not use Private Messaging for Tech Support, use the forums.

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    • #32
      Re: Overheating issue revisisted.. input from TS?

      Originally posted by Technical Support
      Actually I think it has a lot to do with your anti-SBT comments on your board.

      What anti SBT comments have I made?

      So why did you register with a different name over here?
      Actually I tried to use my name but your auto registration said my e-mail adress was already taken by PWCBOY (my son) so I guess PWCBOY it is. Maybe you guys should allow for a couple of names from the same IP and or e-mail??

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      • #33
        Re: Overheating issue revisisted.. input from TS?

        I can't bring up the posts since you guys switched software - 3 character searches are no longer allowed.
        SBT Tech Support is here to help with your problems.
        We try to answer each question quickly and accurately.
        Please do not use Private Messaging for Tech Support, use the forums.

        Comment


        • #34
          Re: Overheating issue revisisted.. input from TS?

          Question. Does this model Polaris have the thermostat in it like a few of the other Polaris models?
          Bill O'Neal <br>
          WCM
          <a href="http://www.watercraftmagic.com"

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          • #35
            Re: Overheating issue revisisted.. input from TS?

            In your earlier posts you said you had to change the plug gap from .025 to .020 to get it to run decent, ever find out why? Just wondering if your whole problem may be an electrical issue, or if your timing is advanced which could make it run warmer and detonate at high RPM's and changing the gap smaller could improve the detonation, but still timing would be off., I have a SL900 and had a smilar problem with it not running at higher RPM's before, We talked (posted each other) along time ago on it.

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            • #36
              Re: Overheating issue revisisted.. input from TS?

              Bill -> yes, it does.. even though I removed the thermostat after the "hot" issue started and checked to make sure it was opening at the proper temp ~140ish*, I have been running w/o it anyways since it's really not necessary.

              Jbinn, yes, that's still the case and I'm troubleshooting that at the same time. The stator has had it's hall effect sensors replaced by jet ski solutions as well as a fresh harness.. the exciter coil tested fine so that's as is for now. I'm looking into coil testing and if that doesn't work out, looking into the CDI. Thing is, my old motor ran fine with the .020 plug gap, basically, I made no tuning or electrical changes b/w engine swaps, the HOT conditition started immediately during my break-in of the new engine (during the up to 90% throttle period of break in) with no other changes. I haven't messed with the timing at all on this motor.. so the screws on the magnet are untouched by me.. not sure if anyone else has ever messed with them before me.

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              • #37
                Re: Overheating issue revisisted.. input from TS?

                Using a brass bushing in place of the thermostat and a mechanical water temp guage sending unit and a water temp guage, you could know exactly how warm the engine is getting. You can buy them from any auto parts or boat store.

                Here a good one for you. I once had a Sea Doo in here that overheated. After spending a bunch of time trouble shooting the cooling system, I found a dead bug inside of the water exit barbed fitting at the exhaust thru hull fitting where the water exits the boat. It was blocking almost all of the water flow out of the ski.
                Bill O'Neal <br>
                WCM
                <a href="http://www.watercraftmagic.com"

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                • #38
                  Re: Overheating issue revisisted.. input from TS?

                  do you have specs on the resistance readings for the temp sensor can you test that? I don't know if you have a DVOM or have access to one.

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                  • #39
                    Re: Overheating issue revisisted.. input from TS?

                    Does it over heat on a stand? with a hose hooked up of course, Back to Bill's comment I have seen that too restricing water flow from seaweed or fungus on a few ski's

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                    • #40
                      Re: Overheating issue revisisted.. input from TS?

                      Bill, if I stick a brass bushing in place of the thermostat won't I block all water flow through the cooling bar exit? Would the mechanical temp unit hook up to the hose for the water outlet? I've attached a pic of where the thermostat would be.. the popoff is on the right, thermo has been removed on the left..

                      jbfinn.. yes, the temp sensor has been tested.. I believe the resistance reading was .4 ohms (not active it is at infiniti) once the sensor got warmed up to 160* verified by a digital thermo. does not overheat on the trailer w/ the hose connected.. i mean, it could, but honestly I never keep the revs up long enough like I would on the actual water to make it overheat...

                      AFAIK I've gone through all the hoses and also gone through the inlet.. I've taken a hose and literally pushed water out though the inlet hose and it flows very freely out the inlet screen in the pump.
                      Attached Files

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                      • #41
                        Re: Overheating issue revisisted.. input from TS?

                        Yeah I would think hooking it up to where you flush it would be perfect. The temps you said earlier don't seem that hot, seems warm but not hot but those aren't the most accurate.

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                        • #42
                          Re: Overheating issue revisisted.. input from TS?

                          O.K. I'll take John's side for a moment and go on the basis it's not overheating (although I don't agree with his defenition of a running HOT engine)

                          What you guys should be asking is does the engine limit at 4200 RPM's when the HOT displays and the LED activates? Is this craft actually limiting and not losing spark with the larger gap? I mean is the LR54 being activated and cutting spark at 4200RPM? Remember it will not reset until the cooling condition is corrected AND the RPM's are brought below 4200 RPM's. So let's fool the LR54 for a moment and cut it's limiting factor (temp sensor).

                          Javier a real quick test for you. Disconnect the temp sensor so that it can't ground the LR54 and cut spark to the CDI. Gap the plugs back at .028 and take her for a ride, does the engine now run with no poor idle/cut out or whatever it was doing? Do you any longer have a HOT signal or flashing LED lamp?

                          Have you put a temp strip on the cooling bar (near the temp sensor) and see if it reads as the sensor does? Is the engine water actually hot enough to trip the sensor?

                          Back to me again, what is the max temp of the temp strip 190?? If so and you say the strip is reading betwen 180 and 190 maybe it's actually much hotter than the strip shows and a higher reading strip is needed?

                          Just some food for thought.

                          Maybe I'll have to take a trip to Disney and come your way. LOL

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                          • #43
                            Re: Overheating issue revisisted.. input from TS?

                            They stopped using the LR54 cutoff in the 96 SL900 from what I've read. My '97 doesn't go into limp-home when the HOT sensor goes off... I can keep the thing full pegged at 6350 with the HOT lamp blaring at my face. If I gap the plugs at .025 or larger, the thing won't get over the stumbles and I can't get it to rev high enough to set off the HOT warning. The HOT lamp *only* comes on when I'm running at least 85-90% throttle for about 15 seconds or more. A few seconds after I let off the throttle the lamp turns off.

                            The temp strips you sent me hit 190*.. I said b/w 180-190 b/c only part of the 190* square is filled out.. but on that note, you could be right.. it might be getting even hotter than that.

                            And yes, please do drop by Disney and come visit :D

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                            • #44
                              Re: Overheating issue revisisted.. input from TS?

                              I don't know why I thought yours was a 96, I guess looking at the picture would have been too hard, LOL.

                              I guess forget my last post. My brother is actually on the Turks and Caicos islands and I have two freinds that moved to Florida..............maybe it's time for a visit, hmmnnnnn

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                              • #45
                                Re: Overheating issue revisisted.. input from TS?

                                You know what? Still disconnect the temp sensor and see what happens when you increase the gap, I remember there is a diode that goes inbetween the sensor and CDI, see what happens.
                                The 97 Domestic engine protection circuit retards timing by roughly 10 percent, that is why I asked if you lose power when the temp sensor lights.

                                Also, one other thing changed when you removed the engine, you removed the pump assembly, so maybe check the coolant flow, I usually place the boat on the trailer and do this test with the craft tied down. Leave the water outlet exposed.

                                At 1250-1300 RPM's there should be a trickle of water at the out line (at the thru hull fitting)
                                At 2800+RPM's you should see full dischage.

                                If either of these seem weak I'd check the O ring that connects the water pipe from the front pump housing to the nozzle assembly. Could be a broken, damaged or not properly sealing O ring.

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