power valve

[macz100]

i have a 1999 xl1200 limited , stock .
upon inspection of power valves i noticed the #2 valve was stuck , full of oil residue , i can manually move it up and down . i want to take all 3 of them out and clean them. can anyone give me instructions on the best way to take them out and clean them. i also plan to install a set of wave eaters.

[SteveCarb]

Re: power valve

Check this out.

Powervalve Removal and Replacement

This installation is to be performed at your own risk!!!!

Here is a basic list of tools and parts you will need:

• New powervalve cover gaskets
  
• New oil seals
  
• New circlips
  
• WD40
  
• Removable thread locker
  
• Socket wrench
  
• Extension
  
• Flathead screwdriver
  
• Circlip or Needlenose pliers
  
• 10 mm socket
  
• 14 mm socket
  
• 3 mm hex key
  
• 4 mm hex key
  

Whenever you do work on a ski it is good practice to bag and tag the pieces and bolts/nuts/washers that you take off. I use zip lock bags and a Sharpie marker. It is always a good idea to disconnect your battery before you do any of the work to your ski. Here we go:

First of all, remove your Stinger.

Secondly, you need to remove your exhaust chamber.

1.) Remove the two 10 mm bolts that secure the powervalve cables braket to the powervalve cover. DO NOT loosen the cables up. If you just remove these bolts and slide the bracket back you will be able to disengage the cables from Shaft No. 3 and you won't have to worry about too much adjustment later if any. Next remove the other two bolts, the cover, and the gasket. Take a good look at the assembly so you know how it goes back together. Remove the 3 mm bolt that secures the valve arm to the shaft.

2.) Remove the 4 mm bolt that holds the powervalve assembly in place. This is located towards the top and is difficult to see and feel depending on how much of that Yamalube crap was run through the engine as you can see on this person's ski.

3.) Remove the rear bracket that the Stinger bolts to so you can slide out the shaft later. The screwdriver is pointing at the top of this bracket.

4.) Remove the coupler spacer and the coupler. After you remove the spacer you can slide the coupler towards the front of the ski and then lift up and remove. Remove the circlip by pulling on it with a pair of needlenose pliers or if you have some circlip pliers use those. The screwdriver is pointing at the circlip in the third pic below.

5.) Remove the number 3 shaft (the one with the wheel) by pulling towards the back of the ski. There is a washer located where the circlip used to be. Be careful not to lose that washer while pulling out the shaft. There are a total of five circlips and five washers for all of the powervalves. NOTE WHERE THEY ARE LOCATED! Pull out the powervalve assembly and NOTE WHICH WAY IT COMES OUT. YOU WILL HAVE TO PUT THE NEW ONES IN THE SAME WAY! There is only one correct way for the powervalve to fit in since the "blade" is beveled.

6.) Repeat with the other two powervalves. You can pull the number 1 shaft out towards the front. You can also keep that circlip on if you want but if you have the extra circlips go ahead and replace it anyway. The number 2 shaft will have to be fed either through the front or the back. It can be a challenge to get it out. You can put a skinny screwdriver through the front or the back and tap it in either direction to get it all the way out. Make sure you know which shaft goes where and the correct way it faces. The notches in the ends of the shafts are different and need to be returned to their original positions. BE CAREFUL NOT TO SCAR UP OR BEND THE SHAFTS IN ANY WAY.

7.) Pull out the old oil seals with a flathead screwdriver. Be careful not to damage the mating surfaces for the seals.

8.) You can now clean up some of the goop that the Yamalube creates. There is not too much you can do about any sticking problems at this point unless you pull each cylinder case and clean thoroughly. If you just clean without doing the above you risk dropping trash down into the cylinders. That would not be good. If you do decide to clean a little be very careful.

9.) Place and secure a new powervalve assembly using removable thread locker on the 4 mm hex bolt that holds the assembly in place. You can put a little grease on the tip of the hex key to hold the bolt on while you are lining up to screw it down. Torque to 2.9 ft. lbs. Repeat with other two powervalve assemblies. The R & D powervalves are a really nice solid billet construction and are pretty sweet looking but are a little pricey.

10.) Clean out the places where the old oil seals were located and press in the new oil seals in the first and middle powervalve casings but not the third one towards the rear of the ski. Make sure they seat flush and go all the way in the hole.

11.) Clean the Number 1 shaft that goes towards the front of the ski. I use a bench grinder with a wire wheel to smooth out the surface. Place the washer you removed earlier and a new circlip on the end. Lube it up a little with WD40 so it slides easily through the new oil seals. Place the powervalve valve arm in position before putting the shaft all the way through. You will now have to match up the hole on the shaft and the hole on the valve arm. Once the holes are matched up secure it with the 3 mm screw you removed earlier. Remember to use thread locker and you can put a little grease on the tip of the hex key to hold the screw while you are lining it up. Torque to 2.2 ft. lbs. Replace the washer on the other side of the Number 1 shaft and put on a new circlip. Continue on with the middle powervalve with the same procedure. You will have to slide the Number 2 shaft through the last powervalve in order to place it in its original position. This is why the oil seals are not placed at the last powervalve yet.

12.) Put the oil seals in the last powervalve and slide the shaft in and secure using your washers and new circlips. Once your powervalve assemblies are in place prep the surfaces for the new gaskets. You can scrape with a razor but be careful not to scrape any old gasket material into the chambers.

13.) Install the new gaskets and the covers using thread locker on the bolts. Torque to 7.2 ft. lbs. Put spacers back on and then the couplers.

14.) Replace the cable bracket with the cables. Remember to attach the cables before you bolt the bracket down. Finally, replace the bracket that the Stinger bolts to. Replace your exhaust chamber and your Stinger.

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