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  • Oil Color?

    I bought a '98 XPL at the end of last season. The guy said he bought it from a Sea Doo Mechanic. Everything worked great! It ran almost 65mph on the speedometer with my 230lbs. I have now put almost 10 hours on it. I noticed that it did not seem to use as much oil as my '94 GTS (about one quarter as much).

    I went to add some Sea Doo brand sythetic oil to the tank. The existing oil in the tank was a BLUE-GREEN color instead of the BROWN Sea Doo oil. I did not mix the oils.

    I have read about seizing problems. I now understand that the engine was seizing when it shut off at WOT. It seized about 5 times over the last three rides. My compression is now 125psi mag and 105psi PTO. I wonder if the previous owner used the wrong type of oil, or mixed oils and gummed up the oil lines? I am planning on doing a top end rebuild with the cylinder exchange from SBT.

    I will change out the oil lines and clean out the old oil.

    Is there anything else to do to get the oil pump system working better?

    How do I test the oil pump?

  • #2
    Re: Oil Color?

    I just had the same problem,,get that oil out of there, that my friend will destroy your engine,guaranteed!!! I found out that you can only use rotax spf synthetic two stroke oil, and for the oil pump,,change out all the oil first, make shure you drain the lines going to and from the block, dont worry about draining the small lines going from the pump itself, take the oil filter off and check it for obstruction, i just blew through it very easily with my mouth. After you have all the oil changed, take the oil injector cable off from the carbs, make shure you pay attention to the placement of the adjuster nuts ,and remove both carbs, you should now see the oil injector fittings in the ports leading to the crank, your engine should crank over about 6-800 rpms, so pull out your plugs and while you are cranking it you'll have to pull the oil injector cable with your hand , look into the ports where the carbs you will see the oil squirting ever so slightly into the ports, make shure you use the bleeder on the oil pump to relieve all the air in the lines and pump itself, just keep doing this in short increments pulling the cable wide open for a bit,, that should clean out the old oil in those lines,and to see if the pump is working, this is a easy way to judge if your pump is working,, now below is how to if the pump is off and your keeping all the oil lines connected, you need to have access to a drill, you just connect the drill to the rear of the pump and hold it in your hand, when i put my cable back on i just adjusted it up just very little to make shure I was getting enough oil, i only went 1 turn on the adjuster nut, i hope all this helps,good luck



    For an accurate test, each port should be checked

    separately to ensure equal delivery on both ports.

    To obtain a precise result of the oil pump delivery

    rate, rotate it counterclockwise at 1500 RPM for a

    total time of 30 seconds.



    NOTE:
    To ensure accuracy of test, oil lines should





    be completely filled before starting test.

    Compare the results with the chart below. If oil

    pump is out of specification, replace it.



    NOTE:
    Test can also be done at 3000 RPM. Double





    quantities in chart.



    1







    Engine 717


    Oil pump
    flow rate at
    1500 RPM
    (30 seconds)
    1.24 - 1.51 mL
    (each port)

    2
    Engine 787
    0.71 - 0.87 mL
    (each port)

    Last edited by Shawnharris24; 07-28-2007, 12:56 PM. Reason: typo

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