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  • 97 GTX Problem

    Well, here is the problem. I bought a 97 GTX in March that had an SBT engine put in by a shop in Texas, in May of 2000. The previous owner said it has never run right, and he was tired of dumping money into it. The GTX generally doesn't run over 5000 RPM, but on 2 occasions, it suddenly kicks in and runs perfect at 7000 RPM. BTW, I don't have the name of the place that has done the engine swap, or previous work.

    The GTX was sold to me with the explanation that it is flakey. I transported it back to California, and did some checking. The results of the first "ride". Engine starts, and at WOT, it runs at about 5000 RPM. The RPM's will also vary, dropping as low as 3500 WOT, and at 1 time, it suddenly cleared and hit about 7000 RPM for about 20 seconds. Motor was very smooth, just before it dropped back down to ~ 5000.
    I have another 97 GTX that runs great, and have worked between the 2. To make a long story shorter, here's what I have done, or verified, over about 8 trips to the water.

    Raves are clean and are the updated ones with the housing with the additional slots (Thanks, Bryan), fuel baffle circuit board failed (no gauge indication) and was replaced. Fuel line connections and routing have been verified, new fuel line installed between baffle and carb, external fuel filter and internal carb fuel filters have been replaced. Carbs have been cleaned and checked. After doing a little carb work (no problems were found) the carbs were swapped between the GTX's and both sets of carbs run great, on my other GTX (new gaskets each time). New spark plugs. Cut back spark plug cap wires 1/4 inch and reinstalled. MPEM's have been switched (they both work exactly the same in both ski's.)
    The GTX experiences several problems. On one checkout, it started and ran at 5000 RPM for 5 minutes, then started to bog down, and back up. After a few more minutes, it started to drop down to 3500 RPM (WOT), and when I crossed over (not jumped) a boat wake, it would lose power, and stutter around 2000 RPM. Finally limped into the marina, where it stalled. Turns over but would not start, and had 2 small backfires. Would also not start on trailer.
    Next trip, it started and would do the 5000 RPM number again.

    It seems to me that it has to be a timing issue.... either with the Rotary Valve, or timing. First thought was flywheel timing might be off. The old sheared woodruff key and possible movement. Read the Seadoo shop manual, and it shows that there's no woodruff key in the 787 motor, and the trigger pickup is not adjustable. I still feel that it's the timing, and since the problem varies from worse-case (not starting) to best-case (WOT of 7000 RPM for about 45 seconds), I'm trying to track down and nail the little gremlin.

    My vacation starts next Sat and I'd love to get this going by then.

    Ignition timing, Rotary Valve, ???


    SCOTTY

  • #2
    First, yes, every ski has a key.

    Second, I would be inspecting your rotary valve cover and it's clearnce. Take the cover off, and remove the o-ring. Replace the cover and torque it back down. Now with a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between the vavle and the cover. It must be between 0.010" and 0.014" NO MORE. You want it spot on 0.012" if you can get it. The cover must also be in perfect condition - no scratches, gouges, etc. - anything you can feel with your fingernail is too much damage.

    If all that looks good, then I would be suspecting your CDI unit. Since you have another, swap it just like you did your MPEM.

    If that doesn't help, you could have a failing coil or bad plug wire.

    It's also possible your stator is failing, although I would suspect the other things first.

    Comment


    • #3
      Byan,
      Thanks for the quick reply. I need clarification on some of the suspected items.

      According to the manual, and inspecting the ski, my understanding is that the CDI unit is part of the MPEM in the 97 GTX. The only things in the rear electrical box is the coil and starter solenoid.

      Would the RV clearance be the possible cause of all of the symptoms... no start, engine bogging, 5000 RPM max, and then suddenly 7000 RPM for 45 seconds.

      I'm going out to swap the rear electrical boxes tonight. That will take care of coil and spark plug wire suspicions.

      Thanks,
      If a phone call would help, let me know via email.

      Scotty

      Comment


      • #4
        You are correct, the '97 GTX doesn't have a separate CDI box like some other 800's - I didn't know that 'till now.

        Yes, the rotary cover could be causing all of this.

        Yes, swapping the rear box will eliminate the other issues as a cause.

        I suspect, since you didn't mention ever checking the cover before, you might find it to be the pproblem, and I would inspect that before doing anything else.

        Comment


        • #5
          Bryan,
          Sorry for the misspell.... (Byan)

          I'm just starting to swap out the rear electrical box, and will run to the water and test it tomorrow morning. I'll still check out the clearance of the RV cover, as I don't know whether it was done correctly. One thing I omitted from the first posting was that 1 of the 3 hex bolts on the head pipe assembly was loose. I saw a drop come out of there about every 10 seconds when I was running the ski with the hose. A quick tightening fixed it, but I will replace the gasket when I get the ski squared away. Don't want to introduce any other variables into this GTX equation.

          Am I right in assuming that if the RV cover is out of spec, one just replaces it? (I'm getting to be way too experienced on working on the ski.)

          The stator will probably be the last thing I check, if the other 2 don't fix it.


          One other question, semi-related. From what I've seen, the main problems with failed 800 engines is water ingestion, or oil pump/lube failure. What would you figure the percentages to be, and are there any other trends on 800 failures? They seem to be the most reliable of the SeaDoo engines.


          Thanks,
          Scotty

          Comment


          • #6
            You don't need to replace the cover - it can be remachined. We sell them for $75 on exchange.

            Yes, the 800 is a very reliable engine - I would say that failures are probably split evenly between water ingestion and lack of lube with it - most of the 800 water ingestion cases we see are operator error - like turning the ski over the wrong way, or towing without pinching the water line. Very few have a leaking pipe problem.

            Comment


            • #7
              Bryan,
              Just got back from the water, and swapping out the rear electrical box did nothing. I went out... 5000 RPM, and then a few minutes later, crossed a large boat wake, When it came down hard on the second crest, the RPM shot up to 6700 RPM, and away it went... for about 30 seconds. Something definately got jostled, and I'm going to pull the RV cover and check out the clearance. You mentioned that the clearance could be a problem, but I'm also wondering, could the RV shaft (gears) cause this too?

              Scotty

              Comment


              • #8
                No - when the gears strip, you're screwed.

                This could also be a RAVE related problem, but check the cover surface and clearance first.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Bryan,

                  This is the engine that I sent the RAVE valves and housings in a few months ago, and you grooved the valves and notched the housings. Reassembled with the green bellows, new O-rings, etc. They both are clean and slide easy.


                  I won't have time to work on it again until Wednesday night. Any chance of SBT shipping one out for Wednesday delivery to California? I can call tomorrow... credit card and 2nd day FEDEX ... the clock is ticking... 5 days until holiday.


                  Scotty

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Bryan,
                    I bought this GTX from a student in Texas, who said that the shop (I don't know the name) that put in the SBT motor never got this ski right. He said that he had paid a small fortune, and that they just kept putting parts in, or adjusting things. He said that they were no closer to fixing it, and that he felt that he couldn't afford to keep trying to get it fixed, and that the shop seemed to not even want to see it again. He said that his receipt said it was an SBT motor when it was installed, and my local Seadoo dealer (when he was reprogramming the MPEM for to accept the DESS lanyard already set up for my other 97 GTX) popped the seat, and immediately said, "I see you have an SBT engine in it".

                    The TX owner ultimately said he just wanted to get rid of it.

                    So, as far as I know, it has never run right after the engine replacement. The fuel is fresh, and the TX owner gave me his extra XP-S oil. He also said that he had only run it about 10 hours, and I have probably run it for an hour since, with all the testing, and such. As I said in the first post, when it kicks in to 7000 RPM, it's very smooth, almost toying with me.

                    Scotty

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Just to eliminate the RAVEs from the equation, take off the black caps and springs and go ride it - see how it does.

                      Also, to eliminate the water regulator, after you do that, put he caps back on (assuming it doesn't help) and pinch the lines from the regulator (RAVE looking thing on the waterbox) to the exhaust and do a couple high-speed runs. See what happens. Don't ride it more than a minute with the lines pinched.

                      [ July 23, 2001: Message edited by: Bryan Glynn - SBT Webmaster ]

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Totally up to Sales, as to what they can do and when.

                        BTW - did this start happeneing after anything in particular happened?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I have read other posts like this
                          It turned out to be corrosion on the ground circuit. The ground stud inside the rear
                          electrical box Cheap fix

                          Good Luck

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Larry960,
                            The very first thing I did was visually check the grounds. Also, when I replaced the MPEM, and the rear electrical box, I removed the grounds as suspect. I have also checked the + and - cables. You're correct in the grounds being suspect, but swapping them still leaves this GTX crappy, and my other one fine.
                            Right now, I can't do anything else until Wednesday night, but plan on checking the woodruff key on the Flywheel. Once that, and the stator is checked, I'll know whether it's the RV cover clearance.

                            Scotty

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Hi Scotty, I was reading your posts and I had the same problem with my 97 GTX. Dealer fooled with it for a while and finally found out the pipe had a small hole(the welded area)in it and was causing all of the problems. Worth taking a look at. Good luck

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