1200SUV Break In

[Miket978]

I've read a few posts about break in and I'm starting to believe that replacing the motor might have been the easy part!!! I've got my new motor completely installed, but I haven't started it yet. I've converted the engine to pre mix and I've ordered break in oil.

I have a couple of questions:
1. Is it ok to start the motor for the first time out of the water? I just want to be sure that the motor will start before I put it in the water. My plan was to start it and let it run for about a minute. I assume that just running it for a minute without the water on will be ok?

2. Does the break in have to be done all at one time? 10 Gallons of gas will take a while to run through the engine. I was hoping to break it in over several launchings.

3. The break in Tech write up talks a lot about throttle positions. (Full throttle etc.) Having riden this before, I know what kind of power this motor can generate. I can't imagine running this at full throttle for any length of time at all...(too fast) will this be an issue?

Thanks

Mike

[Pale Rider]

Re: 1200SUV Break In

Mike, so basically you`ve installed a 1200 SBT engine in your SUV.
and installed a block off plate to run premix.

a few questions:
did you remove all the oil lines?
blocked off the tank oil line?
capped the oil injection nipples on the carbs and secured correctly?

is the fuel tank full, half, or empty?

in any case not knowing where your at with the install/running process

here is what I recommend:

remove the spark plugs, grab the drive coupler and rotate the engine so the piston(s) are down and pour one tablespoon of oil in each spark plug hole.
you can use a piece of 3/8 wooden dowel to push the piston down as well (that`s what I do)...

reinstall the spark plugs and torque to spec.

figure out how much fuel you have, and add 2 stroke oil to make it 32:1 for the first tank. don`t worry if it smokes to much.

you can then fire it up on the trailer, only to get it running and idle for a few seconds, 15-30 sec only...

make sure the engine will run before you turn on the garden hose if you intend on running it longer on the trailer.

now that you`ve got the machine to idle, take it down to the ramp, leave it on the trailer and start the ski, let it run for a few minutes to warm up, check for water leaks, fuel leaks and all over in the engine compartment for anything. after you did that, shut it down, park the trailer and now your ready for a ride...

I`m assuming that you`ve corrected what ever issue caused the old engine to blow or go bad. I`m also assuming that your carbs are either clean, or rebuilt and adjusted properly to idle and run...

break in:

for the first 15 minutes after warming up the engine, ride the ski to bring it up on plane, do not baby it, do not stab the throttle full, just ride as normal and get the ski to plane off, do not exceed 5000-5500 rpm for the first 15-20 minutes BUT as you slow and start to ride again, get more aggressive with the throttle. You want cylinder pressure to put force on the rings to seat correctly. Now after 15-20 minutes, shut it off. Look around for leaks, let the ski cool down for 15-20 minutes and repeat.

This time run the ski to 6000-65000 rpm`s following the same as above, using more aggressive throttle and a little bit of cruising. do not cruise at a steady speed just yet.
after 15-20 minutes, shut it down again.

Next: after a cool down period, fire up the ski, warm and let the ski idle, using a more aggressive throttle yet bring the ski to full throttle rolling starts and get over 6500 to max RPM`s for NO more than 15-20 seconds at a time. During this break in session, cruise a little to check midrange, and bring the ski to full throttle for a few seconds. each time you do this you can hold it open for a bit longer, and longer. after this 15-20 minutes are done, shut it down again, look over the ski, let it cool. then you are good to go.

until you finish a good tank of fuel don`t hold the throttle wide open continuously, you can hit the throttle harder and get up to max speed and slow down and repeat as often as you`d like.

When the first tank is gone, change your oil ratio to 40:1 for the rest of your rides...

It is imperative to use a good quality oil!!! not outboard oil!

good luck!

and YES, you want to do this all at the same time bc the heat cycles are important as is parts wear in and the stretching/expanding of the engine components.

BTW where is your location?

I`ve run my 1300GPR wide open for miles at a time! when your ski is set up right it can do this...

you should see a max speed in the 50`s range and that is nmot screaming fast. heck 73 max on my last GPR is not fast anymore by todays standards...

[Miket978]

Re: 1200SUV Break In

Thanks for the incredible write-up Pale Rider.

Answers to your questions:
I've installed an sbt motor and a block-off kit. I've also removed the oil pump oil lines and blocked the nipples on the carbs. The fuel tank was drained before I began this endeavor, so I'm basically starting from scratch. I've bought SBT's break in oil and I plan on mixing 32:1 for the break in.

I do believe that I've found the issue which caused the first engine to fail. When I removed the oil pump, I found about 2 cups of water in the pump and the bottom of the reservoir. I purchased this ski from someone, who I now believe, knew there was a problem with the engine. I had run the old engine for about an hour and I knew there was a problem. The center piston/cylinder was severely damaged. The front piston/ less so and the rear was nearly perfect. The crank was showing signs of rust. You should have seen the metal flakes that came out of this thing. Ironically enough, the engine sounded great. And the condition of the ski (other than the original motor) is Mint. It only has 74 hours on it!!!

Should have done a compression test when I bought it I guess.

I do wonder how water got into the pump/reservoir...???

My location is Massachusetts.

[Pale Rider]

Re: 1200SUV Break In

no prob!

I`d be concerned with the carbs, you don`t know if they were ever opened up and cleaned properly. I`d bet after all this time, you`ll def find something inside them...
It would suck if all your hard work were for nothing if the carbs caused your engine to run lean, not operate correctly and blow a new engine...


also have you aligned the engine correctly?

I asked bc if you were close by, I`d offer to lend a hand with the break in...

Let us know how she runs!

[Miket978]

Re: 1200SUV Break In

The carbs were rebuilt last spring when I was just figuring out that I had a bad motor. The guy who rebuilt them had told me that the lean condition did exist.

I spent a good deal of time aligning the coupling. I am confident that I got that right.

What is your location?