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new motor/won't start

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  • #31
    John, I have seen a crank seize in one instance on a friends ski, it would get hot and lock up tight, we removed the jugs and inspected, all checked out fine. Told him then something was phunny in bottom end, noticed a little slop in the PTO rod to crank bearing but he really wanted to try to run the ski again when I told him the prices for a crank kit. Any way he tried the ski again that weekend with the same outcome. So finally convinced him to tear down the bottom end, what we found was somehow a roller or two had gotten broken and fell out. And had assumed a sorta/kinda square shape [img]smile.gif[/img] Any way while cool they would allow the crank to turn but upon heating would sieze the lower unit. I guess if you look long enough you will see all kinds of strange things happen!

    Seadoobie [img]graemlins/cwm3.gif[/img]
    Either Get Wet, or stay on the Hill!

    Seadoos
    91 XP almost completely restored
    91 GT almost completely retored
    94 XP old Play thang Sold (Not sure if Im glad or Sad,
    have a complete 94 XP parts
    ski for sale now)

    Yammies
    97 GP1200 New Play thang
    98 XL1200 New project

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    • #32
      Thanks Bill...could i get your opinion on something, because i really want to ride this thing this weekend..Here goes, i cut the bad part out..which is right at the lower end of the hose where it beds 90 degrees and i put in a metal sleeve and got a pice of flex hose and clamped it on both ends..there is no pinches or creases in it and i ran it in the driveway with a hose hooked to it and there were no leaks and water was pouring out the back and it never got hot....what is the likelyhood of this blowing apart when i get it on the lake...should i even try?

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      • #33
        What kind of flex hose, exactly?

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        • #34
          It's standard radiator flex hose, it's thicker than the hose i spliced it into, plus i put high heat silicone around where it was spliced. there are no pinches and it the water seems to be flowing good, but that with a garden hose, you think i should try it on the lake...maybe back to the boat lauch and leave it on the trailor just in case is blows apart?

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          • #35
            It should be ok if you used a good hose.
            Bill O'Neal WCM
            <a href="http://www.watercraftmagic.com" target="_blank">www.watercraftmagic.com</a>

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            • #36
              Thanks Bill...got another question. I finally got it out after 2 monthes of sitting, hose worked fine by the way...anyways i ran it for awhile, about 3 hours to be exact..braeaking it in of course, didn't get crazy.it seems to run great other than at take off..I press the thorottle and it takes a second to jump up and go, but once it's wide open it friggen flys. Could this be because of the pre mix i have in my fuel tank on top of the injection pump, will this go away or should i try adjusting the carbs? JUST DON'T WANT TO BLOW MY NEW MOTOR..By the way, my plugs are on the borderline of choclate brown and black, but burned evenly on both.By the way it did this on my old engine

              [ September 01, 2002, 09:40 PM: Message edited by: stevepaulus ]

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              • #37
                And if i have to adjust the carbs i'm not really sure how to...can you give me some pointers?

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                • #38
                  for a 3 hour break in your already gunning it? at WOT? Hmmm, looks like you maybe a candidate for some detonation. You need to take it easy on the new motor till about 3 tanks are gone, with the last tank having some WOT runs for about 3 to 4 seconds. Just my opinion.
                  Its like breaking in a car. You have two choices: do the procedure of picking up speed slowly and then backing down and then back up, etc. OR slamming your foot down on the pedal and hoping to almight GOD that the motor doesn't throw a rod.
                  96xper [img]graemlins/cwm3.gif[/img]

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                  • #39
                    I only opened it up for abot 2 seconds, and that was at the end of the tank of gas, i went from 20% to 50% throttle, and never held it at 50% for more than a few seconds. Other than that 2 seconds i opened it up it runs great. Should i add break in oil for the second tank of gas also?

                    [ September 02, 2002, 08:42 AM: Message edited by: stevepaulus ]

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                    • #40
                      Another problem i am having.. Since i installed the new motor my oil indicator light staying on, but sometimes it will go off for a few seconds, i checked my injection oil tank and it has plenty of oil..Does that just sound like a loose or corroded connection or possibly something else?

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                      • #41
                        Got my second tank of gas ran through my new motor, didn't get on it too much, never WOT. Still seems to be sluggish on take off. Plugs are borderline dark brown and black, hard to tell, and there wet, should thay be wet or dry after a 2 hour ride? It runs great except it takes a second or 2 to take off from idle, but once i get going and i am doing tricks and stuff it pulls me right out of the water, no problem at all...it just hesitates from idle...any ideas guys? i appreciate it.

                        Thanks!!!

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                        • #42
                          Wait until you get at LEAST 3 tanks through it, can run normally at WOT, and have fresh plugs in it before you assess the tuning. You may have to do some fine tuning of your carbs after that.

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                          • #43
                            Thanks Bryan.. Ill run the third tank this afternoon, then change the plugs and let you know how it performs after that.. Thanks again for all your help!!!

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                            • #44
                              Sometimes the accellerator pump nozzels get clogged up and don't shoot enough fuel into the motor on take off. But then you cleaned them before you tried to use your new motor, didn't you ?

                              Like Brian said, wait until you are running pure fuel, no pre-mix, before you try to fine tune your motor.

                              There is nothing wrong with full throttle runs after one tank has been run through the motor, as long as you back off the throttle AS SOON AS YOU GET TO MAX RPM. Do not hold it wide open. Get there and back off.

                              "I" series carbs run extremely lean at partial throttle settings. For this reason, you are really better off going from low rpm to max rpm during break-in and not cruising at mid range rpms, where the clyinder temps are the hottest.
                              Bill O'Neal WCM
                              <a href="http://www.watercraftmagic.com" target="_blank">www.watercraftmagic.com</a>

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                              • #45
                                Thanks Bill. My carbs were taken apart, cleaned and rebuilt 2 weeks prior to my old engine seizing, i should not of had to do it again, Right? And does anyone have pics of plugs as they should look when the carbs are tuned correctly? An does it matter what octane of fuel you run i sea-doos..i am just running 87 octane, should i run higher or is that fine?

                                [ September 03, 2002, 02:25 PM: Message edited by: stevepaulus ]

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