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  • #46
    Well Bryan i got my third tank through yesterday afternoon, so i should be broken in, right? I installed new plugs as you said and ran it like it says to fine tune the carbs. I pulled the plugs and number 2 plug was wetter than the number 1 plug, and they were both borderline dark brown and black. I'm not real sure on how to adjust this...could you give me some pointers if you get time. And also i noticed it's only sluggish on take-off when it's not completly warm, it's fine once the engine comes to temp, is that normal?

    Thanks Again!!!

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    • #47
      Dark brown/black and wet means rich. Start fine tuning by turning in 1/8th of a turn on the appropriate screws for the throttle positions.

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      • #48
        Hey Bryan, i pulled my plugs again and i noticed they were fairly dry, but there was alot of wettness on the threads of the plugs them self..and all the way up to where the plugs seat...are you suppose to put some kind of sealent on them...it was more wet on the threads than it was on the plug itself..part that fires. And if it is in fact running a tiny bit rich will this srew my motor up severly, cause i'm not sure i want to mess with these adjustments, and i don't have the money to pay someone to adjust them. And if i do decide to monkey with the adjutments...just turn in the screw for the cylinder that is wet...i'm not could with carbs. I know there is a low and high speed screw...so how do i start..low or high and how exactley do i do this process..i just don't want to screw my new motor up... Thanks i appreciate all your help

        [ September 04, 2002, 02:51 PM: Message edited by: stevepaulus ]

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        • #49
          Running rich will not harm your engine.

          How are you torquing the plugs down?

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          • #50
            i hand tighten them until they seat and then turn them, they say 3/4 of a turn if you do not hhave a torque wrench, but they will not go that far..and i don't want to force them

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            • #51
              Bryan, i think i figured out how to adjust the carbs, but let me run this by you...there is a high and low speed screw on each carb right? So a total of 4 screws between the 2 carbs. Put old plugs in and let the motor warm up and take it out for a 5 miniute ride at no more than 20% throttle, bring it in and check the plugs and adjust the low speed screws accordingly. Take it back out and run at 50% and come back in and adjust the high speed screws accordingly, amd i righ about the 4 screws or is there only 2 between the two carbs? And what is a feeler gauge, and do i absolutley need one to do this, i am new to this. Do i need the airbox off or can i get to the screws with it on? And one more thing, can i adjust this in the driveway with a hose hooked to it or will it throw the plug reading off? Thanks so much for all the help, i really do appreciate it..

              Thanks Alot!!!

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              • #52
                You have it right about the screws, but I guess I need to update my carb tuning article to be a little more specific.

                You pull off your lanyard at the end of the time run of each test - you cannot idle back to shore or whatnot, then check the plugs - they must be checked at the throttle position you are testing. That means that yes, you must go WOT, for example, pull the lanyard to shut it off, drift to a stop and either check your plugs floating out there, or be towed in to shore.

                Yes you may need to remove your airbox for access between trials.

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                • #53
                  Thanks alot Bryan, i have learned alot from you and it is much appreciated. Hope i don't sound too stupid, i am just not famaliar with oil injected engines...and carbs never was my strong point, even on cars.

                  [ September 04, 2002, 08:04 PM: Message edited by: stevepaulus ]

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                  • #54
                    Like i said i am not familiar with these motors...so, another stupid ? Do i have to run Bombardiaer oil, or can i run any type of 2 cycle oil for watercraft... i have been running bombardier oil..just looking to save some money, but if it will hurt my motor i can live withe the extra.

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                    • #55
                      One last problem, my engine dies it seems when i hit rough waters, not sure if it is just a bad connection on the lanyard, or possibly something else...cause it only seems to do it when the motor is hot. It always starts right back up, does that just sound like a bad lanyard key, or a loose or corroded connection? And where do i lokk for this loose or corroded connection?

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                      • #56
                        Originally posted by stevepaulus:
                        Like i said i am not familiar with these motors...so, another stupid ? Do i have to run Bombardiaer oil, or can i run any type of 2 cycle oil for watercraft... i have been running bombardier oil..just looking to save some money, but if it will hurt my motor i can live withe the extra.
                        Stay with your Sea-Doo oil. If you want to learn more, hit the search button, it's been discussed over many threads.

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                        • #57
                          Originally posted by stevepaulus:
                          One last problem, my engine dies it seems when i hit rough waters, not sure if it is just a bad connection on the lanyard, or possibly something else...cause it only seems to do it when the motor is hot. It always starts right back up, does that just sound like a bad lanyard key, or a loose or corroded connection? And where do i lokk for this loose or corroded connection?
                          Check ALL your connections, especially the battery and starter grounds.

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