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  • 4-TEC Oil Change Comments

    RE: Tech Article on 4-TEC oil change - posts not allowed.
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    The hand operated suction pumps suck! Get the vacuum canister type - much more pleasant to use.

    The Torx socket needed is an external 12mm (E12).

    New o-rings come on the filter but there are 2 more that may be needed - depending on condition. A small one for the center bolt and a larger one that seals the cap to the bowl.

    Removing the center seat support is not necessary on a NA 4-TEC - it may be on a SC.

    Recommend sucking the oil out first - right after the engine run - before the filter change. Oil will migrate to the lower sump with time preventing removal of the full 3 qt (only 3 qt of the 4.5 qt capacity can be sucked out). Keep sucking until approximately 3 quarts come out.

    Even with the filter unit center bolt loose, the cap is hard to remove. A screw driver can be used in the slot between the filter body and the cap to help lift the cap. Don't worry this is not a sealing surface.

    Lube the o-rings with engine oil before reassembly. CRITICAL: The oil filter cap has a step on the cylindrical surface that goes into the filter body. The cap sealing o-ring goes on the step not up next to the top. This thing will leak badly if the o-ring is not in the correct place.

    It's easy to over fill the oil system. Refill with less oil than removed. Start the engine. Check for filter leaks. And then add oil up to the full mark.

  • #2
    Good additional tips - I'll add them to the How-To!

    The vaccuum canister type is what we used - I'll clarify.

    Removing the seat brace is not necessary on the SC but makes it very easy to change the oil filter, nothing is in the way. It's all of 30 seconds for convenience.
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