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'92 GTX Won't Start

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  • #31
    It would be FANTASTIC if you shipped me the '93 box! I just sent you some money via PayPal for the shipping and your time. If you get a tracking number I'd appreciate it if you emailed it to me :)

    My Address:
    Zack Jones
    4133 Saddlehorn Dr
    Evans, GA 30809

    If it works how much do you want for it?

    If it doesn't work I will mail it back!

    Thanks SO MUCH!
    Zack Jones &gt;<br />(Still Learning)

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    • #32
      AHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!

      It still won't spark with any of the 3 units' rev-limiter hooked up. Disconnect and it sparks but won't start!

      UPDATE:
      I found that the red/purple wire was grounded. It joins the purple wire to the temp-sensor. A grounded red/purple wire would give an "overheat" signal without the warning-horn. I disconnected it and got a spark with the rev-limiter CONNECTED!

      After a little fiddling around I get a spark with the rev-limiter and red/purple connected; however, it still won't start.

      This is a new engine that has run about 2-3 hours. I'm sure the rotary valve timing is right, and it has a new woodruff key in the fly-wheel. When I pull the plug there is fresh fuel and oil on it.

      I am running the oil-rich break-in mixture. Should I try to add 40:1 to the tank to try to make the fuel a little "hotter"?

      What next?!?!?

      [ May 28, 2004, 07:20 PM: Message edited by: Skyhawk76E ]
      Zack Jones &gt;<br />(Still Learning)

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      • #33
        if you have { good spark} now and fuel and compression you should be starting . do this just for kicks .

        1 do a compression test

        2 make sure you have HOT spark not no little spark , it should jump an inch from the wire without the boots on .

        3 check your fuel for water . also try putting some fresh fuel in the carbs then try to start it holding the thottle open .

        4 if that dont work but all checks out ok double check that your flywheel has not spun . you can check it with a timing light .

        also ground out the rear plug wire to the grounding post and leave the plug out , then try to start the motor holding the thottle open .
        PRIDE IN SERVICE<br /> <img src="http://www.sbtontheweb.com/images/forposts/4609/1.jpg" alt=" - " />

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        • #34
          Hallelujah, praise the Lord! It starts and runs now with only a couple of minor issues!!!!!

          You were right, there was a fuel problem!! Before my last outing I had installed a new fuel valve. Since the no-start problem I had tried it on both tanks, plus there was no spark, so I’m sure there was an electrical problem. Today when I looked at the fuel bowl as you suggested, I noticed it wasn’t full. I switched the fuel tank to the full tank setting and tried to start. The fuel bowl filled and it started and idled for a couple seconds before I shut it off (flush kit wasn’t hooked up)!!!

          I’ve got a couple of remaining issues (no where near the severity of the original).
          1) It starts and runs now, but only on full tank, not on reserve. I switched the lines at the valve and the same problem exists! I need to double check this cause it’s a brand new valve.

          2) It doesn’t want to idle without me opening the throttle a bit. It slows down and quits. Now I have to crack the throttle a bit to start it, too. Could this be fouled plugs from hundreds of revolutions without running? (They’re black on the ends)

          3) Do I need to finish out this super-oil-rich tank for the break in? I’d like to add my 40:1 premix to what’s in there, but I don’t want to screw-up the break in.
          Zack Jones &gt;<br />(Still Learning)

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          • #35
            whoops i emailed ya { iam not typin again haha} just post your findings so it will help out others :)
            PRIDE IN SERVICE<br /> <img src="http://www.sbtontheweb.com/images/forposts/4609/1.jpg" alt=" - " />

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            • #36
              Here’s what I’ve got now. The fuel lines “seem” to be right now. I’ve got less than half tank and it only runs on reserve.

              The spark is GONE…but! If I disconnect the rev limiter it will run! I have to yank the spark wire with my hand to shut it down. When I reconnect the rev-limiter it will restart several times in a row. If I let it sit for 10 mins or so, it won’t start (no spark).

              If I start it with the rev-limiter disconnected and the reconnect the rev-limiter, I see a spark between the 2 wires I'm reconnecting and it dies.

              Does this new information open any new possibilities?
              Zack Jones &gt;<br />(Still Learning)

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              • #37
                did ya try it with all the mpems i sent ?

                your main fuel should work untill your on your last 2 gals of fuel .
                PRIDE IN SERVICE<br /> <img src="http://www.sbtontheweb.com/images/forposts/4609/1.jpg" alt=" - " />

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                • #38
                  I am running on the MPEM you sent with the 2 external relays.

                  I'm not sure how much fuel is left in it. Any idea how many gallons per hour the 587cc burns (on average)?

                  After starting it without the rev limiter (RL) and killing it by reconnecting the RL. It sat for a minute (I did move the box) and then it started with the RL connected! I stopped it normally and then hooked-up the flush kit. I ran it for 3 minutes on the flush kit with it idling normally. I stopped it normally. I was then able to restart normally.

                  The only thing about the stop switch and lanyard wire is that if they are bad the starter won't even turn-over, right?
                  Zack Jones &gt;<br />(Still Learning)

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                  • #39
                    use the newer box if it works out , if you keep the older box , the 20 bucks ya sent is fine .
                    PRIDE IN SERVICE<br /> <img src="http://www.sbtontheweb.com/images/forposts/4609/1.jpg" alt=" - " />

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                    • #40
                      I hope you get this thing fixed, but I want to comment on the walmart battery. They SUCK!!!! I went through 3 in about 8 months. 1 had only on weekend ride sat for a month and was shot. I got a new dry cell batter (gel cell) and haven't hade a battery problem since. This is just a word of caution on those crappy batteries.

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                      • #41
                        the funny thing about electric problems is one min they work the next they dont . you should try the other mpem i sent also , the old relay boxes are a pain in the butt lol .
                        PRIDE IN SERVICE<br /> <img src="http://www.sbtontheweb.com/images/forposts/4609/1.jpg" alt=" - " />

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                        • #42
                          I tried both boxes, but that was with the fuel problem unresolved. If the newer box will run should I use it?

                          I'm pretty sure the original box would have worked with the red/black wire removed if the fuel problem had been solved. But I tried to dig through the rubber to "fix" the insides before I realized it was a poured plastic. I will keep it around as a backup and pay you for one of the boxes. The other I will ship back.

                          I've got some ideas on the source of the intermittant electrical problem, but I will wait till I test them to post.
                          Zack Jones &gt;<br />(Still Learning)

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                          • #43
                            1FastSki...you're awesome, man!

                            Took the skis out on the lake this weekend. The electrical problem raised it's head right off the trailer, but after jiggling a few wires it fired-up and ran all day. The same thing happened the second day I took it out.

                            It was very gratifying to see my wife pulling skiers and knee-boarding kids on the old craft with my new SBT engine pulling away!

                            I will switch the boxes in the next couple of evenings and have the '92 box on its way back to you by the end of the week (assuming the other works :).

                            I've still got this intermittant electrical issue to track down and a fuel problem. I'll start the fuel question in a separate thread.

                            T H A N K Y O U!
                            Zack Jones &gt;<br />(Still Learning)

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                            • #44
                              glad to see you having fun , dont forget to thank SBT without them many would be lost :)
                              PRIDE IN SERVICE<br /> <img src="http://www.sbtontheweb.com/images/forposts/4609/1.jpg" alt=" - " />

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                              • #45
                                I plug SBT every chance I get! These guys do business the way I try to run mine. Treat people right and give them quality products at a fair price. The rest will take care of itself. Their customer service and warranties are unmatched and 100% reliable!!!

                                Here's my story...
                                I took a chance buying a $400 trailer queen off of eBay. I had hoped that there was something binding the "prop" and that the engine was fine. After a little research I found the engine was shot. A little more research found a new engine was more than $2,000! A few Google searches later I found SBT. Less than $800 for a rebuilt engine! WOW!

                                I've never torn-down or rebuilt an engine before, but I could figure-out how to use a torque wrench. With the level of instruction and support SBT provided I was able to have a jet ski with a "good as new motor" with just a few hours of effort. I have no doubt I could sell this jet ski for a profit if I wanted, but it's too much fun! Plus I have the confidence to do the work myself, now.

                                Thank-you SBT!
                                Zack Jones &gt;<br />(Still Learning)

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