How do I fix my gas gauge?

[MoTLD]

Re: How do I fix my gas gauge?

When you tested the sender, did you test at the connections on the circuit board in the baffle itself, or the other end of its cable where it plugs in?

'Cause if the sender is working and the gauge works when you jumper it, that just leaves the cable between the two as the likely problem. Test the sender again but connect your meter to the end of its cable instead of inside the baffle.

-Mo

[bull_dog998]

Re: How do I fix my gas gauge?

Still not working???

Test #2, with the sender unplugged, short the wire coming from the MPEM. The fuel gauge should indicate a full tank. If not, even if you fix the sender, the gauge will not read correctly.

If the magnet is in place and the sender still reads open circuit (no continuity and tank gauge reads empty), there may be hope for repair.

Look into the bottom of the pickup (sender) tube. You will see a circuit board with some components. On the side that has the components on it (reed switches, etc) use a hack saw and cut a 1" square opening at the top - Just under the top lip of the pickup. Be CAREFUL not to cut into the actual fuel pickup tubes in the plastic. You may need to use a matting knife to make the vertical cuts and remove the piece.

At the top of the sender you will see a surface mount component that is in series with the wires. More than likely it will be labled "F1." This is a fuse. Test it for continuity. If open, bridge the fuse by soldering a piece of wire across the fuse. The fuse is there to protect against static electricity. If paranoid, you can always add an external in-line fuse in the wire. (be sure to put bearing grease or silicone grease on the terminal ends to prevent corrosion.)

Hope this helps someone!

this dose work i just fixed mine on my xp seadoo i was so happy these site do help you?

[hugh james]

Re: How do I fix my gas gauge?

I personally own a 96 GTX and I also have a customer with the same boat. Both of us have the same problem with the information center. Mine is burned out completly - a large black circle that encompasses most of the gauge. Nothing works or even shows. My customer is beginning to have the same problem, a black circle in the unit that appears to be getting larger.
I hve been told that replacing the unit is the only option. This I believe. These suckers are also very expensive - I've been told. Also, there was a change made in 1997 so a later one won't work. I tried a decent used parts source - M&M in California, and was told none are available. Aalso - I understand that you must remove the gauge and get the part number from the bvack of it.

Comments? Help? Experience?

[dooguy69]

Re: How do I fix my gas gauge?

Well, I just bought a 96 GSX and I also have no reading for the gas guage. I have read this entire thread and have two quick questions. I unplugged the fuel sender and jumped the leads. I got a full reading so I know the issue is with the fuel sender. I took that out of the tank to find that the float was comepletely gone. I was planning to buy a new float and install it. Hopefully this will work.

1. Is there a cap or something that attaches to the bottom of the fuel sender that prevents the float from falling out the bottom when removing the sender from the tank or when the tank goes to empty?

2. I unhooked the four gray fuel lines but wasn't really paying too much attention to where they were installed on the sender. I see that one goes to the reserve line, and one goes to a vent. One must go to the carb and the fourth i don't know. The problem is the online parts fiche do not really show how to put the lines back on the sender. Does it matter at all or no?

I haven't really looked into the tank to see if I can find the sender that came out the bottom. Since there is a magnet I'm sure I could fish it out. Any chance it will still work if I reassemble into the sender?

~thanks

[Bill O'Neal2]

Re: How do I fix my gas gauge?

Yes there is a plastic cap on the bottom of the sender that also fell off allowing the float to come out.

If you look closely at the sender, the 4 fittings are all marked to tell you which hose goes where.

[Bofa_Deez]

Re: How do I fix my gas gauge?

Also, Check for corrosion in the wire from the guage to the mpem.
My 2000 xp fuel & VTS guage wouldn't work either & my baffle was bad too, testing confirmed this. So I put in the new baffle & it still read empty so I started looking in the connections & Blam! There it was My VTS & Fuel connections had corrosion on the connecters at both ends. Unplug the mpem & look for the any slight corrosion on the plug & if there is see what the color code is & then find it on the other end. If there is corrosion I used a small drill bit that fit snug in the pin hole & honed it & put dielectric compound on it to protect it. Both my VTS & Fuel guage work again. The VTS corrosion find saved me 135.00 for a new Module!

[dooguy69]

Re: How do I fix my gas gauge?

Well I got it apart this weekend and fished out the float and end cap. I put the float in the sender and tipped it upsidedown. Then I turned on the ski and it read full. So I placed the sender horizontally and shook it a little to get the float to move to the center of the sender. The gauge read half. I was in business, so I thought.

I reassembled everything to find that the float no longer floats. I read somewhere on another thread that these floats can go bad and not float any longer. I've ordered a new float and it is on the way. Thanks to all...

:beer

[GMan]

Re: How do I fix my gas gauge?

The following post is for those who suspect they need a new circuit board...
I had the same nobody-home blues with my fuel gauge (96 GSX). I read this whole post (thanks everyonel!) and decided to tackle the problem head-on.
Like most others here, my gauge tested fine but the sender was a no-go. So that meant removing the sender: What a pain!!!:emotredf I ended up draining the tank and removing the steering box (4 bolts/nuts). I had to shove the tank forward and cock it at a weird angle to get the sender to exit (barely) through the steering box hole.
The four gray hoses on top of the sender appear to be held on by factory crimped-style (non-wormdrive) clamps, but on mine the hoses just pulled right off. Note: Make sure to label the hoses! (Yes, the sender is labeled but the gray hoses are NOT..all you need is some masking tape and a marker).
Once the sender is out you can pop the bottom off and out drops the float, hopefully with magnet still attached. On mine the float and magnet were ok, and so was the fuse, but between the pink wires it still tested 'open', no matter the position of the float. After testing the wires themselves (ok), I figured it was the circuit board and I'd be buying a whole new sender. So just for yucks, I took a dremel and cut out a long window from top to bottom of my sender (1st pic) just to get a look in there. Note: If you try this at home, be careful not to cut into the pickup tubes.
This exposed all the resistors and magnet switches, which all tested ok.When I tested between each pink wire and the circuit board, the pink/black stripe wire had continuity but the solid pink wire did not. Aha! must be an open circuit on the circuit board, a simple solder job. But first I needed to remove the board to be able to get to the solder joints on its backside. A previous poster said you can just dig out the black pitch and remove the board, but that must be another model because I had no luck removing mine.
My solution was simply to add a jumper between the board and the solid pink wire. I did this by soldering one end of the jumper to the left side of the bottom resistor (green wire in 2nd pic), fishing it up behind the circuit board (so as not to interfere with float operation) and passing it out the top of the sender head (through a small hole I drilled in it). Finally, I used a trailer-wiring splice to connect the jumper to the solid pink wire near the connector.
To repair the gaping hole I'd cut in the sender, I replaced the cut-out section and 'seam-welded' it by melting plastic over the seams with a soldering iron. (Pic #3 shows completed repair). By the way, plastic zip ties make good welding material!
Note: Before welding the piece back on, clean off any burrs from inside sender that could snag on the float. Then check again for smooth float operation after welding.
Before you reinstall your sender in the tank, test it on your ski by reattaching the wiring harness and keying the DESS. If working properly, the gauge should indicate the position of the float AT THE TIME THE KEY IS ACTIVATED. Note that it will hold this reading for quite awhile even if you move the float to a different position. This is normal--the circuit has a delay built in--this is to discourage a wildly fluctuating gauge when you are splashing around out there.
My fuel gauge works great now. It is a solid repair and the best part, free! No doubt it would have easier to just buy a new sender, but then I wouldn't have had any material for this long (and boring!) post! :emoticonz
Hope it helps someone.

[parrothd]

Re: How do I fix my gas gauge?

Did you check the fuse inside the baffel? (Near the top)Most just bypass it for the repair..

[GMan]

Re: How do I fix my gas gauge?

Yes thanks, as mentioned it was one of the first things I checked. Wish it had been that simple :beer

[Wet Wolf]

Re: How do I fix my gas gauge?

OK guys, I'm working on a 96 GSX. I can't seem to find the part# for just the float kit. Does anyone know what it is???

[Tom XP]

Re: How do I fix my gas gauge?

Don't have the # but found this http://www.angelfire.com/oh/theboatguy/fuelfloat.html

[parrothd]

Re: How do I fix my gas gauge?

Got mine at the dealer, they had 10+ of them, seems to be a common part..Under $15...

[Wet Wolf]

Re: How do I fix my gas gauge?

I know, they should keep dozens in stock, but the parts guys around here haven't got a foggy friggin clue, thats all they can do is look at the microfiche and say, "well it only shows the complete assy on here..........."

[parrothd]

Re: How do I fix my gas gauge?

Use the search page.. :)
http://www.parkeryamaha.com/index.as...D&ProdID=27436
>>>>>>
Per Seadoo's dealer parts pricing guide, they only offers one fuel float kit, part number is 295500438 with a retail price of $8.47. This float will work in all years. Any Seadoo dealer can order this for you, some will play dumb with you because they want you to pay for a new fuel baffle at $110.
The same goes for the Mikuni carb diaphram they want $42 for while the same one from Yamaha is $8.95. Internal carb filters from Seadoo are $8.97 while the same ones from Polaris are $5.95.