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  • #16
    Overtons.com has the Solas grate also. They also have Worx which is another good brand for Polaris models. Good Luck!

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    • #17
      Dude,, here you go. Save your self an Extra $50.00 from that other site.

      Click Here

      [ April 10, 2002, 09:21 AM: Message edited by: Bryan Glynn ]

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      • #18
        Did Polaris just raise that price , or what??
        I thought it was like 30.00?
        365 days a year sunny in SW Fla.
        275 hours on my STX-12F

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        • #19
          HELL YEA..Polaris did raise the price. I know from my local Polaris Dealership,, they quoted me the same product and all I did was give them the Polaris Website part# and they quoted me 47.00 for it and free shippin

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          • #20
            OK, I found it for 29.00, if they honor theri price:
            go here........
            http://www.lcpthrill.com/performance...watercraft.htm
            365 days a year sunny in SW Fla.
            275 hours on my STX-12F

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            • #21
              I called LCP and they said the grate was more. I ordered online from Hot Seat for the Polaris R&D for $35. I have not recieved it or recieved my credit card bill so I do not know if they still use that price but with online ordering they probably legally have to, I have an invoice stating $34.99 as the price and if I am charged a cent more (other than shipping) I pity the poor fool on the other end of the line when I call to deman a complete refund.

              [ April 11, 2002, 07:38 PM: Message edited by: Sinister SLX ]

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              • #22
                hey sinister, nice tag on the end! i love that song!
                Ryall Meyer

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                • #23
                  My R&D is here! $35 +shipping! I can not wait to get the grate and OP plate on so I can ride---maybe I can keep it in the water at wo throttle now :D Too bad I have to wait at least another month [img]graemlins/crying.gif[/img] :( [img]graemlins/crying.gif[/img]

                  [ April 16, 2002, 11:17 PM: Message edited by: Sinister SLX ]

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                  • #24
                    You will love that combo. Make sure to report back on how you like it.

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                    • #25
                      I will be sure to post my impressions. I have never installed a grate or plate but it does not look hard--remove screws, remove old plate/grate, clean old silicone off boat, put new slicone on and put everything back in place.

                      Two questions

                      Should I use lock-tite on the screws?
                      What type of Silicone is best?

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                      • #26
                        1) I think its a good idea to use loctiteon the screws rather than just using the silicone.

                        2) The strongest silicone you can use is the one Polaris uses - PN 8560054. I think its made by 3M but don't quote me on that (If anyone knows the 3m product number I would like to get it from you)

                        I used Loctite/permatex blue RTV silicone when I installed my OP plate last year. It adhered very well and I was happy with the results.

                        [ April 18, 2002, 02:08 AM: Message edited by: CJ ]

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                        • #27
                          I use regular clear silicone and it works well and has worked well for countless years. I personally don't use loctite on the screws but use a dab of silicone. The loctite has never been necessary in my experience.
                          Make sure to have, buy or borrow a hand impact screwdriver to take the screws out. They will only strip and cause a major headache if you just try to use a screwdriver. Next heat the rideplate with a blowdryer or heat gun to soften the stock sticky stuff. It will make it easier to remove the plate. Also cut the silicone with a utility knife around the rideplate edges. On my skis, I use a flat screwdriver and wedge it between the back of the plate and the hull and hammer away to get the plate to seperate from the silicone. I am careful and the hull doesn't get damaged. I have found that this is the best and fastest way to break the seal of that wicked Polaris adhesive. Another good tip is to dry fit the rideplate and make sure all the screw holes line up before putting any silicone on. If you put silicone on and a hole doesn't line up just right that you have to hog out a little larger, it makes for a big mess with the silicone on there from not dry fitting first?

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                          • #28
                            By hammering away I mean to drive the screw driver in like a wedge and not hammering down trying to pry.

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                            • #29
                              Thanks guys. I do have a hand impact (kind that you hit with a hammer) for the side case screws on all my motorcycles---good thing you said something though because I probably would of not used it at first because I figured the hammering would be too much for the hull. Anyone else have a preference on the locktite vs just silicone issue? I assume you mean just to put a dab in the screw hole instead of lock-tite?

                              [ April 18, 2002, 04:04 PM: Message edited by: Sinister SLX ]

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                              • #30
                                I put a dab on the screw itself like you would with loctite. I ride in some extreme conditions (ocean, surf and choppy lakes) and have yet to lose a screw. I think loctite is overkill and it's harder to pull the screws in the future.

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