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  • Charging Coil (650SX)

    I have a 650sx standup that I have owned for 4 years. I have never had a problem till last season. The ski died after 15 min. of riding and the battery was completely dead. I brought it home charged the battery, and the same thing happened the next time I tried to ride.I can start hooking a battery up and the positive terminal will spark as I make the connections. I think it may be the regulator / rectifier or the coils behind the flywheel. I bought a repair manual off of E-bay that is pretty much useless other than the wiring diagram (its a supplement). Could anyone tell me what resistance values I should get when testing each lead from the stator and regulator / rectifier unit.

    Also, I used to have an E-mail address of a company on the west coast that had a HUGE inventory of mostly used Kawasaki parts. I can no longer find it and was wondering if anyone might help me out. It might come in handy if I have to buy parts.

  • #2
    Hi;
    What year 650SX? The wiring colors differ from year to year.

    I can provide you with the resistance measurements, but you'll need a low impeadance analog Ohmmeter for accurate measurements. A digital multimeter won't provide exactly the same readings.

    For used parts try: M&M Marine

    Dan

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    • #3
      SKI is 1987 model. I assume factory coils/ stator plate. Wires are:
      Yellow(2)
      Black(1)
      Black w/ red stripe(1)
      Black w/ yellow stripe(1)

      Thanks for reply

      Comment


      • #4
        Hi;
        The two yellow wires are from your charging coil. Set your Ohmmeter to the lowest resistance range. You should measure 1.5-1.8 Ohms between the two yellow wires. The coil should also measure 0.7-1.3 Ohms between each yellow wire and the black wire. The black wire should be a ground wire connected to the stator plate assembly.

        The black wire with a red stripe is connected to your trigger or "exciter" coil, and the black wire with a yellow stripe is another ground.

        It's possible for a coil to meet the resistance measurements and still be "bad" due to a breakdown in the winding wire enamel insulation.

        The best test is to measure the AC voltage output of the charging coil with the engine running.

        Disconnect the two yellow wires at the voltage regulator / rectifier inside the electrical box.

        Connect an AC voltmeter across the two yellow wires (from the stator) Start the engine, and at 3000 RPM (if you don't have a tach, approximately half throttle) you should measure 38 volts AC.

        Be careful not to allow the wire connections to come in contact with a ground when making such measurements with the engine running.

        Good Luck!

        Dan

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks Dan,
          I've checked wires and here is what I got:
          approx. 2.25 ohms between the two yellows
          and approx 1.7 on the yellows to black wires.

          I haven't measured output yet while running. One last question. Since my supplement manual doesn't include regulator / rectifier resistance check values could someone tell me these for 87 650sx.

          My manual for my old 1982 440 describes using a kawasaki tester and just says either "no reading" or "reading of some value" - LOL
          Also, I wouldn't want to assume that both coils (440 & 650 )would have the same resistance.

          Thanks again,
          Andy

          Comment


          • #6
            Hi;
            The Kawasaki tester is basically a low impeadence "analog" Ohmmeter. Again, if you use a digital multimeter, which typically have a high input impeadence, your regulator / rectifier test readings will not exactly match the following:

            With the meter negative lead connected to each Yellow wire, and the positive lead connected to the Red wire(or whatever color wire goes to the inline fuse) 1-5K (1000-5000) Ohms.

            You should read "infinite" resistance with the negative meter lead connected to the Red wire and the postive lead attached to any of the other three module wires.

            With the meter negative lead attached to each yellow wire, and the postive lead conected to the Red wire with a Purple stripe (which connects through the start switch to the starter relay) you should read 2-10K (2000-10000) Ohms.

            There should be "infinite" resistance between the two yellow wires.

            It's also possible that your wiring harness has been rubbing, or has internally corroded somewhere
            and your have a short or open in the harness. I have also heard of rare instances where the OEM flywheel magnets have become too weak to build a charge on the stator coil.

            Good Luck!

            Dan

            Comment


            • #7
              Dan,
              I am pretty confused and I apologize for my electrical ignorance.

              I get 23 ohms resistance when I connect either Yellow wire(Negative lead) to the orange wire. Also I do not see an in-line fuse.

              When I connect Yellow (negative lead) to either black wire I get 750 ohms.

              When I connect orange(negative lead) to any other wire I get infinate resistance.

              Black to Black I get 0 ohms

              Black to any other wire (except other black)I get infinate resistance.

              I have checked my starter relay (and active resitance),start & stop switch,etc. and all check out per my supplement procedures.

              I have also checked all externally visible portions of the wiring harness and see no signs of problems.

              One more thing: I checked my CDI igniter and do not get the same values as shown in my manual. However, the ski fires and runs great till the battery is dead. Could the CDI box be causing me problems also even though I get good spark & timing?

              Thanks for your help so far.

              Andy

              Comment


              • #8
                Hi;
                Are you using a digital multimeter or an analog "needle gauge" type of Ohmmeter to take your measurements?

                If you are using a digital meter, measurements taken on coil windings will be fairly accurate, but any resistance measurement of an electronic module will not match the values provided by the Kawasaki manual.

                If all you have is a digital multimeter, measure the AC voltage output of the stator with the engine running, if you see 38 volts AC, across the two yellow wires (you can leave everything connected and just probe into the bullet connections) then measure the DC voltage across your battery. You should measure 12-14 DC volts with the engine running.

                If you measure a good DC charging voltage, your battery is ungood.

                If you don't measure a good DC charging voltage, take a look at your battery connections, especially the battery ground that attaches to the engine, and the connections in /at the electrical box to the starter relay. If all your connections are clean and tight, the stator AC output is correct, but the DC charging voltage is low, chances are you need a rectifier / regulator.

                When was the last time you replaced the battery? If you haven't kept it on a float charger during the off season, it just might be time for a new battery.

                Dan

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