How do I test a stator on a kaw 650 x2?

[slag]

Model is a 1989 kaw x2. I bought it last week for 200 bucks cause the owner said motor was locked. Instead, I pulled the front cover off and rust water poured out. Yep, it had a frozen bendix.

Anyway, Motor is not seized but the stator was soaked in rust water for a while. I cleaned everything up, but how do i check the stator to see if its any good. I dont know exactly how much of it was under the water.

I guess what I'm asking is, what wires do I check and what readings should i get with my multimeter?

[slag]

nevermind.. found a post by dan that explained everything.

[jetskidude]

Hey slag,
Where's that post? I would like to take a look at it.
Thanks,
Mike

[slag]

I cant find the post again, but I do have what Dan Depardo put in it:

The two yellow wires are from your charging coil. Set your Ohmmeter to the lowest resistance range. You should measure 1.5-1.8 Ohms between the two yellow wires. The coil should also measure 0.7-1.3 Ohms between each yellow wire and the black wire. The black wire should be a ground wire connected to the stator plate assembly.

The black wire with a red stripe is connected to your trigger or "exciter" coil, and the black wire with a yellow stripe is another ground.

It's possible for a coil to meet the resistance measurements and still be "bad" due to a breakdown in the winding wire enamel insulation.

The best test is to measure the AC voltage output of the charging coil with the engine running.

Disconnect the two yellow wires at the voltage regulator / rectifier inside the electrical box.

Connect an AC voltmeter across the two yellow wires (from the stator) Start the engine, and at 3000 RPM (if you don't have a tach, approximately half throttle) you should measure 38 volts AC.

Be careful not to allow the wire connections to come in contact with a ground when making such measurements with the engine running.

Good Luck!

Dan

Hi;
The Kawasaki tester is basically a low impeadence "analog" Ohmmeter. Again, if you use a digital multimeter, which typically have a high input impeadence, your regulator / rectifier test readings will not exactly match the following:

With the meter negative lead connected to each Yellow wire, and the positive lead connected to the Red wire(or whatever color wire goes to the inline fuse) 1-5K (1000-5000) Ohms.

You should read "infinite" resistance with the negative meter lead connected to the Red wire and the postive lead attached to any of the other three module wires.

With the meter negative lead attached to each yellow wire, and the postive lead conected to the Red wire with a Purple stripe (which connects through the start switch to the starter relay) you should read 2-10K (2000-10000) Ohms.

There should be "infinite" resistance between the two yellow wires.

It's also possible that your wiring harness has been rubbing, or has internally corroded somewhere
and your have a short or open in the harness. I have also heard of rare instances where the OEM flywheel magnets have become too weak to build a charge on the stator coil.

Good Luck!

[speedster]

Does anyone know if this applies to a 93 750sx as well...