2001 Sea-Doo XP Performance Mods.

[speedfrk]

I would like to increase the bottom to mid acceleration on my stock 2001 Sea-Doo XP. What are my options? Does anyone sell a package that can be installed by the DIYS mechanic?

[mattgross]

vforce reeds will give you alot low and mid power, and get aftermarket flamearresters, prok or fly and then you will need a jet kit

[Bryan Glynn]

Make sure you use reed spacers with those V-Force. www.watercraftmagic.com can set you up.

[KMT15]

Flame arstors are more for top end than bottom end. If you want bottom end I would have your head milled by PPG and get your prop repitched.

-KMT15

[riverbrohym]

Hey KMT15,

Do you have pics of your XP? Can you send to my email: Riverbrohym@aol.com

[chippy]

Hi KMT15

I have some modifications too on my XP, My head is milled from rossier, jet kit, H2o kit for pipe, reed pedals and flame arrestors. It goes quiet good with the standard XP's, I have good bottom end and also top end.

[speedfrk]

Thank you all for the suggestions. I’ll check them out. [img]smile.gif[/img]

[PowerStrokin]

SpeedFrk, Im currently using PPG's level one package on my XPL and Im very pleased with the overall gain from top to bottom. Im also using a PPG re-pitched prop and micro-touch rev limiter.

Chris

[XP98]

Re: 2001 Sea-Doo XP Performance Mods.

Hey KMT15,

All the stuff to your XP sounds Cool. How fast do You think it went after the PPG mods? Also, have you had any reliability issues?


Thank you


---XP Hull, still the very best!!!!

[Bill O'Neal2]

Re: 2001 Sea-Doo XP Performance Mods.

I have been selling performance packages for XP's since they started making them.

If interested, call me at 626 914 9509. We have something for every budget.

[chris w]

Re: 2001 Sea-Doo XP Performance Mods.

I would avoid stock heads that have been cut too much if you are using pump gas and want your motor to go the distance. That being said, I am currently using a stock modified head/cylinder to raise compression and increase squish velocity. But my head / compression ratio is much more conservative than the PPG heads I have had the chance to measure or got measures on, and I concider mine over the edge for straight pump gas the way I ride, I can get away with straight pump if I dont load it hard with hard turns.

Of course IMO.

[Bill O'Neal2]

Re: 2001 Sea-Doo XP Performance Mods.

Bolting any modified head onto any two stroke motor without knowing the squish clearance and compression ratio is about the quickest and easiest way to detonate the motor to death.
This is an area of two stroke performance most overlooked when people start modifying their watercraft.

In the earlier years when engines were 440-650cc's, you could get away with much more using pump fuel. You could "get it close" and the motor would still live. Not with the larger engines of today, and the lousy pump fuels sold in todays gasoline market. As the twin clyinder motors went from bore sizes in the 60-70mm sizes to well over 80mm, the requirement of having precise squish clearances and widths and compression ratios greatly increased.

I would not trust some jetski mechanic or shop to get it right for me via the postal service and an assurance that it will "bolt right on and be good to go". They are not the ones who eventually pay for the damages done by an improperly machined head.

This is not to say it cannot be done. But it must be done correctly, and it certainly must be checked accurately if you expect to have a motor that will survive.

I recommend leaving the head stock, or spending the money for a top notched billet head with domes that are specifically made for the octane fuel that you plan on using. It just is not worth saving a few bucks on the head mod then having to rebuild a motor because of it. Do it right, or don't do it at all.