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  • FX140 vs. 4-Tec

    I'll have a detailed comparison between these two craft later this weekend - we just got done with long break-in and play sessions.

    These are very different craft, neither perfect, with some very interesting 'quirks' to say the least.

    [ February 21, 2003, 10:02 PM: Message edited by: Technical Support ]
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  • #2
    man i'm glad you guys bought a lake!!
    97 venture11/1200, 01gp12r stage1, 02F12X
    dav_dman@yahoo.com

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    • #3
      This review was based on sessions in the intercoastal waters of and the Gulf of Mexico outside Clearwater, FL.

      Riding both skis back to back and switching back and forth, we got a very clear picture of their performance and handling characteristics in conditions of all kinds, including glass, light chop, medium chop and heavy wind chop. No attempt was made to jump these things, there's no point.

      First let me say that both of these skis have weird quirks about them, neither are perfect, but one or the other may suit you more so than the other. I will attempt to point out things that strike us as first time riders of these skis, and give a direct comparison between the brands/models.

      Both skis look very nice on the trailer. Both have excellent fit and finish, both are huge. The rear deck of the Sea-Doo is flat, the Yamaha has it tapered down to make it a bit easier to get back on in the water. However the Yamaha still does not employ a rear boarding step, which the Sea-Doo does, which is what REALLY makes it easy to reboard. Points for the Sea-Doo.

      As far as break in procedures, both are very different, and I think a combination of both techniques would have provided a better break-in, however they were followed per manufacturer's instructions for each brand.

      The Yamaha Break in is 5 min of trolling speed in the water, followed by 30 min. of below 5,000 RPM operation, followed by 1 hour of below 8,000 RPM operation, all while varying the throttle. After that it's all good.

      The Sea-doo recommends a 10 hour period of break-in consisting of no above 3/4 throttle operation, while varying the throttle...that's it.

      When starting the craft for the first time, both were a bit temperamental and stalled when the throttle was applied slightly. Several restarts later they would stay running.

      In the water, off idle on the Yamaha you can hear the gearbox spinning up and whining, kind of like a manual reverse gear on a car. I wonder if they are using helical gears?

      Break-in went without incident, although was very boring, as expected.

      With both craft ready for action, their individual characteristics could shine and A/B testing could be performed.

      Both skis feel very heavy in comparison to late model two-stroke 3 & 4 seaters. Riding them, they almost feel and act more like small boats than large skis. The wake produced by the Yamaha looks more like a dingy than a PWC. The weight can be most felt on the Yamaha getting out of the hole, and while turning (or attempting to turn to be more accurate) on the Sea-Doo.

      When running up from a stop, the Yamaha feels like a brick till about 15 MPH when it starts to come on plane. You pin the throttle and it will crank to 10,000+ RPM, throw a MASSIVE thrust out the back, but it takes a couple seconds for the speed to kick in, then you start going like a slingshot, although it’s not all that fast. It certainly doesn’t rip your arms off like late model 2-stroke musclecraft, or even 3-seaters do.

      Cruising at 15-35 MPH produces a very funny and very annoying phenomenon, that was also produced by some mid-late ‘90’s Venture skis. The FX140 cannot ride level from about 15-35 on plane. It will only ride on one set of chines or the other, and you are actually tilted about 15 degrees left or right. You can throw your weight over and tilt it the other way, but it will not ride level until it gets out of the water more, past 35 or so. So if you enjoy cruising at those speeds, which many do, you will encounter this, and it gets old.

      Past that point, the FX140 is extremely responsive, with a VERY snappy throttle that seems to directly connect the tach and speedo, with instant power response to RPM changes. The ski switches from a sluggish auto trans at low and off-plane speeds, to a tight manual when on plane. Top speed is decent, we will provide full performance radar data at a later time. Both skis are about equal, both are within a couple boat lengths to top speed, with the Sea-Doo being *slightly* faster.

      Interestingly enough, the FX-140 is probably the very best handling and turning hull I have ever ridden. It turns sharper than anything out there, including a stock GP1200R hull. It will hook on a dime, and go where ever you point it no matter the speed – and you better hold on, because it CAN throw you right off without blinking. Kudos to the Yamaha!

      In contrast, the Sea-Doo is about the worst turning hull ever made, they actually went backwards. Last years DI hull, which we also have here, is MUCH better, but more about that later.

      The Yamaha includes the Quick-Shift trim as found on the other large Yamaha models for the past 6 years, and it works perfectly, allowing instant trim selection even at speed. This dramatically helps while cruising through varying conditions, and came in extremely handy when going from 1-2” chop to 10-12” chop. The Sea-Doo has no trim and the handling suffers accordingly.

      The Yamaha also includes a tilt steering feature that allows you to go almost fully vertical or fully horizontal to suit your taste. Unfortunately they include the cheapest, flimsiest cover I’ve ever seen on a ski, and it rattles. The chin pad is thin rubber, and it’s hollow – it’s like they forgot the foam or something – it flops around, and is not tight in place – very cheesy. The cowling below that that covers the shaft is a thin hard plastic covering, and is also cheaply mounted, and flops around. A definite step backwards from their previous offerings, I have no idea why they did that.

      The Sea-Doo offers no tilt steering, and for those of us that prefer horizontal steering, it’s really too bad, because it also seems they moved the hand grips in. The Sea-Doo feels MUCH less stable especially running thought he chop than the Yamaha, partially because you don’t have as solid a feel from the steering as you are jolted through and over the chop. The Yamaha has more comfortable grips, with more actual grip area, smaller ribbing and a wider stance.

      On to the Sea-Doo. The 4-Tec hull is dramatically different than the Yamaha. It pops on plane in literally 1 second, and feels more like a rock skipping over the water. The Yamaha takes several seconds to get on plane and build speed, but has better mid-range so it catches right up.

      The Sea-Doo overall feels much faster, but in reality it’s not, they are pretty evenly matched. The speeds sensation is just felt very differently between the hull designs. The Sea-Doo rides much like their previous 3 seater offerings while going straight. It tends to try to skip and hop over every little wave, giving a slapping kind of ride. The front end is never settled, and is always bobbing up and down slightly. It never porpoised, however. The Yamaha did have a slight porpoising effect, however it’s not as bad as previous models and the pump never came unhooked because of it. The Yamaha overall was a much more solid ride, and plowed through chop keeping an even ride. With multiple riders however, I’d be curious if the porpoising gets worse, as previous models often did. Too bad they couldn’t cure that phenomenon yet. A combination of the two hulls would have been ideal as both have good and bad points.

      Getting going off idle the Sea-Doo revs near redline, produces a ton of thrust and pushes you along, although again, nothing like late model muscle craft. It’s smooth, and linear power, not like the peaky power of a 951 3-seater, but not arm-ripping. The Sea-Doo definitely feels like it has more top-end power than the Yamaha while it’s going from 40+.

      In hard turns, the Yamaha gives up no RPM, and stays hooked up. The pump groans and growls like the old Venture, and the thrust eventually catches up to you and pushes you forward out of the turn. The Sea-Doo loses a little RPM and doesn’t regain until straightening out. No pump noise can be heard.

      One strange difference you may notice, is the abundance of steam coming from the Sea-Doo exhaust. Don’t worry, it’s normal – but looks like oil smoke. The Yamaha has no such steam.

      The Sea-Doo cannot turn to save it’s life. The hull doesn’t’ hook worth a darn, and pushes out every turn, no matter what the speed. You can pick a point such as a buoy, and your turning diameter will nearly double at a full speed run, in a circle around it. The ski actually slides out, but will not spin out. A WOT, full lock turn no matter what your body position will not get it to turn as well as other skis, including last years Sea-Doo two stroke hulls. The older DI hulls were twice as good as far as turning.

      The OPAS system worked well I guess – it was not noticeable at all, and no side effects were felt in any condition. The Yamaha employs an electronic off-power steering solution, and while decelerating off power, above 20 or so, a full lock turn will give you 5,000 RPM of power automatically to gently turn you. It was very slick.

      Neither skis are a dry ride in all conditions, and both could use some good bow spray deflectors, which are being installed next week. Both were very dry up to the moderate chop mark, and when going against the wind into it, both absolutely soaked us. The front spray was coming over with every wave, especially on the Sea-Doo, which also hits you with a fine bb like mist off the little hood cowling. It ends up hitting you right in the face.

      [ February 22, 2003, 12:15 PM: Message edited by: Technical Support ]
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      We try to answer each question quickly and accurately.
      Please do not use Private Messaging for Tech Support, use the forums.

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      • #4
        Nice review to read. So are these new 4 stroke skis just very thin jet boats? Progress has a double edge sword it seems. I'll just stick with my xpl and gp1200 until a tree hugger shoots me.

        When will the cost of these 4 strokes impact on their sales growth or will they? Are there enough folks down the pike willing to pay more for a ski than a used 16 ft. Donzi, etc. I wonder. Wait till folks need a rebuild on these new 4-strokes. har har! Is SBT looking into that part of the market? What do you think the rebuild costs will be retail. A factor of 4 over 2-stroke? (as few will be able to perform their own re-build, IMO).
        97 GP1200/99 XPL<br />Head, intake and handling mods on both

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        • #5
          VERY few companies will have the equipment or capital needed to invest in 4-stroke remanufacturing or even rebuilding. Even most dealers for 4-stroke applications send out the components to various shops for rebuilds.

          Yes we will be doing the 4 strokes but not for a few years, as there is no out-of-warranty market for it for the time being. New long blocks from the OEMs are in the $6k+ range, ours will certainly be much lower, as are our 2-strokes than OEM.

          Prices will effect some I'm sure, but the overall monthly cost of finacing is very close, even for an additional $2k-$4K. I think with the shifting market towards family and cruising rather than fun, the market will be picking up nicely overall.
          SBT Tech Support is here to help with your problems.
          We try to answer each question quickly and accurately.
          Please do not use Private Messaging for Tech Support, use the forums.

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          • #6
            awesome review. So a 2004 turbo fx-140 will be a fun ski, sounds like. (no, ...i'm just figuring yama will do that).
            97 venture11/1200, 01gp12r stage1, 02F12X
            dav_dman@yahoo.com

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            • #7
              It is to my knowledge, im not sure here but when i was breakin in my yamaha it was 10 at 3/4 or less throttle, i think you might have mixed tht up...i could be wrong
              Jetdude

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              • #8
                I'm right. I can scan the page if you like.
                SBT Tech Support is here to help with your problems.
                We try to answer each question quickly and accurately.
                Please do not use Private Messaging for Tech Support, use the forums.

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                • #9
                  thats ok i beleive you
                  it always pays to be wrong so ya learn more, and thats what i am here for [img]smile.gif[/img]
                  Jetdude

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                  • #10
                    No flames intended but it sounds to me as if you are pro Yamaha. Where did you test these skis anyway? I'm new to the board so forgive me if I'm beeing ignorant. Hope I don't sound pro SeaDoo!!! Well maybe a little! [img]/graemlins/cwm27.gif[/img] OK I see where you tested. It helps to start from the beginning. My mistake [img]graemlins/cwm3.gif[/img]

                    [ April 23, 2003, 04:30 PM: Message edited by: ZincDude ]
                    Get Supercharged!!

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                    • #11
                      I am pro-Yamaha however I didn't really like either of these skis enough to buy them, just not my style. I showed both positive and negative points of both skis.

                      I want to ride the two-seat Honda and see how close to a two-stroke musclecraft it is, it should be the closest.

                      As stated these were ridden in the Ocean off Clearwater Beach.
                      SBT Tech Support is here to help with your problems.
                      We try to answer each question quickly and accurately.
                      Please do not use Private Messaging for Tech Support, use the forums.

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                      • #12
                        The 4-TEC will turn much better if you use the OPAS rudders to help. From full speed, back off the throttle about 1000 RPM. That allows the rudders to drop. Start the turn and get back on the throttle.

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                        • #13
                          Maybe I need to take a closer look at the OPAS design, but it's my understanding they are simply actualted from the surface water speed, pushing against and up on them to raise them - as in, they lower at a certain speed. I don't see how pump water velocity would effect them at all.
                          SBT Tech Support is here to help with your problems.
                          We try to answer each question quickly and accurately.
                          Please do not use Private Messaging for Tech Support, use the forums.

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                          • #14
                            Not true! OPAS is operated by pump pressure.

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                            • #15
                              Tech. Support,
                              How would you compare the FX140 with the XLT1200. I'm trying to make a decision.--Thanks for any feedback--Ken

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