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Polaris SL 750

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  • #16
    Trust me on this. You need to get an Ocean Pro and forget about any other rideplate. None compare to the OP. Try http://www.hotseatperformance.com for the OP rideplate. I am positive they can get it.

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    • #17
      Cool, I will give them a call. I might even check into some pump wedges. What is so good about the op rideplate? They just make it more stable right?

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      • #18
        Hey SeaLion I forgot I had another question for you. What type of plugs did you run in your sl750? I use the recommended ngk bpr7es but I heard I could run br7es. Would that be better or make a difference?

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        • #19
          OP rideplates cut down on porpoising and handle and track way better than stock or any other aftermarket rideplate. You can get a 4* or a 6*. With the SL750 pump, a 4* is probably better because a 6* will shoot a 30' roost out the back when trimmed all the way up.

          On the plugs, I always ran BPR7ES. I wouldn't run a BR7ES because the Fuji engine needs the "P"rojection tip of the BPR7ES.

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          • #20
            Well SeaLion I think I have got enough info out of ya to keep me busy for a while. This weekend is f/a and rejetting. I ordered some other stuff to put on too. After I get this stuff done and see how it goes I will need a prop for sure. Is that 13/18 skat swirl in good shape that you have? [img]smile.gif[/img]

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            • #21
              I never said you had to rejet. It might need it, but most of the time fine tuning will be all that's necessary.

              The 13/18 is in brand new shape and is tuned and bluprinted.

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              • #22
                I am going let the shop do the f/a's. They said it might need rejetting. I told them whatever just make it right. Better them than me. I aint one to mess with stuff all the time to get it right. how much for that prop? :D

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                • #23
                  I still have to test with it so I can't sell it just yet, but it cost me $300 for the imp. and the tuning and blueprinting. If it doesn't work out for my application and I have to use my 12/17 then I will sell it. The 13/18 worked excellent in the SL750 but my SLX780 has all sorts of mods and it might not work for it. I won't know until I test. I was going to sell it for $150. It will only have 10-15 minutes on it if it doesn't work out for me.

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                  • #24
                    Hey SeaLion. Did you add a second fuel pump to your sl750? Just wondering. I hear sometimes it is needed and somtimes it is not.

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                    • #25

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                      • #26
                        No, I never had an extra fuel pump on my SL750. I never had a problem either, but it is a good thing to do. After 95, Polaris was using a different fuel pump with 3 outlets instead of 1 like you have and then t-ing off to all the carbs.

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                        • #27
                          Thats cool. I am just waiting for it to get out the shop. Getting the f/a's, waterbox, new fuel filters, spark plugs, spark plug caps and the carbs tweaked. Should run like a champ. It already did but enough is never enough. Next will be the almighty prop and ride plate. Anything else I should do?

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                          • #28
                            The 4" pump extension is good for about 2 mph. Polaris used to sell the kit for $400. You might be able to find all the parts used and save some money. The other thing I would have done while doing the F/A is to get the 3/8" reed cage spacers and some Boyesen replacement reeds. The reed cage spacers and reeds give you better bottom end and mid range plus the life of the reeds are greatly extended from the spacer moving the reeds away from the crankshaft's turbulence. You can always have your stock head re-worked to bump compression. It was a very good improvement on my SL750.

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                            • #29
                              Yeah I had the boysen reeds put in when I had my new sbt motor put in. I think messing with the head will void the warranty on the sbt motor. But that is only good for a few more months though. What all does the head intail?

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                              • #30
                                The head gets milled and the squish altered to bump compression. It is important to tell whoever is doing the head mod that you have an SBT swap and what the bore is so they can calculate the head re-design correctly.
                                Too bad you didn't get the 3/8" reed cage spacers put on when you had the reeds installed. It is a really good mod that not only helps performance but actually improves reliability and lessens maintenance.

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