Winterizing 900 ZXI

[brenton]

Hello All,
This is my first post so yes, I am a newbie when it comes to jetskis.
Can someone tell me please what to do to winterize a 95-96 Kawa 900 ZXI?
The manual is very vague in what if anything needs to be done.

Thank You

[Technical Support]

Re: Winterizing 900 ZXI

If you are going to store your craft for a couple months or more, you need to winterize. The purpose of this is to make sure the internal parts of the engine do not start to rust, and to make sure the fuel in the ski does not start to break-down and oxidize.

The first thing is to add stabilizer to the fuel. You can get fuel stabilizer at any marine or auto supply store, just mix it in the ratio according to the back of the bottle, and top off the tank with the stabilized fuel. After you add the stabilizer to the fuel tank, then you have to run the stabilized fuel through the lines and the carbs, you can do that when you flush the engine or on the last ski trip you make, just make sure you have run it enough to pump the stabilized fuel through the carbs.

The next thing you should do is flush the engine as you do after each ride, except you will fog the motor just before blowing out the excess water. Connect the flush kit, start the engine, turn on the water. Let the craft run for about 5 minutes at idle to flush out the cooling system.

See this video for flush procedures: http://server1.sbtontheweb.com/forum...ad.php?t=12000

To fog the ski, you need a can of Fogging Oil, available at nearly any dealer or auto parts store for a buck or two. It's basically foaming oil in a spray can that you can inject into the air intake or directly through the carbs, to coat the engine internally with a thick layer of protective oil. Spray down each carb for 30 seconds.

Some skis will have little plugs on the airbox over the carbs, that you can remove for access. Some skis such as the Yamaha powervalve 1200's have no access, and you are not able to fog the motor properly, you must pour a heavy amount of oil down the plug holes and bump the motor over several times to distribute it as best you can. After fogging is complete, put 1oz of two-stroke oil into each spark plug hole and bump the motor over a few times.

After you finish the fogging procedure, shut off the hose water, blip the throttle a couple times and shut the motor off.

Contributed by Dank - "You do have to drain the exhaust pipe on the 770's. Depending on the year the drain will be located in different spots. But look under the rear of the pipe and there will be a 10mm fitting that you remove and the pipe will drain out all the water."

Lubricate all the ski's grease fittings and cables. You need to have a grease gun and a cable luber comes in very handy. There are several grease points on a craft, usually on the drive train (pto, pump, drive shaft holder).

When all the lubing is complete, then you should remove the battery and place it on a maintenance charge. We recommend a Battery Tender. You can buy a battery tender at motorcycle shops, or several places online. Do not use a trickle charger; if left on too long it could overcharge the battery. A Battery Tender is a special charger that you can leave the battery hooked up to indefinitely. Maintain the battery's electrolyte levels with distilled water.

If you have a Sea-Doo you also need to change your pump oil once a year, when you winterize for storage. See this thread for instructions:
http://server1.sbtontheweb.com/forum...ead.php?t=4088

Now that all the internal work is done the only thing left to do is wash and cover your craft.

[brenton]

Re: Winterizing 900 ZXI

If you are going to store your craft for a couple months or more, you need to winterize. The purpose of this is to make sure the internal parts of the engine do not start to rust, and to make sure the fuel in the ski does not start to break-down and oxidize.

The first thing is to add stabilizer to the fuel. You can get fuel stabilizer at any marine or auto supply store, just mix it in the ratio according to the back of the bottle, and top off the tank with the stabilized fuel. After you add the stabilizer to the fuel tank, then you have to run the stabilized fuel through the lines and the carbs, you can do that when you flush the engine or on the last ski trip you make, just make sure you have run it enough to pump the stabilized fuel through the carbs.

The next thing you should do is flush the engine as you do after each ride, except you will fog the motor just before blowing out the excess water. Connect the flush kit, start the engine, turn on the water. Let the craft run for about 5 minutes at idle to flush out the cooling system.

See this video for flush procedures: http://server1.sbtontheweb.com/forum...ad.php?t=12000

To fog the ski, you need a can of Fogging Oil, available at nearly any dealer or auto parts store for a buck or two. It's basically foaming oil in a spray can that you can inject into the air intake or directly through the carbs, to coat the engine internally with a thick layer of protective oil. Spray down each carb for 30 seconds.

Some skis will have little plugs on the airbox over the carbs, that you can remove for access. Some skis such as the Yamaha powervalve 1200's have no access, and you are not able to fog the motor properly, you must pour a heavy amount of oil down the plug holes and bump the motor over several times to distribute it as best you can. After fogging is complete, put 1oz of two-stroke oil into each spark plug hole and bump the motor over a few times.

After you finish the fogging procedure, shut off the hose water, blip the throttle a couple times and shut the motor off.

Contributed by Dank - "You do have to drain the exhaust pipe on the 770's. Depending on the year the drain will be located in different spots. But look under the rear of the pipe and there will be a 10mm fitting that you remove and the pipe will drain out all the water."

Lubricate all the ski's grease fittings and cables. You need to have a grease gun and a cable luber comes in very handy. There are several grease points on a craft, usually on the drive train (pto, pump, drive shaft holder).

When all the lubing is complete, then you should remove the battery and place it on a maintenance charge. We recommend a Battery Tender. You can buy a battery tender at motorcycle shops, or several places online. Do not use a trickle charger; if left on too long it could overcharge the battery. A Battery Tender is a special charger that you can leave the battery hooked up to indefinitely. Maintain the battery's electrolyte levels with distilled water.

If you have a Sea-Doo you also need to change your pump oil once a year, when you winterize for storage. See this thread for instructions:
http://server1.sbtontheweb.com/forum...ead.php?t=4088

Now that all the internal work is done the only thing left to do is wash and cover your craft.

Stabilizer, lubing and battery I get, but I have never flushed the motor and am not sure that mine can be. The manual has nothing about this in it. I had read this post somewhere else here, and while I realize this is a general procedure. I am not sure about flushing and fogging though I do appreciate the response.