1998 Slxh 1050 Ignition?

[KRASH1]

I was out riding mine this summer, I pulled up and parked for a half our on the beach, then it never started again. It turns over fine, but there is no spark.
I am sure you have all heard this time and time again, but this is a strange one.
I have now replaced the ignition coil, CDI unit, plugs and wires, and of course the cursed stator (twice to make sure I didn't have a faulty part). The only thing that I have not replaced is the Flywheel. The reason I mention that is because while performing the Trigger Coil Test, I have never gotten a resistance reading. I have tried turning the flywheel slow and fast and still not even a slight movement on my ohms meter. Is it possible for a flywheel to loose its charge?
Has anyone come across this before? I am starting to think there is a jinx on this thing......Help please!!!

[KRASH1]

Re: 1998 Slxh 1050 Ignition?

I would also like to add, I installed the "improvement kit" that included the CDI unit and stator together. It required that you cut the ground wire running from the electric box terminal board to the battery ground. I thought that was strange in that as best I can tell, that makes the entire igntion system ground throught the stator harness? Is this right? I have tried reconnecting this wire and it has no effect on my igntion working. I have been talking to a guy at WATCON.com, and he seems honelstly interested in helping me, but I think he also is a little puzzled by this problem. He had suggested I disconnect the black/yellow wire from the handle kill switch and the wire from the temp. switch so that there was no possibility of a kill switch being activated. Any thoughts out there?

I should mention that I have done a continuity test on every, yes every wire in the ski, everything comes up fine. I am down to thinking that the flywheel is not working, although it appears to be in excellent condition, no scars etc...and it is magnetic per my high-tech screwdriver sticking test!
Although the trigger coil test continues to fail!

By the way I have read in several posts about how the "local" Polaris dealer can't fix their jet ski. I am one of the several who would rather do it myself than to let some part-time stock boy play mechanic with this expensive paper weight I have purchased.
Does anyone know if there is a recall notice out on this ignition system and whether it would apply to 2nd or 3rd owner? (as i happen to be)

I would also like to note that the first 2 years that I owned my slxh it ran great, and hauled *** at that! However, I too often ran into those hot engine = no start problems. Which is how this all started......

[SP]

Re: 1998 Slxh 1050 Ignition?

Randy at Watcon is your best bet for getting that thing going, he is THE man for the polaris, I have a pro785 flywheel but I dought that is the problem. Try disconnecting the kill switch and temp switch wires as suggested

[dhd]

Re: 1998 Slxh 1050 Ignition?

When you cut the ground wire as told to with the update kit, you have another black wire in the elec. box that you ground on a lug in the box.

[polaridoo]

Re: 1998 Slxh 1050 Ignition?

Not sure what the 'improved cdi / stator kit' consists of but I know there was an issue with CDI's where a jumper wire had to be added. Even though you don't have a 2000 model year ski I am 99% sure it still applies.

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http://server1.sbtontheweb.com/forum...ighlight=diode

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Here it is below. Credit to Tim for posting it on another board. It looks like the SLX is not included though. All the other 2000 models are. I bet it still applies.

Service Bulletin # PWC-00-05
August 8, 2000

Subject
Add Jumper Wire to CDI
Model Affected: Serial Number Range:
2000 Virage (W005197D) ALL
2000 Virage TX (W005199D) ALL
2000 Pro 1200 (W004999D) ALL
2000 Genesis (W005099D) ALL

SCENARIO #1 MODELS WITH DUAL FUNCTION START/STOP BUTTON

Symptom: Engine will not turn over when engine is warm. After stopping the engine and trying
to re-start the engine when warm, the starter motor will not turn over. In this scenario, the CDI
remains powered up after the engine is shut off, causing the CDI to think the engine is still run-ning
even though it is not. After the engine and CDI cool, it will re-start normally. Install jumper
wire PN 2460928 to resolve this issue, following the instructions below.

SCENARIO #2 MODELS WITH SEPARATE START/STOP BUTTON

Symptom: Engine turns over but will not start when engine is warm. After stopping the engine
and trying to re-start the engine when warm, the engine will crank, but not start. Again, in this
scenario, the CDI remains powered up after the engine is shut off, causing the CDI to think the
engine is still running even though it is not. After the engine and CDI cool, it will re-start normally.
Install jumper wire PN 2460928 to resolve this issue, following the instructions below.
Parts Required
Quantity
Part No. Description
1 2460928 Harness, Jumper, PWC

Repair Procedure
Step 1
1. Disconnect the NEGATIVE (-) battery cable from
the battery.
2. Open electrical box.
3. Disconnect RED/PURPLE wire from CDI box.
4. Clean the FEMALE end of the RED/PURPLE wire,
disconnected in the previous step and apply electri-cal
tape to seal the open end. Tuck the FEMALE
end of the RED/PURPLE wire under the CDI box.
RED/PURPLE wire from CDI
PWC-00-05 Page 2 of 2
Step 2
1. Install the RED/PURPLE end of the jumper wire,
PN2460928, on to RED/PURPLE MALEconnector
from the CDI box.
2. Install the open ORANGE connector end to the
open ORANGE spade on the terminal board.
Step 3
1. Once the jumper wire is connected, carefully pack
the wires inside the electrical box cover, making
sure that wires are not kinked or damaged on any
internal component. Install the electrical box on the
mounting plate and lock the latches.
Wrap with electrical tape,
tuck under CDI
Connect RED/PURPLE
jumper wire to RED/
PURPLE male connec-tor
from CDI box.
Connect open ORANGE end to the
ORANGE spade connector on the
terminal board.
2. Reconnect the NEGATIVE (-) battery cable to the
NEGATIVE battery terminal.

Customer Notification

Please perform this Service Bulletin on all affected units in your inventory. Contact owners of delivered
units immediately and make arrangements to perform this warranty repair.
Sincerely,
POLARIS SALES INC.
Craig M. Wilfahrt
Manager, Service/Technical Training

[KRASH1]

Re: 1998 Slxh 1050 Ignition?

Well I am finally at the end of my rope, I have now updated the entire ignition system. To summarize: new plugs, plug wires, 2 new cdi units, 2 new stator assemblies, & 2 new coils. I have performed continuity tests on all the wires at least twice. I finally figured out how to make the Trigger coil test work with a 9 volt battery, they dont tell you that the rest of the ignition system needs to be grounded to get it to work.

Anyway, so I have reinstalled all this crap over and over, and reviewed all the half-*** instructions and wiring diagrams. The location of the wiring harnesses and the electrical box is F...ing horrible,. that engineer should be fired and shot.
I finally crafted a positive cable extension from the battery so that I could get to everything. Moving on, I have tried to get a spark over and over, the engine turns over fine, but no spark. I have tried unplugging the kill switch, the temp switch, the fuel sending unit, and the trim switch. Nothing changed.
So I thought there has got to be a way to MAKE this thing fire a single spark.
After a lot of thoughtful diagram study I guesstimated that the brown lead going to the stator should make a difference. Sooooo I took a wire and attached a small 12 volt light bulb to one end and soldered a needle to the base of it...it gets better.....so I first tried unplugging the brown butt connectors and I connected my wire/bulb directly through the reset switch, then the needle to the brown lead going to the stator. My thought was that this would be a low voltage that would also be restrained by the filament in the light bulb. Nothing, notta, zero spark.
So I then tried connecting to the other brown lead going to the cdi unit, nothing! I am getting pissed at this point, but keep going. SO next I reconnected the brown wires, and for Sh*ts and giggles I attached my lead to both the brown leads hooked together, holy crap I got fire on all 3 plugs!!!!!
I was happy and sad all at the same time. Glad to see a friggin spark, but lost as to why I could essentially force it to spark by powering the cdi and stator with a "jumper cable" kinda like what "TIM" had suggested.

So I then tried "TIMS" idea.....Nothing!!!!
But I should note that my rig will still work so nothing is hurt as far as I can tell.

So as I step off of my soap box, can anyone help me? I am ready to either sell it for parts or make a nice bon fire out of it.
I could take it to a dealer, but I get the feeling that it would cost more than it is worth (1998 SLXH High Performance Triple).

Is there an alternate wiring diagram that I need to make the system fire?
I started second guessing the installation I did of the stator, which seemed pretty idiot proof to me, but I guess anything is possible. Although even if it was 180 out is would still fire, even if it was wrong.
One last thought, to this point I have not reinstalled the oil pump, sending unit, or fuel tank, since all the above are hell to get in and out. Do either of these have the ability to ground the electrical system if not reading an acceptable level of fluid? I have tried testing the system with these wires connected and disconnected, but it didn't seem to make a difference.
Is there a "proper" way to jumper this "upgrade" ignition system so that it acutally works?

Lost in confusion...

[skooter]

Re: 1998 Slxh 1050 Ignition?

Krash1,

Talk to Pro1200 or Liquidforracing @ www.go-polaris.net. Those guys are sharp with Polaris crafts.

Skooter

[ShowMePro1200]

Re: 1998 Slxh 1050 Ignition?

Or since you're in St. Louis, go to Seebold (heck call Tim himself if you're worried about getting an inferior mechanic, he's a pretty good guy, met him a few times in Osage Beach). I'd have done that a long time ago, no offense intended. You've spent way too much time and money trying to diagnose it yourself. Spring riding season is upon us very soon.

[ShowMePro1200]

Re: 1998 Slxh 1050 Ignition?

Please do keep us posted on this though, I may have it happen to me someday (I hope not) and I need to be aware of what is was/how it was corrected. Hope you get it figured out.:)

Thanks

[Alwet]

Re: 1998 Slxh 1050 Ignition?

this sounds almost exactly like what I am going thru. See this
http://www.pwctoday.com/viewtopic.ph...9210cd1638a1f7

[KRASH1]

Re: 1998 Slxh 1050 Ignition?

So, it has been a while since I have been able to get back on here.
I made some decisions to try and make some progress, so grab your popcorn.

As I mentioned before, the brown lead seemed to be a magical key in this kingdom of inferior wiring techiniques. So I began to look for a way to power this system without my makeshift light bulb rig. Through out my testing I discovered that the connected brown wires only needed power long enough for the engine to start, once that occured I could disconnect the jumper and it would remain running. After I shut it off and try to restart the engine I have to reattach my momentary jumper or it will not start.
After this I intially thought that I could hook a momentary jumper wire to the start button wiring in order to get the intial power needed to allow spark to occur. This did not work....#@$*!!!! So then I decided to hook a constant power from the same location on the board as the red/purple wire. Now this did work, started and runs great. So I decided good enough for now, I reinstalled the gas tank, oil pump, fuel sending unit, everything, I even put the seats back on it and called it good. The next couple of days after that I would walk out and bump -start the thing just to make sure that it hadn't run down the battery. It all seemed fine, until about a week later, I went to start it and the battery was completely drained...just as I suspected the constant feed killed the battery even without the engine running.

So my idiotic attempt hath failed me, although I was hoping to get it out on the water, thinking that maybe if I could run it for a while, and get it hot from normal engine temp that whatever was messed up may reset itself and allow me to disconnect my jumper wire. I may still try this! Fingers crossed.

Anyway I read the posts from Alwet (see previous post) I would say that we are both suffering from a similar issue. I have been yet to give in to taking it to a dealer, fortunately I have been working to much to deal with this issue consistently (out of sight out of mind ya know). I would love to get this thing fixed, and it may come to a dealer next.

Which reminds me, the new CDI I installed has a port on it that seems could very easily be hooked up to a laptop for diagnostics? Does anybody know if there is software out for this? I would be drooling to get my hands on it!!!!

Anyway thought I would keep you all posted though....if anyone has a brainstorm please let me know!

Soap box out...

[Alwet]

Re: 1998 Slxh 1050 Ignition?

Krash,
It seems that my ignitions problems are fixed. I was worried about starting in the water, extra load on the motor pulling the voltage down, but that hasn't been a problem. Fresh clean electrical connections all around and a new Batt. You mentioned the TSB for warm engines not starting. I came accross it on the BB. Good luck, post with progress.


Service Bulletin # PWC-00-05
August 8, 2000
Subject
Add Jumper Wire to CDI
Model Affected: Serial Number Range:
2000 Virage (W005197D) ALL
2000 Virage TX (W005199D) ALL
2000 Pro 1200 (W004999D) ALL
2000 Genesis (W005099D) ALL
SCENARIO #1 MODELS WITH DUAL FUNCTION START/STOP BUTTON
Symptom: Engine will not turn over when engine is warm. After stopping the engine and trying
to re-start the engine when warm, the starter motor will not turn over. In this scenario, the CDI
remains powered up after the engine is shut off, causing the CDI to think the engine is still run-ning
even though it is not. After the engine and CDI cool, it will re-start normally. Install jumper
wire PN 2460928 to resolve this issue, following the instructions below.
SCENARIO #2 MODELS WITH SEPARATE START/STOP BUTTON
Symptom: Engine turns over but will not start when engine is warm. After stopping the engine
and trying to re-start the engine when warm, the engine will crank, but not start. Again, in this
scenario, the CDI remains powered up after the engine is shut off, causing the CDI to think the
engine is still running even though it is not. After the engine and CDI cool, it will re-start normally.
Install jumper wire PN 2460928 to resolve this issue, following the instructions below.
Parts Required
Quantity
Part No. Description
1 2460928 Harness, Jumper, PWC
Repair Procedure
Step 1
1. Disconnect the NEGATIVE (-) battery cable from
the battery.
2. Open electrical box.
3. Disconnect RED/PURPLE wire from CDI box.
4. Clean the FEMALE end of the RED/PURPLE wire,
disconnected in the previous step and apply electri-cal
tape to seal the open end. Tuck the FEMALE
end of the RED/PURPLE wire under the CDI box.
RED/PURPLE wire from CDI
PWC-00-05 Page 2 of 2
Step 2
1. Install the RED/PURPLE end of the jumper wire,
PN2460928, on to RED/PURPLE MALEconnector
from the CDI box.
2. Install the open ORANGE connector end to the
open ORANGE spade on the terminal board.
Step 3
1. Once the jumper wire is connected, carefully pack
the wires inside the electrical box cover, making
sure that wires are not kinked or damaged on any
internal component. Install the electrical box on the
mounting plate and lock the latches.
Wrap with electrical tape,
tuck under CDI
Connect RED/PURPLE
jumper wire to RED/
PURPLE male connec-tor
from CDI box.
Connect open ORANGE end to the
ORANGE spade connector on the
terminal board.
2. Reconnect the NEGATIVE (-) battery cable to the
NEGATIVE battery terminal.
Customer Notification
Please perform this Service Bulletin on all affected units in your inventory. Contact owners of delivered
units immediately and make arrangements to perform this warranty repair.
Sincerely,
POLARIS SALES INC.