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I was out at the lake today and at wide open throttle my 95 sl 750 would die. It happened repeatedly. It took it a while to start back up as well, hadd to use a lot of choke. After it started, it would bog like if had been flooded. I could ride fine at half throttle with a few misses. I checked for electricals at the stop switch and everything was fine. I then played with the spark plug boots and threw some dielectric grease in them. It operated fine after that. Do you think it is time for new spark plug boots. I was planning on changing them out anyway this winter, but I guess I should go ahead and do that now. Do you think that is what the problem was. Just a bad connection at the sparkplug? Let me know, thanks.
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It sounds to me like you were seizing it. After the first time, you should have either towed it, or REALLY babied it back to shore and pulled the heads to do an inspection - I bet by now you have done some nice top-end damage to at least one cylinder and have some detonation damage to a piston. Check your compression, and i bet you'll see one cylinder low now. Pull the head then and inspect it. After you seize, you damage the ring seal. You get a lot of blow-by, and that cylinder runs rich, along with low compression, making it run like crap right after a seizure. It will probably also smoke quite a bit more for a time. -
Do you really think that I seized it? I hope not. I will do a compression check soon. Do you think that I seized it even after I messed with the plug wires and it ran fine? I am sure to check the rpm's when running it and there was no loss. It also started fine after I got a good connection with the plug wire. I will run a compression check tomorrow and let you know what I find out. Keep your fingers crossed.Comment
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If you seize one cylinder, and it looses compression, you may not see a drop in top RPMs - you would see a decrease in bottom-end performance though.
It's possible that you happen to have some bad electrical connections, but it just doesn't sound like it. Bad plug connections don't cause bogging, unless you were sitting around near idle, misfiring for a while, and just loading it up.
Hopefully, your compression will still be even, and it's just electrical...Comment
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It only bogged when it got started up again. Since I was using heavy choke, I think that it had just flooded it temporarily. As soon as it cleared it ran strong. If I let it idle and floored it there was not hesitiation or bog, after it had been started again. After I got the boot adjusted I rode it for about 1 hour or so with nor hesitation or bog. There was no noticable difference in power output either. regardless, I will check the compression tomorrow. What is the corrector procedure for doing this anyhow. Also, how about putting pictures of plug readings on the internet. This would help me get a 100% clear picture of what they should look like instead of about 90% sure by description, choclate brown on bottom ring...Comment
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OK, with that new information, it doesn't sound like a seizure.
You should see around 120-125 psi on each cylinder when you test it.
Take all your plugs out. Install the gauge and hold the throttle wide open and crank it for 3-4 seconds per cylinder to take a reading.
I can put some pics up tommarow.Comment
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Thanks Bryan, I was starting to be a little scared there for a minute. I will test the compression at lunch today and let you know what I find. The pics will help a lot. I'm surprised you haven't posted any before. You will always be on top of your competition based on your customer support alone. Also, do you sell the spark plug boots or will I have to go somewhere ele like DCT Sports?Comment
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Here is a decent shot - when I get time I'll post a page on the site with better ones...the important things are to have a dry plug, a light color coating on the rim, and a nice dark coating on the insulator.
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Woo-Hoo!!!!!!!!!!!!! I had 125psi on all three cylinders. I trimmed back the three ends that go into the boot. On the last spark plug boot, I couldn't see any wires. I am guessing it was failing to spark (At least getting to the plug) at WOT or near WOT. Thanks for the picture. Mine aren't quite that dark (more of a brown), I guess I need to richen them up a bit. I've already turned them out about 1/2 turn from when I got it (used). I'd rather err on the rich side than the lean side. Also noticed that you are selling that sl750. If I had the money (Which I don't), I'd love to buy it from you. It is a great deal.Comment
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Sweet!Comment
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Next time you do a compression check make sure to put the plugs into the boots and ground them on the head. This wasn't mentioned and is good to do so you don't burn up your ignition.Comment
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Oops, I hope it didn't mess up my ignition.Comment
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Although yes, it's good advice, and yes, there is the possibility of damaging the CDI by cranking ungrounded, and yes, i will try to always remember to include that in my future advice - I can honestly say that it is a very rare occurance, to actually have that type of damage. I have personally done hundreds of compression checks on a multitude of crafts and brands, and never had it happen. Although I *have* heard of some cases, so yes, it happens. Perhaps those cases were cranking for extended periods of time or something, I don't know. I can say that I never did it for more than a few seconds per cylinder to get a reading.Comment
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Hey tom, I delt with an issue on a clients polaris 650 machine that sounds very much like the problem you were having, it turned out to be a bad cdi unit. after replacing the the cdi the problem was solved.Comment
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I hope not. it seems to be running fine right now. I'll see how it runs on the water tomorrow. I'll let ya'll know then. It runs a helluva lot better now that I replaced the caps (at least out of water).Comment
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