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  • SL750 "Flipper" (the porpose)

    Hi y'all,
    I just found this site recently and have learned a bunch just reading the posts here. A couple of specifics though...
    I bought a used '95 SL750 two years ago, got several problems worked out in the first season and then last season it ran good first time every time. Problem is, the ride is TERRIBLE!!! It jumps up and down out of the water like a fish so I've nicknamed it "Flipper"(along with a few names you don't want printed here.) It does this even in flat water!!! Trim it out 'til the nose digs water and it might smooth out for a bit, hit a differnt chop at the mouth of the cove and it starts all over again. I can't beleive that any manufacturer would put out something stock that rides as bad as this!!! Maybe it's not stock?
    ?Is there any way for me to visually tell if the previous owner may have installed a different pump-wedge that may be exaserbating this problem? (i.e. measure the approximate thickness, or the amount of exposed threads on the mounting bolts or whatever?)
    I understand from reading here that a different ride plate and an intake grate to reduce the resulting cavatition is the answer to the vast majority of my complaints with this. Several posts have mentioned that Polaris has these parts available for around $35.00 apiece however I've gone to two local dealers and all they would show me were the R&D pieces at $92.95 each.
    ?Does anyone have the part numbers that I can use to ask for the less expensive pieces? Does polaris still offer these parts or were the dealers just trying to smoke my wallet?
    My family is just using these ski's for rec. riding on Lake of the Ozarks in which boat chop can get very bad. I don't want to tie up a lot of money in these old boats, I am just looking for a good ride out of it for a few years until I can buy that new Seadoo RX that makes me drool like a high-school kid at a car-show.
    Everyone that has mentioned the O_P pieces loves them but no one has mentioned what they cost. Are they more expensive than the R&D units and/or would they be worth my consideration now or just later on when I get that new Ski?
    Thanx and God bless,
    Smoof

  • #2
    I'll let all the Polaris experts answer the rest, but I've seen your Ocean Pro rideplate for around $150.

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    • #3
      The R&D grate from Polaris used to be $29.95 but now it's $59.95 . The part number is 2871560. http://www.hotseatperformance.com has it for $35.95 . It is good for choppy water but you will lose a good 2 mph in smooth water. I would recommend you get the OP rideplate. You can call Ken at OP at 1-800-553-6650 . He sells direct for under $100 or you can check ebay because he lists them there once in awhile. The OP rideplate will resolve most of the porpoising but the SL750 doesn't really porpoise to begin with. It will if it has the extended pump kit put on or a wedge but the OP cures it and is the single best mod to any Polaris 2 seater hull wether it porpoises or not.

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      • #4
        Smoof:

        Go by Seebold Sports in Osage Beach (just down past Super Wal-Mart). I didn't buy a rideplate for my SLT 750, I did buy the R&D intake for around $29. I heard the intakes were now up again a bit (I think Polaris had a deal where they bought a truckload of them), but who knows? Maybe they'll do you a great deal if you're talking rideplate too.

        Even if you don't go to them for those pieces, do go to them for other parts. I've bought there, they are very helpful, talked to the mechanic there for about an hour one Saturday (of course it was a slow winter day though).

        Sounds to me like you've got more of a rideplate/wedge problem than an intake problem, the way you're talking. I put the intake on to hook up to the rough lake waves better, but found that I lost 1 mph in the end. I'm going to leave the R&D on until I see what its like come spring/summer, may put the old intake on just to compare again. I wish someone would come up with a way to switch them quickly (rubber insert??), instead of using RVT sealant and letting it dry for 6-8 hours.

        I'm out of Jeff City, ride around the 3 mm., just bought my machine last fall. Where are you at, just out of curiosity?

        [ March 22, 2002, 08:30 AM: Message edited by: ShowMeSLT750 ]

        Comment


        • #5
          Hey thanx alot Sealion for the info. I followed your link and found the grate. I may well decide to go ahead and pony-up the extra dough for the Ocean-Pro rideplate if I can get the intake for $35.
          ?How can I tell if it has an extended pump and what is its main advantages, more speed or a better holeshot?
          I am definately adding a rideplate because, and I am not exaggeratinga bit when I say that this thing hops across the water like a frog on perfectly flat water sometimes! I am very nervous about doing any WFO runs even in good water, afraid it will start bucking at full speed. It has nearly thrown me a few times this way!
          The ski is basicly fast enough for me and 1-2 MPH on the top either way is no biggie but I am curious if the O-P plate will help also with the holeshot? Will it help pop the hull on top of the water faster? No boat makes any speed while still plowing water.
          Hey ShowMe! Friend, you got some BAD water on your end of the lake around the 3MM. I don't know how you ride a ski in it bro! :D The last time ventured up as far up as the Grand Glaize bridge (we had lunch-n-beers at the "Salty Dog" by the way)in our runabout, those big cruisers nearly washed us out of the boat. It was like being in an angry ocean but the chop was coming at you from all directions and those 45 footers with triple outdrives were churning it all up! (sound familier?) Anyway... I'm down about the 37MM out of Camdenton. Trailer yours down here sometime, you can find much friendlier water most of the time especially if you get far enough off the main channel.
          Thanx for reminding me about "Seebold's". I did buy something from them once and they were very helpful and friendly. Try not to go to "The Yacht Club" (Sea-Doo dealer there by Tantara), they will REALLY smoke ur wallet! I took in a '94 Sea-Doo SP to their shop for a look/see. Diagnosis was bad compression, the bad news...they wanted $1800.00 just to do a ring job on a two-cylinder! That price of course did not include the possibility of damaged piston/cylinders ($795.00 more for that!) The cost of the compression test was $135.00 (Thank you vey much.)
          I cleared out of there as fast as I could get loaded back up. I bought rings, gaskets, and a manual for $200.00, gonna tear it down next week and hope thats the extent of it.
          I am soooooooo glad to have found SBT Engines. I have been sweating the prices that dealer gave me since last July. Now I know where to get a complete engine ready to rock if I find I need it for the same money the dealer was going to cook me for on just the cylinders alone!!!
          God Bless,
          Smoof

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          • #6
            If you are hopping out of the water you will not loose any mph by staying in it [img]graemlins/buck.gif[/img] So I would not expect you to loose any mph with a ride plate from your current setup, probably gain 1-2 mph. I got my OP on ebay for $80 but have not installed it yet. The only boat I have seen porpoise like you describe is an old Tigershark (and every one I saw porpoised like that), completely hopping out of the water, could see under the entire lenght of the boat. I assume there is a problem (like a wedge or something) that is making you propoise.

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            • #7
              Yes, it's a bit rough down by our place, we're right by Village Marina.

              Been down here for 40 years now, seen it transform from a fairly quiet lake to what it is today. We do alright, though. Ride in the early morning and later in the evening. Also, we're only 40 minutes door-to-door so evenings during the week (nice and quiet) are not out of the question.

              Might try to put in at different places on the lake this summer.

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              • #8
                smoof, It's hard to describe the extended pump for you to visualize it. The best way I can try is to check where your impeller is located. If it is in the first section of the pump part that mounts to the hull then you have the stock short pump? If the impeller is in the second 4" added spacer section right behind the first part that mounts to the hull then you have an extended pump? The extended pump is good for a 2mph gain but because of the rideplate that comes with it it porpoises badly. Also, with the extended pump, it sticks way past the rear deck. This is another way to tell but since you don't have a referance, it probably won't help you.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I think the stock rideplate on a 95 is flush with the rear of the hull, if you have the extended pump, then the ride plate sticks out about 4 inches from the back of the hull. To see if it has a wedge, look between the pump stator section, and the exit nozzle (not the trim or steering nozzle, but the parts attached with 4 big bolts that hold all the crap to the hull.). if there is a wedge shaped piece of aluminum sandwiched between the 2, then you have a wedge.
                  <a href="http://www.wetwolf.com/" target="_new"><img src="http://www.wetwolf.com/images/hurrsigpic.gif" width="400" height="100"></a><br /><br />Bruce Wolford<br />Wet Wolf Technologies - Purveyor of Performance Pump Parts<br />(509) 280-5444<br /><a href="http://www.wetwolf.com" target="_blank">Wet Wolf Tech</a><br /><br />PWC Race Director<br />Northwest Water Competition<br /> <a href="http://www.nwh2oracer.com/ijsba" target="_blank">http://www.nwh2oracer.com</a>

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                  • #10
                    Hey Thanx Bruce,
                    The rideplate is flush with the hull and I just looked up "its ol' address" and there does appear to be a natural-colored aluminum spacer between the pump and the hull. I can't tell if its thicker on one end or the other because of the recess but it is unpainted while the rest of the drive assy. is painted black. I guess we found the culpret. Thank you.
                    ?What thinkest thou this... Should I just remove the **** thing asn let it fly or does the O_P rideplate make a world of difference and I better get one quick?
                    By the way Bruce, I did happen to peruse the WetWolf website and I checked out your Adjust-A-Thrust drive system. Pretty innovative dude, it looks cool.
                    G'day
                    Smoof

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                    • #11
                      Another thing to watch for is to make sure the pump wedge is in correct and not upside down. The thicker part of the wedge should be up. correct me if I am wrong bruce.

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                      • #12
                        I've never seen one to trim down. Wedges are almost always used to trim up, which means the rear of the nozzle lifted, which means the thicker section of the edge at the bottom of the front of the nozzle.

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                        • #13
                          riderX, ---------------wrong. Thick part at the bottom. is that why your pro is slow? :D :D
                          I'll be over tonite with the cyl heads and to talk about your carbs. Maybe while I'm there, i should check your wedge!?
                          Smoof, if you remove the wedge, you might have to mess around with the water supply tube to get it the correct length. But first try a ride plate, and you might decide to keep the wedge.
                          <a href="http://www.wetwolf.com/" target="_new"><img src="http://www.wetwolf.com/images/hurrsigpic.gif" width="400" height="100"></a><br /><br />Bruce Wolford<br />Wet Wolf Technologies - Purveyor of Performance Pump Parts<br />(509) 280-5444<br /><a href="http://www.wetwolf.com" target="_blank">Wet Wolf Tech</a><br /><br />PWC Race Director<br />Northwest Water Competition<br /> <a href="http://www.nwh2oracer.com/ijsba" target="_blank">http://www.nwh2oracer.com</a>

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                          • #14
                            The OP rideplate is a perfect compliment to the wedge. I had a 6* wedge in my previous SL750 both before and after the extended pump swap. I also used the OP plate and I was happy with the combo. A wedge on the stock short pump will shoot a massive roost if trimmed all the way up. Looks like the speed boat roosts [img]smile.gif[/img]
                            BTW, I am using a 6* wedge in my current SLX780 that has the extended pump stock but my OP rideplate from the SL750 is on there. No way I was selling my SL750 without taking the OP plate off and using it on the SLX780. The OP palte for me would be worth its weight in gold, LOL.

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                            • #15
                              Do what shomeslt750 said, go to Seebold Sports in Osage Beach, they can fix you up, I know cause I work there...we have lots of aftermarket parts in stock.

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