Stinger pipe

[JonBoy]

Is there a gasket that is supposed to go between the Stinger pipe and the pipe leading to the waterbox? It looks as if the previous owner used an orange gasket maker.

Is there better way to separate this connection other than backing the nut all the way off the band/clamp?

This is on a 97 GSX.

My last post asked about my new SBT I just installed. It ran for about a minute and stalled, and hasn't been able to start back up again. I was referred to the infamous SBT carb rebuild diaphragm problem. Should I have pop-off checked before changing to OEM diaphragms?

[Bill O'Neal2]

Re: Stinger pipe

The only gasket is a copper flat gasket that lays in the recessed area of the pipe joint. Use Orange high temp silicone to seal it back up when you install the chamber to the headpipe. There is no other way to seperate the two pieces of the exhaust pipe.

I usually try to avoid ever seperating that joint, unless it was leaking exhaust gasses. It can be a difficult joint to re-seal and is not easy to clean or to work on. It can be difficult to reseal the joint in the ski. I find a way to remove the pipe without distrubing the joint. Some models allow the pipe to come out without the hassels of breaking the joint, others, I move the motor to give room for the pipe to come out in one piece.

It is wise to always check pop off before you install carbs. More to find a mistake than anything else. If you have the correct needles and seats and springs, the pressure will be allright to run the motor.

[JonBoy]

Re: Stinger pipe

Thanks Bill. I guess it's too late for the exhaust joint, since I took it apart when putting in the new engine. Oh well....


The pop-off will only test needle valve pressure, correct? I was looking for a confirmation on the leaking diaphragms before buying OEM and re-rebuilding. The engine ran for about a minute and stalled. Turns over real well, and exhaust comes out when turning over (compression and spark), but it just won't start. TS said it was a good place to start, so without further ado.... I'll get to it.

[Bill O'Neal2]

Re: Stinger pipe

Not holding pressure could be a sign that the diaphrams are holding the needles open.

[Danny Roszell]

Re: Stinger pipe

Bill,

The clymer manual talks about connecting the pipes and leaving the clamp loose enough to allow it to twist or move. Then tighten down the mounting bolts to torque and lastly tighten down the clamp. Do you agree with this procedure and what should we look for or check when installing this pipe clamp?

Thanks in advance

[Bill O'Neal2]

Re: Stinger pipe

Yes, that is the proper way to secure the pipe before you finish tightening the clamp. You should look for proper seating of the two exhaust pipes, as there is a depressed area in one and an extended part in the other where they meet and they MUST align before you tighten the clamp. When you finsh the installation, start the motor and look carefully for an exhaust leak.

[Danny Roszell]

Re: Stinger pipe

Thank you for the reply Bill.