Okay I am wondering as I just replaced ALL the fuel lines in the 1995 GTS if it matters what direction you run the little inline splicers. When you install the little plastic pieces in the fuel lines on the line to the tank and on the return line does it matter what direction you put them on. I know I may be reaching here but I am trying to think of every little thing I can to figure why after replacing all fuel lines all clamps and rebuilding the carb and making sure that the check valves are in great shape that I still am not getting any fuel to the carb. The only other thing I can think of is it is the gas tank itself but it does not leak as I can blow air into the tank and it will hold pressure. I have replaced the fuel seperator bowl witha known good one form my XP so I know it is not the problem and have run the one on the GTS on the XP and it works fine. Any thoughts where to go from here?????????? I am almost ready to sell it.
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Re: Fuel line routing
Are you sure you have the right lines on the right connections on the tank? There should be a vent, main, reserve and return. Pull the fuel pickup assembly and make sure that all the lines are connected properly.
Also, try running a line straight from the reserve connection on the tank to the carbs. You also will need to prime the carbs. Shoot some fogging oil in the cyls first, then pull the choke and crank it for 10 seconds. This will allow the carb to pull the fuel through the system. Remember, it has to fill up the seperator bowl first, then it will go to the carbs, so it might take a few tries of 10 sec cranking to get everything filled and primed.Dan Solie -
04 RXP (the "Instigator")
94 xp (freestyle mods)
95 xp (faster than the 94)
JS550 (the toothpick & the loaner)
For FREE Seadoo Manuals - Click HERE!!!!
http://www.tripleateam.com/water/v/U...ery/Dan-Solie/
**** Please do not PM me. I don't do PM's.... Please post your question on the correct forum so that all can see and learn. Thanks! ****
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Re: Fuel line routing
Dontcare,
I have changed ALL fuel lines including the pulse line.
Dsolie,
Yes all lines are ran correctly. They are ran as Bill O'neal as specified in another post regarding this topic. You may have answered my question as I did not prime the carbs I was unfamiliar with this However I am working on the boat today and will do this and report back findings. I will also try the reserve line straight to the carb and see what I get.
One thing I would like an answer on is does it matter which way you install the inline plastic pieces when putting the fuel lines together.
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Re: Fuel line routing
Frankey,
I am unsure to what peices you are referring to. Maybe a pic would help. The only thing that should inturrupt your fuel flow would be the selector switch and a fuel filter. Those all have arrows on them to the direction of flow.
I wonder if somebody else (previous owner) spliced the fuel lines for some reason or another. Do you hae a primer kit? Those have little plactic "t's" that are non-directional (anyway will work).
I bet that if you run a straight line then you will be golden, and she will fire.
One option, that is sometimes a good one, is to bypass the selector switch all together. Run a line from your reserve through your fuel bowl then to the carbs. Just keep an eye on the fuel level while riding. You can bypass the fuel bowl for a test of the system, but make sure you have it hooked up for riding.Dan Solie -
04 RXP (the "Instigator")
94 xp (freestyle mods)
95 xp (faster than the 94)
JS550 (the toothpick & the loaner)
For FREE Seadoo Manuals - Click HERE!!!!
http://www.tripleateam.com/water/v/U...ery/Dan-Solie/
**** Please do not PM me. I don't do PM's.... Please post your question on the correct forum so that all can see and learn. Thanks! ****
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Re: Fuel line routing
Dsolie,
Attached is a pic of the pieces I was referring to. My wife has gone to go get some new fuel line and I am going to try as you said.Now this piece is on both the line coming from the bowl to the inlet on the carb and the out on the carb going back to the return on the tank.
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Re: Fuel line routing
I looked in all 4 of my ski's and I don't have a peice that resembles that at all!
It shouldnt stop the flow of fuel though. Look through it make sure it's a straight shot, not some sort of redneck one way check valve. If you wife is getting more fuel line, eliminate as many splices as possible, those are just more things to check on and worry about.
Maybe the peice was used to siphon the fuel out of the tank? Connect a larger peice to the end and start sucking lol. Unless somebody else chimes on here on the importance of that peice, ditch it!Dan Solie -
04 RXP (the "Instigator")
94 xp (freestyle mods)
95 xp (faster than the 94)
JS550 (the toothpick & the loaner)
For FREE Seadoo Manuals - Click HERE!!!!
http://www.tripleateam.com/water/v/U...ery/Dan-Solie/
**** Please do not PM me. I don't do PM's.... Please post your question on the correct forum so that all can see and learn. Thanks! ****
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Re: Fuel line routing
One of the splices was about 6 inches from the end going to the carb and on eis about halfway in the line I am taking both out and going to see what happens I fogged to prime and still did not get the fuel to start flowing I put air in the tank to try and pressurize the tank and it would flow until I hooked it up but still nothing into the carbs. Im totally at a loss here Ill remove the splices in the morning before going riding on the XP then see what happens without the splices. They are straight pieces not check valve or anything.
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Re: Fuel line routing
IMO - go ride the xp, get a break!!!! i would ditch the inline butt connectors you showed picture of.
you wrote "I put air in the tank to try and pressurize the tank and it would flow until I hooked it up but still nothing into the carbs" sounds like you got fuel to flow to carb inlet fuel line - since it is recent carb rebuild - bouble check rebuild - i bet something is amiss in there. if you need the mikuni manual it can be downloaded here
http://www.mikuni.com/fs-manuals.html
did you pressure test the fuel system after you installed new lines - just make sure you are not sucking air instead of fuel. needs to hold 5psi for ten minutes - pinch off tank vent and pressureize thru tank air inlet with fuel selector off, then with fuel selector on - if you lose pressure find leak, if ok make sure tank vent pressure relief is working when you release pressure.
i generally use the simple redneck method to solve problems. in this case if you cant suck fuel from the carb inlet hose - work your way back to the tank, if hoses are clear check in tank and pick up. if you can suck fuel from tank - go from carbs to crankcase/pulse line.
good luck
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Re: Fuel line routing
You can try some starting fluid as well, get the engine actually to fire, that might get enough boost to get the fuel flowing... Other than that I am at a loss. I agree with Ohell as far as the tank situation, doubel check your methood and outcome of the tank check.
Did you bypass the fuel bowl? If you did, I am at a loss. If you still used it during your check process, you might have pinched the oring in there, hence loosing the needed pressure to pull the fuel.
While you were cranking the engine, did you have the choke pulled? You should have. Another way is to put your hand over the carbs to restrict the air while cranking. The fogging oil is just to keep the cyls lubed up while you are fiddling.
One other thing... Have you checked the fuel pickup screens? Iside the tank at the end of the pickup tubes, there are little filters. Check those too.
Two stupid questions for you too.... Is the gas fresh and do you have the gas cap on while cranking? Both of these answers should be yes.Dan Solie -
04 RXP (the "Instigator")
94 xp (freestyle mods)
95 xp (faster than the 94)
JS550 (the toothpick & the loaner)
For FREE Seadoo Manuals - Click HERE!!!!
http://www.tripleateam.com/water/v/U...ery/Dan-Solie/
**** Please do not PM me. I don't do PM's.... Please post your question on the correct forum so that all can see and learn. Thanks! ****
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Re: Fuel line routing
I'm far from expert here but I will chime in a couple thoughts.
As I understand the fuel system on these things the pulse line goes from the engine to the carb which causes the pumb diaphram to pull fuel from the tank. For all this to work there cannot be any air leaks in the system. It sounds to me like you have an air leak somewhere. To check this I would disconnect the fuel line at the carb and verify that the system back to the tank will hold pressure. Not just the tank but the whole system from the tank to the carbs. If not, find out where it's leaking. If it holds pressure then run a short piece of fuel line into a container of fuel as close to the carb as you can get. If the carb does not pull fuel from the temporary container then your problem is either the pulse line or the pump diaphram. This method will at least give you a direction to look for the problem.
As for the white plastic connectors...My '96 SPX had them on when I redid the fuel lines also. They are butt simple connectors not one way valves or filters. The only thing I could figure they were for was to make it easier to remove and replace the carbs w/o having to mess with trying to connect the supply and return lines in tight quarters at the carbs. Basically you can connect all the lines to the carb, install the carbs and then make the fuel connections where there is a little more room. They can be eliminated if you wish.
Hope this helps.
DaveAny technology, sufficiently advanced, will appear as magic.
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Re: Fuel line routing
Dsolie,
Yes the cap is on and the gas is about four days old. When I thought I had figured everything out I went and put new fuel in so that I could go ride . When I replaced the fuel lines I completely emptied the tank and refilled. As far as anything else Ill try the line to the carb to see if it is pulling at least and I have not tried bypassing the bowl as of yet. Next I am going to try the filters in the sender did not know they could affect things.
Ohell,
Can you tell me how or what I use to pressure check the system a simple pressure gauge or can I use a pop off tester just to see how it holds. When I put air in the tank it stays there until I release it by unscrewing the gas cap. I am not sure how to check the pulse line. I have put on a new piece of fuel line there and made the connection. Is there anything else to check on that particular part. I am currently looking for another carb to switch out with mine but no luck yet. About the fuel bowl it is good no pinched oring.
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Re: Fuel line routing
A pop off tester will work fine to check the fuel system pressure. It does not to have be pressurized very much. 5 - 10 psi for 5 min should be more than enough. You can pull the pulse line off at the carb, cover the end with your finger and crank the engine a few rounds. You should feel air pressure pulse in & out. Did you pressure test the carb when you rebuilt it? I ask because it really sounds like there may be a problem with the pump diaphram.
DaveAny technology, sufficiently advanced, will appear as magic.
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Re: Fuel line routing
I did not pressure test the carb as I took out the orings and diaphrams and such and replaced everything including the needle valve, arm, spring, and cross bar. I replaced everything in the carb except the jets. Is there a certain thing you need to do to the pump diaphram to make it stay on the pump piece of the carb I will pressure test it and see what happens after the rains leaves. The engine will start if I put fuel in the carb but die as soon as it has used the fuel. I will check the pulse line and see what happens.
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Re: Fuel line routing
do what DaveG says -
always pressure test fuel system after rebuild. pinch closed the fuel tank vent, pressure test thru fuel tank air inlet(make sure check valve lets air in). you can isolate tank or test entire system using fuel cutoff switch. also check from carb inlet if you want, make sure to pinch the fuel tank vent closed and verify operation of tank vent when releasing pressure from system.
if you dan't have a popoff tester, you can make one with low pressure gauge and blood pressure tester-pump bulb and hoses - let me know if you need direction. would cost about 25 bucks so i would really recommend buying mikuni unless you have parts to build one sitting around
good idea to verify popoff - especially if you change springs. better to find out in garage then on water.
dont give up, probably something simple with carb - trash, pinched gasket/diaphram - you did adjust jet screws??? via the external adjustments-low speed should not be closed. if not and you are unsure what settings are- someone will find out.
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