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1995 seadoo sportster

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  • #16
    Re: 1995 seadoo sportster

    Here's a view of the finished switch.
    Attached Files

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    • #17
      Re: 1995 seadoo sportster

      The picture is a lot of help. Thanks again:beer

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      • #18
        Re: 1995 seadoo sportster

        Originally posted by Steve762us
        Ok...lessee what kind of goat-rope this will be...

        Yikes...it worked!

        The wood is pressure treated deck planking; it's epoxied and SS-screwed to stringers. The forward section has a small piece of wood added underneath to let it bear on the interrupted surface there (I didn't want to let it have a levering effect, under the weight of the front battery). Battery boxes are mounted to decking with SS screws and fender washers; the footman strap clamps are mounted with SS screws also. The clearances for the boxes are tricky; they need to be as far forward as possible to let the aft battery fit into the box. I cut the handles from both boxes at the center, to let them fit better.

        The switch installation was not complete in those pics...it wasn't caulked in position yet, and looks kinda funky. I'd have positioned it a couple of inches further forward if I did it again...I ran into clearance problems with the breathing tube behind it, in this location. I used some pressure treated 1/4 wood behind the fiberglass to recess the switch; the tray will lift in and out without striking the switch face.

        I used 4 gauge cables to connect the batts to the switch, and to tie the neg posts together. All in all, I'm very pleased with how it all worked out...it's even helped balance starboard-heavy trait of the boat (`96 Challenger).
        I now have all I need to do the job....What size batteries do you use. i was goin to put in two blue top optima d34m in. Too much?

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        • #19
          Re: 1995 seadoo sportster

          Originally posted by pauly34
          I now have all I need to do the job....What size batteries do you use. i was goin to put in two blue top optima d34m in. Too much?
          I'm not sure of the size--I got a second one of the same group (24?) as the OEM stock battery. The manual says:








          Exide RV24-130, 12 V, 25 A•h (130 minutes reserve) or RV24-160 (160 minutes) or equivalent.




          Battery post : On top. Round taper type.
          Battery maximun allowed size : 285 mm (11-1/4”) long x 190 mm (7-1/2”) wide x 238 mm (9-3/8”) high.

          Both of my batteries had auto-style post terminals, and marine-style wing nut/screw on terminals. That came in handy for tying both battery negative terminals together. I used short (eight or ten inch) 4 gauge cable from Advance Auto, which had a auto clamp on one end, and a side terminal tab on the other end to bond the battery negatives. That left one terminal free to connect to the boat negative cable end.

          I'm not familiar with the Optima varieties, so I can't offer any suggestions there.

          Sorry about the weird font/pitch...I've tried five times to sort it out, it doesn't wanna change!


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          • #20
            Re: 1995 seadoo sportster

            Its all done.
            I do have a few questions though.
            I hired someone who said they knew what they were doing....
            He suface mounted the switch in the rear storage area good spot I just like the look of the panel install better. Did you have a template for the switch?
            What size hole did you drill. Spec say 3 5/8''.
            Also without having the ignition on , i can switch to battery 1 or 2 or both and be able to turn on everything including all navigation and aftermarket led lights, stereo, blower etc. Am I supossed to be able to do that?
            The last thing..I ended up buying a isolater switch (blue sea 9002e) with AFD capability (alternator field disconnect). Should or could that feature be used on our boat.

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            • #21
              Re: 1995 seadoo sportster

              Originally posted by pauly34

              1. He suface mounted the switch in the rear storage area good spot I just like the look of the panel install better.
              2. Did you have a template for the switch?
              3. What size hole did you drill. Spec say 3 5/8''.
              4. Also without having the ignition on , i can switch to battery 1 or 2 or both and be able to turn on everything including all navigation and aftermarket led lights, stereo, blower etc. Am I supossed to be able to do that?
              5. The last thing..I ended up buying a isolater switch (blue sea 9002e) with AFD capability (alternator field disconnect). Should or could that feature be used on our boat.
              1. I like the back-side mount too...looks clean, keeps everything out of way and protected better. Can you move the tray in and out with the surface installation??

              2. I think there was dimensions on the package. The hole saw set from Harbor Freight had one that cut a hole that left about 2mm all the way around the switch. I caulked that in and it looks fine. I also used a spacer between the switch and the panel (otherwise the switch housing would have projected far enough to interfere with lifting the tray)--cut up some 1/2 x 2" pressure treated wood.

              3. IIRC it was 3.5 or 90mm, in that region.

              4. Yes to all, except stereo and aftermarket lights--those would be discretionary. You want to be able to run bilge blower, bilge pump, and nav/anchor lights regardless of whether DESS key is there or not...that's a safety feature. You should, however, be able to kill ALL of that stuff when you turn the batt switch to OFF (some folks want the bilge pump direct wired, but that's personal preference).

              5. That sounds like the same switch I have. The AFD feature (IF you wire it in) will allow you to switch to OFF with engine(s) running, without damaging alternator parts. I haven't wired the AFD feature on mine up, and I'm not even sure if it could/would help on my boat anyway (alternator vs magneto...I've forgotten the difference). The safest thing to do is turn engine(s) OFF with your starting lanyard/DESS key, before you turn the battery switch to off.

              I'd like to see how your installation came out...can you post some pics?

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              • #22
                Re: 1995 seadoo sportster

                Yes no problem with the tray pulling it in or out even with it surface mounted. I really want it mounted like yours. Looks a lot cleaner.

                What they are saying about the afd Alternator Field Disconnect (AFD) protects the diodes in the alternator in the event of the switch being switched to the OFF position while the engine is running. Not used with internally regulated alternator??? Do we have one of those???



                I’m guessing the way I am to use the isolator switch is to start the boat with batt one. Turn on all accessories when parked. When its time to start up switch to both and leave in that position until parked again then switch to 1??



                The lights and stereo that were installed turned out great. Three hella recessed mounted under the seats facing forward and blue led's in each one of the cup holders. The stereo was installed on the port side the amp in the console area under the tray area. We also put a vent under the steering wheel area to keep it cool where the amp is mounted. A total of 5 speakers which includes a 10"sub. I am now rocking.


                My digital took a crap on me recently so no pics right now. As soon as I replace I will post them.


                Thanks again for all your help.

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                • #23
                  Re: 1995 seadoo sportster

                  Originally posted by pauly34


                  What they are saying about the afd Alternator Field Disconnect (AFD) protects the diodes in the alternator in the event of the switch being switched to the OFF position while the engine is running. Not used with internally regulated alternator??? Do we have one of those???



                  I’m guessing the way I am to use the isolator switch is to start the boat with batt one. Turn on all accessories when parked. When its time to start up switch to both and leave in that position until parked again then switch to 1??
                  Reference the AFD, I didn't hook it up and I don't know if it would be of use for us...I just won't shut the batteries down, with the engines running--easy `nuff.

                  I've seen some involved schemes for "which battery for starting, the other for such & such"...I'm not organized enough to keep track of that, so I just start off one and run it for a while...then start off the other and run it for awhile...run `em both on charge for awhile. I just try and get both batteries used during each outing, and both charged. Seems to have worked ok on my system for the past seven months. I also keep each battery on it's own 5 watt solar panel, 24/7, when the boat is in my yard.

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