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1994 Seadoo XP - electrical and fuel questions

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  • 1994 Seadoo XP - electrical and fuel questions

    This is my first post, so be gentle. I have been boating for 20+ years and finally bought a jetski to play on the water with. I have alot of friends that ride, but now I have a reason to join them.

    At any rate,

    I picked up this ski pretty cheap but obviously it needs a little work.
    The VST is not working, and I wanted to check the fuses, but I can not get the fuse box out to open it and check the two fuses.

    If I try to bring the box to the stern of the PWC it appears that the exhaust clamp will not let it come through.

    The exhaust was removed to weld the freeze out plugs ( I guess that is what they are called). How is the fuse box supposed to be moved?

    Once the fuses are inspected, I can begin to troubleshoot the vst problem. The VST cable looks like the sheathing is broken and rusted, so I know that has to go. I want to disconnect the vst motor and test it without the cable attached as I think that cable might be causing the motor to lock.

    Next up is the fuel lines. I own 4 boats so Iam familiar with the troubles with E10. The tank was replaced last year, but I am not sure if the fuel lines were.

    They look fairly new (gray in color). The fuel filter was clogged with some reddish colored dirt (not rust) and had some phase seperation from the e10 and water in the bowl.

    I drained the tank and there was very little water or dirt in the tank.

    Is the reddish dirt an indication of the lines breaking down?

  • #2
    Re: 1994 Seadoo XP - electrical and fuel questions

    Greenish black gook is what the fuel lines look like when the fail. I have never had good luck with the gray lines. Switch to marine grade black lines. the electrical box comes out from the front hatch, disconnect the harness leads and work it forward. Most likely the trim is shot and will need replacing, common issue with older sea-doos, the internal relays fail. Tom SBT tech.
    SBT Tech Support is here to help with your problems.
    We try to answer each question quickly and accurately.
    Please do not use Private Messaging for Tech Support, use the forums.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: 1994 Seadoo XP - electrical and fuel questions

      Originally posted by Technical Support
      Greenish black gook is what the fuel lines look like when the fail. I have never had good luck with the gray lines. Switch to marine grade black lines. the electrical box comes out from the front hatch, disconnect the harness leads and work it forward. Most likely the trim is shot and will need replacing, common issue with older sea-doos, the internal relays fail. Tom SBT tech.
      Tom,
      Thanks for the response.
      If I try to take this out from the front hatch, I will have to remove the spark plug wires and the positive battery cable as they are in the back of the electrical box.

      So it is more common for the trim motor to go or the relays in the fuse box?

      I am familiar with the standard tilt and trim relays on outboards. I am assuming that this is a similar design?

      I have been reading alot about the VST motors and the ones in the back seem to fail often. This seems like a better design as the trim motor is mounted up high in the front compartment.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: 1994 Seadoo XP - electrical and fuel questions

        The relays are made into the trim motor housing, there not in the electrical box. There are fuses in the electrical box along with the cdi.
        SBT Tech Support is here to help with your problems.
        We try to answer each question quickly and accurately.
        Please do not use Private Messaging for Tech Support, use the forums.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: 1994 Seadoo XP - electrical and fuel questions

          Originally posted by Technical Support
          The relays are made into the trim motor housing, there not in the electrical box. There are fuses in the electrical box along with the cdi.
          Tom,
          On this model, The VTS module (2 relays and 5 amp fuse) are in the electrical box.

          I am gonna check the amp draw on the motor tonight, but I think the VTS module is bad. It seems to trip when it is under a load.

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