Tools for cylinder exchange '98 GTX-L

[mstovenour]

I'm about to purchase a cylinder exchange and have not found any specific instructions for cylinder replacement. I've read the short block replacement instructions. I also have the Sea-Doo shop manual. The manual describes using a circlip installation tool and a piston pin puller tool. Do you all think I'll need either of those tools? I think the new pistons come with caged bearings so bearing installation should be easy. What about removal?

Second question; what do you all recommend for selecting the right base gasket thickness? I'm guessing that I need to specify it when ordering the exchange kit, but how will I be able to determine the right thickness prior to installing the new cylinders? I read about the squish test; is it meaningful to perform that on the existing cylinders and pistons?

Michael

[Technical Support]

Re: Tools for cylinder exchange '98 GTX-L

We only use one size base gasket, on our top end kits, You dont need any special tools to swap pistons or to install rings. I would recommend using the thickest gasket offered as a base gasket for a carb motor, its a little more involved on a fuel injected engine.

[mstovenour]

Re: Tools for cylinder exchange '98 GTX-L

Ok, that makes it simple. Thanks for the quick reply.

[dsolie]

Re: Tools for cylinder exchange '98 GTX-L

For removal of the wrist pin and bearings; If the motor is OUT of the ski, lay the motor on it's side, pop-off the circlips on the wrist pins (only need to take out one per piston), and smack the pin with a socket or socket extension with a hammer (smack the side that still has the circlip in it..) It takes some force on the OEM pins.. The PIN will give way and start to slide out, keep smacking.

You will hear all the needle bearings fall into the piston cup (since the motor is on it's side, the pins will NOT fall into the crank area. Once that happens, you should be able to just pull the piston off. Repeat on the other piston.

As a note, you SHOULD have 2 people to do this. One needs to hold the piston and rod as you are hammering the pin. This will put a lot less lateral force on the rod, just to be safe.