break in of new pistons/rings

[ScreaminXP]

I discovered some light scoring on one piston (mag side, oddly enough) when replacing my base gasket, and decided just to go with a whole new top end including wrist pins and bearings. Is it okay to run some extra XPS oil (1 qt +/-) in the first tank instead of the break in oil, then just go with the normal break in schedule? (should I go longer on the break in than normal, since its synthetic?)
Anyways, fired it up today for the first time, and I did add some XPS to the full tank, but it seemed a lot smokier than usual. (even after the initial runoff of the oil which I coated everything with for re-assembly)
I'm going to bring gas tomorrow so I can dilute it down and get regular gas in there after 3/4 of a tank or so. That should be okay(?)
Cylinders were lightly honed with 400 stones, but the original cross-hatch was still showing in some areas before I did that. What is the best way to break in the new parts? Crank has 28 hrs. Pistons/rings have 0. I got them from SBT earlier this week. Rings gapped, everything checked, cleaned, torqued, sealed, loctited, all new gaskets,copper spray and high tack, etc.
Crossing my fingers this time to be screamin again. Bumped the timing by one degree while I had the front cover off, too. You guys will probably yell at me for this one, but since the timing pickup is a fixed unit bolted to the Mag cover, if you drill out the holes which mount it to the cover, you can elongate them and allow for 1-2 degrees of base timing adjustment (for free) we'll see how that works out after break-in to test the "my boat won't rev past 6700 rpm, it must be the timing" theory. (since everything else has been triple checked and tweaked, and it should theoretically rev to 6900+) - we'll see.
Thanks

[ May 03, 2002, 10:28 PM: Message edited by: ScreaminXP ]

[Kawi-Guy]

umm, aren't you supposed to use "regular" oil for the break in?
and not "synthetic"??

[ScreaminXP]

well, the seadoo only takes synthetic, and the break in oil is normally used in conjunction with the regular oil injection of synthetic XPS oil this boat needs to stay healthy. I do remember reading a post about using extra pre mix of synthetic added to the tank along with the injection, but it just takes longer, so I wanted to be sure.

[John Kubiak]

Sea-Doo Service Bulletin

No. 97-5
Date: December 23, 1996
SUBJECT: Recommended Oil

1997 SPX 5834/5661 ALL
1997 GSX 5624 ALL
1997 XP 5662 ALL
1997 GTX 5642 ALL

1997 Sea-Doo Operator‘s Guide (P/N 219 000
059) mentions to use Bombardier synthetic injection oil for the 787 engines. This has been revised. From now on, both Bombardier mineral or synthetic injection oils can be used on all engines including 787 and 947.
Ensure to notify customers of these changes.

Sea-Doo Service Bulletin
No. 98-14
Date: June 11, 1998
SUBJECT: Synthetic Injection Oil

1998 GTX* RFI 5666/5843 All

On the above mentioned models, it is required to use only BOMBARDIER-ROTAX FORMULA XP-S
synthetic oil (P/N 413 710 500) or equivalent synthetic injection oil. This fully Synthetic oil will provide outstanding cleanliness, less friction and wear for greater engine performance and durability. When proceeding to the predelivery inspection, please ensure to put a sticker on the cover of the operator’s guide in order to advise customer. This sticker (P/N 219 900 941) will be automatically shipped to dealers and is available through the
regular parts system. Please update the 1998 Shop Manual Supplement (P/N 219 100 070).

From the 2000 DI model Owner's guide

MODELS
RX DI
GTX DI

DI Models Use only two-stroke engine injection
oil sold by authorized Sea-Doo dealers.
CAUTION: Bombardier formulation XP-S DI is specially formulated and tested for use in our 947 DI engines. Use of any other brand of two-stroke oil may void the limited warranty. Use only Bombardier Formula XP-S DI.

The BOMBARDIER FORMULA XP-S DI synthetic injection oil provides superior lubrication, reduced engine component wear and oil deposit, thus maintaining maximum-level performance and antifriction properties. This
synthetic injection oil meets the latest ASTM and JASO standards by ensuring high biodegradability and low exhaust smoke.
CAUTION: Never use four-stroke petroleum or synthetic motor oil and never mix these with outboard motor oil. Do not use NMMA TC-W,
TC-W2 or TC-W3 outboard motor oils or other ashless type two-stroke oil. Avoid mixing different brands of API TC oil as resulting chemical reactions may cause severe engine
damage.

Translation of the above:

All models EXCEPT RFI and DI can use either XP-S Synthetic or Mineral oil.

The RFI MUST use Synthetic

The DI must use the special DI synthetic

New for 2002 is XP-S II which replaces both XP-S and XP-S DI oil

[ May 04, 2002, 03:05 AM: Message edited by: John Kubiak ]

[ScreaminXP]

Thanks John. Instead of saying that my "ski takes only synthetic" I meant to say that was all I ever use in it. Sp its okay for the break-in with some extra added to the gas on fresh rings/pistons?

[John Kubiak]

You should add 2.5 ounces per gallon of gas, or a ratio of 50:1 (it's the same). for proper break in of the pistons and rings.

[cameron da river rat]

hey screamin xp,

i use amsoil synthetic injector oil pre-mixed @40:1 in my 720 and this is the third year and still have the compression it did when it was new. (also in the 94spx that i sold my friend) my snap on compression gauge reads 145psi front and back! they tell me not to use it since it is ZERO ash content but so far sooooooooooo goooooood! i'm not sayin sea doo oil is no good cuz i use to pre mix the mineral oil @40:1 (well 32:1 untill bryan said 40:1 is sufficient) and had no probs either. well not untill i milled the head and did not run 93oct and it sounded like a six pack of bottles rattlin in the cylinders and had no idea what it was so i gunned it and a day and a half later........................ka klack! mag side piston siezure in the middle of lake amistad texas!

but i use to use 2.5oz of extra oil per gallon for the first two tank fills on both skis when the engines were new and it is synthetic oil>

as far as the light scoring i would have just sanded the skirt down with a real fine sand paper and oil and stuck it back in there, if it was light!!!!!! and the rings did not suffer any damage!!!!!!!!! :D [img]tongue.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/uts.gif[/img]

[ May 04, 2002, 11:50 PM: Message edited by: cameron da river rat ]

[ScreaminXP]

Well, it was borderline sanding it down rather than replacing it, but there was water in one cylinder (which I dried out ASAP) but the wrist pin bearings on that one I guess didn't get dried off enough, and had a little brown-ness to the surface so I just went with the new top end as long as I had it apart anyways, it was just a few extra steps.
I got through the first tank yesterday. Man, it seems to take forever to burn through gas at 1/2 throttle or less.. I was just cruizin all day, and it was an awesome day to be out there. Water is 83 and it was smoother than usual. DOO-in it again today.
This thing really seems like it wants to go. Throttle response is much snappier with the timing bumped up a little. I used the 4 hole gasket. Compression is 165. Able to open it up for short bursts today for the first time. Want to be sure its fully broken in before I drop the hammer too much.