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How do I remove PTO?

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  • How do I remove PTO?

    Hello,
    I have a serious problem with this yellow 580 motor, I want to take the crank out, but I can't because the PTO just doesn't want to come out, I don't know what to do and how to hold it down and make sure it is locked up very good.
    I used about 2 meter pole and I wasn't successful. Someone said I should assemble the engine back put something in the rear cylinder to lock it up and try again, however I can't hold the engine to the ground, I was already thinking of finding a way to mount it to the floor.
    Any ideas?

  • #2
    You need to put the crank in a lage vise, heat the coupler with a torch, and use a long cheater-bar.

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    • #3
      I am also having trouble removing my PTO flywheel on my 1996 GSX. What do you guys mean to put a cheater bar on the flywheel? How do you attach it? Do I need that that Sea Doo puller plate. Clymer's Manual says to lock the engine, which I have done, and turn the flywheel counterclockwise to unscrew. It is way to hard to turn by hand and I was wondering what you guys did?

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      • #4
        You have to use a pipe-wrench or chain wrench...and use the cheater bar with THAT. Look at the Install/Removal guides in the tech section...

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        • #5
          Kevin,
          Do you have the impellar removal tool? If so, stick it in the end of the PTO (it's the same splines as the impellar. Then use a 23mm (I think) socket and a long breaker bar or a smaller ratchet with a long piece of pipe ("cheater") placed over the handle . If you don't have the impellar removal tool, you'll need the pipe-wrench or chain wrench as Bryan suggests.

          I successfully used a 2' breaker bar and impellar tool for removing the PTO from a '97 GSX engine (same as a '96 GSX).

          -Scope

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          • #6
            Scope,
            Do I have to have the impeller removal tool. If so, how much does it cost. If not, do you have any suggestions on how to get the flywheel off without it?

            Thanks for your help.

            Kevin

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            • #7
              Kevin,
              You do not have to have the impellar tool. If you don't (or don't want to buy it) you'll have to use a pipewrench. Among other places, you can buy the impellar tool from Impros (www.impros.com) or Parker Yamaha.

              They're $10 at Parker.

              See here

              -Scope

              [ December 14, 2001: Message edited by: Scope ]</p>

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              • #8
                What's the best way to lock up the engine?
                I took mine apart, so the front housing is no longer there, everything is out, including the pistons (stupid me one of them was locked up badly). Any clue guys?
                If I lock up the rear piston then should I assemble the stupid needle bearing again on the **** pistons?

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                • #9
                  Vadimr,
                  Here is how I do it when the motor has been partially disassembled.

                  Notice the three 8mm threaded holes on the magneto flywheel. I made a steel 1/4 inch thick plate that bolts onto the front of the flywheel.Use short bolts if the magneto stator is still on the front of the motor so the bolts don't damage the stator (the holes go all the way through the magneto flywheel). The steel plate has a 1 1/2 inch hole in the center for clearance of the flywheel retainer nut and crankshaft nose, and three 8mm holes drilled through the plate to match the three on the flywheel. Bolt the plate to the flywheel and stand the motor upright in a vise, pto up. Clamp the plate into the jaws of the vise. Using a pto/prop splined tool and an acetelene/oxyigen torch, I heat the pto until the paint turns brown and the pto gets real hot. Take you time and heat it throughlly. Using a breaker bar and the splined prop tool, I remove the pto, turning it counterclockwise.

                  Yellow 580's and 1995 781 motors are the hardest to remove the pto from, as the treads on the crankshaft are finer on the 781 on that year model (1995 only). The yellow motors were just a tough one to do. The factory used a real tough loc-tite on the threads, and lots of it. It usually requires lots of heat if it has never been removed before. When heat and pressure from the breaker bar do not budge it, smack it on the outside diameter with a 2 lb hammer as you apply the pressure. The shock will break it loose.

                  Using this method, I have never found a pto that I could not remove.
                  Bill O'Neal WCM
                  <a href="http://www.watercraftmagic.com" target="_blank">www.watercraftmagic.com</a>

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