96 GSX locked up after 4 month storage

[N G]

I winterized my GSX in september, I used the bombardier lube to fog the engine, and a fuel stabilizer. I tried starting it this past weekend with a new charged battery, and it wouldn't turn over. I tried turning the PTO and it was way too hard. Before storage, it was running fine. I also noticed some 2-cycle oil on the bottom of the hull (about a cup). Please help. Thank you.

[Bryan Glynn]

The first thing you need to do is pull the spark plugs out and see if it will turn over. It may be hydro locked on oil, gas, water or a combination of the three.

When you winterized, what was your exact procedure, specifically about the hose and how you shut off the water?

The oil in the may or may not be related...

[N G]

I have already pull-out the plugs and tried turning it without compression, but same results. When I winterized it, I started the engine, connected the hose to flush kit, then I sprayed the fog oil into the carbs throught the flame arrestor. Ran it for a while, pulled of the water hose, then shut it down.

[Bryan Glynn]

OK, two things come to mind...did you blow out the water before shutting it down?

It *may* not be the engine that's locked up, it could be the pump. I would pull the pump off and disengage the driveshaft to make sure it's the engine that's locked. If it is, you will need to tear it down for diagnosys before going further.

[N G]

OK Bryan, I pulled of the pump, it was fine, so I started tearing down, and got the engine out completely, following your instruction manual(very helpful). I removed the head to inspect the pistons, and they look fine (dark brown color) no signs of rust. I tried pulling the cylinder off but it was way too hard. Besides the four bolts in the cylinder housing, is there anything else holding it down? If the pistons are stuck, how do I go about breaking them loose. I've heard everything from pouring brake fluid in them to heating them with propane torch. Thank you for your help.

[Bryan Glynn]

Hehe...you can't just pull them off - you need a big rubber mallet to whack them with - there are pins, and the gasket has it sealed very well. After a few whacks they will loosen and you can wiggle the cylinders off the pistons.

[Bill O'Neal]

96 GSX 782 motor ? No clyinder alignment pins in those motors. Just whack the clyinders with a deadblow hammer. If they are really stuck with the pistons welded to the liners from rust, try a block of wood on top of the piston while holding the weight of the motor up by holding the clyinder, and have someone whack the wood with a heavy hammer to break the piston loose from the bore. You may want to pour some transmission fluid into the bores and let it sit overnight.

If your motor is this badly stuck from rust, you may be better off just putting it into a box and shipping it to SBT for an exchanged remanufactured motor. No real need for you to take it apart, beyond the bolt-ons.

[Scope]

Have you removed the starter yet? I had your exact same symptoms. Turned out to be the bendix was completely jammed against worn teeth. As soon as the starter was pulled, everything turned freely. Of course, I had to buy a new flywheel and install it. Installation required pulling the engine. You've already got the engine out so you're most of the way there.
Here's a thread with pictures posted of the starter ring that caused the above problem in my '96XP:

Jammed Starter Thread

-Scope

[ January 30, 2002, 10:32 AM: Message edited by: Scope ]

[N G]

ok, I finally got the cylinders off. The pistons had a build-up of "something" probably rust, which caused them to stick. What is my next step? What do I have to do before reinstalling the engine? Bryan, I'm going to need a gasket kit.

[Bryan Glynn]

You need to get it fully inspected - if you had that much rust on your pistons/cylinders i can almost guarantee your crank is toast too. I would advise you to tear it completely down and remove the crank - then take it to a good shop for inspection if you can't do it yourself. Everythign must be perfect, or you will just be spending time and money to reassemble a time-bomb. If your crank is toast too, you are looking at either a reman shortblock, or getting your crank rebuilt, and getting a top end kit, getting your cylinders cleaned up/honed/bored and doing everythign yourself (which is often more expensive and carries no warranty).

[N G]

Bryan, I took the engine to a local shop which is going to inspect it a do the necessary. I want to order the gasket kit from you, I noticed there are two (internal, installation), with one do I need. I basically need all the gaskets from the cylinder base to the top of the head and exhaust.

[Bryan Glynn]

You need both. The internal kit includes all gaskets to reassemble the short-block, and the Install kit lets you install it in the ski and bolt everything back up to it.

[Bill O'Neal]

NG,
Did you come to the realization that you need a remanufactured motor from SBT yet? If not, you will.
When a motor is locked solid from rust in the bores, the crankshaft bearings will be damaged too. Even if the crank spins, it will have rust pits on the bearing surfaces. After a few short minutes of running, the bearings will overheat and start losing their hard coating from the bearing races and rollers. Once this starts happening, it is only a matter of time before the bearings start coming apart. First the bearing cages will break sending pieces of metal throughout the motor, peppering the top of the piston and the squish band of the head chambers. This is followed by the rollers getting loose and being forced through the cases and stopping the rotary vave. When the rotary valve suddenly stops, it shears the teeth off of the brass gear and deflects the rotary valve shaft rendering it useless. Pieces of beraings will scar up the rotary valve surface of the cases, and bend the rotary valve. If it continues to run, it will throw a rod through the bottom of the case.

If you buy a remanufactured motor BEFORE you scatter the rods, it will cost much less than paying to get everything welded up and back into repairable condition.