Something isn't right

[J Nord]

I rebuilt my carbs completely and went to reinstall. At the end.. I have an extra two springs.. but the ones on the carbs are on there, so I'm assuming that these springs are for the choke cable where it assembles onto the two mounting spots.

Aside from that, the ski wouldn't start right away. After getting it started, it actually raced and is reving in idle as if it is at full throttle. The screws were adjusted per specs of the seadoo manual.

Another thing I noticed and am not sure how to fix, the throttle feels funny, as if it's not tight enough, and then also as if it's not releasing properly.

[Bryan Glynn]

OK, first, I'm assuming you used ours or OEM carb rebuild kits. They will come with extra springs, ours come with several. These are so you can tune your pop-off pressure to the correct range using a pop-off preddure guage, as shown in our rebuild guide and the OEM service manuals.

How did you set your pop-off when you rebuilt the carbs? How did you clean off all the carb gasket surfaces? Did you replace all the check valves? Did you alter the setting of the idle speed screw?

[J Nord]

Pop off pressure set to that of the Seadoo manual. Idle speed screw set to that of the Sedoo manual - 1 turn out. Cleaned everything very well with Carb/Choke cleaner, repainted all surfaces, used parts in the rebuild kits. Everything seemed fine.

Connecting everything back though -- can't seem to get that satisfactory. Like I said, throttle feels strange, and not releasing back to where it should. ... something wrong there.

I've decided just to take it to the mechanic in the morning to have it set properly and double-checked over.

[J Nord]

When I said spring... I meant large one.. with a rather strange end... elongated and bent. I think these go on the bolts that go through the choke cable assembly. Not sure though

[Bryan Glynn]

OK, you didn't just rebuild your carbs, you disassembled part of the linkage and plate assemblies.

We'll need to know what ski you are working on to tell you where the springs go.

1 turn out is not the specified set point for the idle speed screw. It's the starting point to set to idle speed, which should be around 1500 RPM in the water, higher out, probably at least 2500. You set it by in water RPMs, not turns of the screw. I suspect you may just have your idle screw too far in, but let's make sure everything is back together on your carbs first...

[J Nord]

The carb rebuild instructions showed everything disassembled so they were two separate units.... and how was I supposed to get teh carbs out of the jetski without taking everything off?

Linkage? The link with the double head on it was still intact..

[Bryan Glynn]

WHat ski and who's instructions?

[seasoned]

Combination of instructions from Seadoo manual and your instructions for removing the engine/carb rebuilds.

1998 SPX.

[John Kubiak]

Sea-Doo manual or Clymer's official sea-doo manual ? The Bombardier Sea-Doo manual has an exploded view of the carbs at the beginning of the chapter, but makes no mention of disassembly.

[ March 04, 2002, 04:08 AM: Message edited by: Sea-Doo Tech 13736 ]

[Bill O'Neal]

Sounds like he is talking about the throttle shaft return springs.

He is going to need a picture, or another carb that is not disassembled to see how it goes back on each shaft.

Remove the 12 mm nut on the end of the butterfly (throttle plate) shaft. Remove the throttle wheel (the thing the cable attaches to)and the stop piece behind it. Place the spring on the shaft with the straight end butted against the stop on the carb body. Wind the end with the curly-cue around the shaft one turn and replace the metal stop piece that you removed with the throttle wheel, hooking the spring over it. Then replace the throttle wheel.
When you finish, the throttle plates should snap closed when you release the throttle.

[seasoned]

Not that I'm trying to argue with you.. . however.. email me at jnord24@telocity.com, and I'll email you a screen shot of what I'm talking about in the manual....

I purchased the cd-rom which contains the shop manual, parts catalog, racing handbook, kits, specification booklet, tool booklet and operation guide all on one cd.

The instructions from SBT showed all the screws and parts removed and sitting on the table -- and said you should have all teh parts shown below now taken out.

I guess what I need clarified is with the idle speed screw, screwed in.... the plates inside the carbs should be able to close all the way?.... then I can reset that myself. Because I know when I put it back together those plates were not closing all the way.

Another thing... I thought of... because this whole problem was brought about by the jetski cutting out while flying along... as well as really hard to start:)

Fuel filter.... checked that and I had all kinds of chunkies ...rather large chunkies in the outer case, as well as the fuel filter itself totally sludgy, slimy and this orangish color.

My filters inside the carb were pretty bad off also.

The whole problem has been that I took this apart over a month ago and just hadn't time to get back to it.

At any rate.. thanks for all your help. After writing this post.. I feel like such a moron. I figure because I'm a computer geek and am always following manuals, I'll be able to follow the manual. The problem is when you need common sense on something that isnt' in the manual.

And.. btw... ahhh... never mind.

[Bill O'Neal]

Could it be somthing as simple as you need to back off the idle adjuster screw ? If it is not backed off, and you look at the throttle plates from the bottom of the carbs, they will not be closed all of the way.

Now you have me confused too....

[Bryan Glynn]

Originally posted by newbie:
I guess what I need clarified is with the idle speed screw, screwed in.... the plates inside the carbs should be able to close all the way?

No, with the idel speed screw in all the way, your throttle plates will be open. The set screw pushes against the throttle cable cam, preventing it from coming fully closed.