1000 Daytona

[EricH]

Bryan and crew,

I pulled my buddies motor tonight due to a starter problem and found a tad more than expected. :(

the bendix is toast. got any?

a quick look in the ext port found a cracked piston skirt. removal of all 3 jugs revealed 3 cracked skirts on the ext side with #3 (aft) being rather large. got any?

now the zinger. how do I handle the slight scoring on the cyl walls? slight...no material transfer but still catches the fingernail. damage is about 1/4 wide inch below and parallel to the transfer ports extending to the bottom of the cyl. upper cyl still shows crosshatch. it appears these are alum cyls with no sleeves like a dirt bike. Does this require the sleeve job SBT sells or can they just be bored oversize? I assume they have some type of coating. Nikacil maybe?? I've never dealt with an unsleeved watercraft motor so I'm clueless.

any other "tigershark" (aka suzuki) things to look for other then just the dimensional stuff? I have not split the cases yet but will do so tomorrow to seek further 'stuff'. (as the owner cringes..) the funky counter balancer set up has me curious so its a 'must inspect' item.

BTW Bryan, this is a cool site. I've always been a RSJS lurker but wading through all the BS always pretty much stunk. Thanks for setting this site and policing it.

For the few T/S owners reading this, my buddy has about a gazillion hours on this ski with no major maint ever done. It just runs and runs and runs.....until now of course. [img]smile.gif[/img] Its either a good ski or he is very lucky. (not..I've seen him gamble) I would be interested in hearing from you guys what performance stuff is out there.

Thanks,

Eric

[ February 28, 2002, 05:27 AM: Message edited by: EricH ]

[Bryan Glynn]

Welcome!

Yes we have tons of bendix assemblies - $50, good as new.

For your engine, you can either bore it and have it sleeved, or bore it and have it re plated. It is not aluminum, but Nicasil plated. It's not cheap, no matter which way you choose, but going to a standard iron sleeve will allow for cheap future repairs.

You REALLY need to fully break it down and inspect the whole thing before choosing a route - it may be in your best finacial interest to get a complete block from us if you have bottom end damage - you will quicly find that doing it yourself may cost you more than a complete engine, for a Tigershark.

[EricH]

Bryan,

After review of your comments, and considering my lack of Shark knowledge, my buddy elected to buy one of your motors. (I was elated..) He received the motor last week and it is one pretty piece of work. But I have a little prob.

How do I remove the crank coupler? Before you FAQ me you should know I've done various motors before and this joker is "on". I'm at the point where I don't want to damage the crank. I heated it with a propane torch to the 300's, put 400ftlb of dead weight on, AND hit it with an impact all at the same time without even a budge. How much should I expect to apply before things break? I've got a BIG impact but I've never used it on something like this and suspect it would just break my spline adaptor tool. How HOT can you heat the coupler before damage occurs? How much do you charge to take the thing off???? The whole thing is soaking in Kroil right now but I seriously doubt I'll get this one off as I don't want to damage the core. Suggestions?

[Bryan Glynn]

You won't damage the core tryign to get it off - you can heat it up to 700 deg. before you start to melt any aluminum. You just need more leverage - we use a 6' cheater bar with the crank in a big vice.

Worst-case we can remove and ship it back for $25.

[ March 25, 2002, 10:07 AM: Message edited by: Bryan Glynn ]