Did you check the internal carb filters?
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Diagnosis PLEASE!!!
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Everything in the carbs looked okay. The pop off pressure has been checked.
Exhaust appears to be fine. I've replaced a few gaskets that didn't look 100% good.
I'm suspecting a problem with the magneto side of the motor. Is there any tests I can run on this stuff?
Thanks for the quick replysJoe Kissell<br />-1995 Tigershark 900<br />-1986 Kawasaki 650 X2
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I've got a 1995 Tigershark 900.
Problem:
It idles and runs fine below 3/4 throttle. After 15 seconds of full throttle, it starts to cut in and out from low to mid RPMs. It'll continue to do this until you let off the throttle and allow it to return to idle. Once idling, you can repeat this procedure 100% of the time!
Work done:
replaced Head O-rings, rebuilt fuel pump, replaced spark plugs, new fuel filter.
Coils measure close to what the book calls for with my Radio Shack meter.
Noticed that it seems to have a very weak spark. Will actually run a hair better when you disconnect one or even two of the plug wires!Joe Kissell<br />-1995 Tigershark 900<br />-1986 Kawasaki 650 X2
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Stator for a Tigershark???
Not even sure where I would start to look. It's very hard to find parts around here. (I live in Kansas)
Anybody know where online I could check? Preferrably, a cheap used one that is known to be good!
Thanks again,Joe Kissell<br />-1995 Tigershark 900<br />-1986 Kawasaki 650 X2
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Tank vents have been switched around every which way, but made no difference.
The heat sensor checks out okay. I verified that it was not turning on even while the ski was cutting in and out.
Here is something weird I noticed last night while playing with the high speed adjustment screws: I got the same response NO MATTER HOW I adjusted screws. I tried both fully open and fully closed and I still got the same results in performance! What's this telling me?Joe Kissell<br />-1995 Tigershark 900<br />-1986 Kawasaki 650 X2
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Been there, done that!
I really appreciate all the quick replies, please keep them coming if you have any more ideas.
Also, I noticed that at an idle if you remove both the front and rear plug wires, it barely makes a difference. However, if you remove the center plug wire the ski dies. Would this mean I'm not getting the fire I need in the front and rear cylinders?Joe Kissell<br />-1995 Tigershark 900<br />-1986 Kawasaki 650 X2
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I used screw-driver in my hand and used my body to complete the circuit to ground. It has a "bite" to it, but not nearly as strong as I'd expect.
Yes, I know, not very professional or safe!
I'm wondering if there is a simple problem (shorted wire) in the wiring.
I'm also experiencing trouble with many of the electrical components on the ski.
The tachometer revs up backwards! There is no inbetween, it just jump from 0 to 5000 at full throttle. It's hard to had the wrong wire at the tach because they are all color coded. Also, my fuel gauge doesn't come to life, but has been tested to be good. My trim does not work, but motor and switch are good.
So, I originally thought these to be unrelated problems, but now I'm wondering if they are one and the same??? I've got a wire schematic of everything but the CDI. I guess I'll have to go through it wire by wire and test it ALL.
Any last thoughts?Joe Kissell<br />-1995 Tigershark 900<br />-1986 Kawasaki 650 X2
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