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Gp 1200 No Spark

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  • Gp 1200 No Spark

    I HAVE A 97 GP1200 AND GOT NO SPARK , SOMEONE TOLD TO REPLACE THE CDI,BUT IT DID NOT HELP THE PROBLEM. ANY SUGGESTIONS PLEASE HELP NEED TO GET BACK ON THE WATER. THANKS DAN

  • #2
    Re: Gp 1200 No Spark

    Dont Just Start Buying Parts Hoping That Will Be The Problem. Use A Process Of Elemination First. Start With The Easiest Least Expensive Fix. Here Is An Example. I Had The Exact Same Ski In The Shop Last Week. Customer Said No Spark. After Some Prelimanary Tests It Was Determined That There Was Metel Shaving Inside The Front Cover Contaminating The Magneto Assembly And Shorting Out The Stator. The Pickups Were Also Moist From Moisture Entering The Front Cover Through An Oil Pump Block Off Plate That Was Not Sealed Properly. After Some Time On These Motors They Will All Have Some Metel Shavings In The Mag Area. This Is From Normal Wear Of The Starter Gear Assembly Meshing With The Flywheel. A Good Cleaning And Drying Out Sloved His Problem And He Was Back On The Water For Under $100.00. Give This A Try. Good Luck.
    WATERCRAFT SERVICES. PROVIDING THE RESIDENTS OF HOUSTON AND SURROUNDING AREAS WITH QUALITY WORK ON THEIR PWC AT A FAIR PRICE.

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    • #3
      Re: Gp 1200 No Spark

      Also check/clean the ground wire on the front magneto cover. This corroded on me once and was getting very weak spark as a result. Like WCS said, sometimes its just a little thing so best to check these first.

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      • #4
        Re: Gp 1200 No Spark

        Also Yamaha are notorious for bad stop switches. Disconnet the white and black connector coming from the handle bar. Turn engine over and check for spark at the plug.

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        • #5
          Re: Gp 1200 No Spark

          I personally had to deal w/ this last summer and into this year on my '99 GP 1200, it was my stator that was the culprit. No spark on all three plugs? If it's not the start/stop switch as Torquenut said, I'd open up the flywheel cover and see if the stator's corroded inside. To verify I opened up the electrical box where the CDI resides and unplug the 3-wire connector and set your meter to AC, as you crank the engine put one lead on each of the 3 terminals (that go to the stator) and the other on ground, see if you get a noticeable pulse of power on each one. That's testing the charge coil, mine was bad, (even though the guy that rebuilt it rewound the coil to match the manual's resistance values, it wasn't up to specs)
          If it is the stator, DO NOT GET IT REBUILT! That was $120 of wasted money I spent, never again, spend the $210 for new and be done with it. Been there done that, if I can help, let me know.

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