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  • Raider 701 setup

    Hi all,
    I bought a very clean 95 Waveraider with a 701 twin carb model 62T engine. It also has the QSTS.
    I have heard that this is the most reliable engine in PWC's but are there any bugaboos I need to watch for? It has 135PSI compression on each cyl, starts easily and is quiet.
    I hear that this boat can get a little crazy in a 6" chop, so is there a setup for the grate, ride plate, sponsons that will make it better mannered? I have read that cutting off the stock ride plate even with the back of the hull will help. It will be used in GA/AL lakes and in the ocean this summer.
    Is removing the choke plates and adding a primer a worthwhile mod?
    How about an AAT?
    I have done some searches, but have not found much info.
    Thanks in advance for sharing any experience.
    Doug

  • #2
    Re: Raider 701 setup

    I don't know about the handling mods., but you definitely do not need a primer kit on that motor - so don't waste your money.
    "Helping you make smart choices about your money - so you can live a better life."

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    • #3
      Re: Raider 701 setup

      I have a 96 Raider 760 and was told that extending the ride plate and nozzle would help in the rough;and also some aftermarket sponsons for turning and such..


      Stay away from primers..

      Cracking the throttle about 1/8 of the way helps when starting.

      If you knew,then you'd know!

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      • #4
        Re: Raider 701 setup

        Thanks for the replies,

        I was thinking about the primer because that is what Group K does to the carbs--removes the choke butterflies and contours the inlets to match the air box. But I guess that having a ski that runs every time is better than wasting nice days fussing with a tempermental engine.
        Most of what I have read shows a shorter ride plate to help get the bow up. I am sure that the blow molded sponsons probably raise the stern up at speed too.
        Riva has a handling kit that includes sponsons, ride plate, intake grate, and nozzle for $355 Wich would keep me in my budget of $2000 total.
        It would be great if someone had some feedback pos or neg about it.
        Thanks again,
        Doug

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        • #5
          Re: Raider 701 setup

          Jet,

          at 135lb your cylinder pressure it pretty low. They should be closer to 150lbs each for a stock engine. It's possible it's just your gague....and as long as they both are within 10 points....

          Are you sure that your holding it WOT while both plugs are out and only the pressure guague is in one clyinder on a COLD engine that has not run for a few hours? If your looking for speed

          1. Pro-tec shortie ride plate
          2. Scoop intake grate "riva" or remove the stock two bars on the stock one...while your at it....seal the pump better.
          3. K&N filters help with some low/mid power and just slightly on top
          4. Solas I prop works well
          5. Send head to Groupk or Riva for the mod....should be around 160's .."helps bottom and mid"
          6. Riva Boisen stuffers....helps low/mid and even high
          7. Get ya a factory "B" pipe.....
          8. Get rid of them stupid choke plates and install a primer kit!!!! The stock carbs are so restrictive as it is...let alone having them plates in there!!

          Handling is much improved with the plate/grate/ and a 50 mm extended steering nozzle...

          Mike

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          • #6
            Re: Raider 701 setup

            Thanks for the reply,

            How is it going Mike? I talked to Carl at Island Racing today and ordered a Pro-tec ride plate, Worx sponsons, and a R&D top loader grate. He said the R&D grate does not scrub off so much speed on flat water. An impeller is iminent. Ride plates and sponsons are getting hard to find for Raiders. He had to call around to find what was available.
            The engine was warm when I did the compression testing. I did not think to check it first. My guage is a cheap one, but it has the schrader valve in the inlet. I may check it in the morning before I take the ski to the lake for a test ride. I also need a new battery so that will probably help get an accurate reading.
            I am going to leave the engine stock except for maybe the intake. I may machine some intakes on my lathe for it. Otherwise, I like to keep things stock--the last thing I need is to have a tempermental boat. I was reading some of your posts on the PWC today site and know the pain you were having trying to get everything to work--especially the pipe. Since I do not live on a lake it is an hour drive just to do some testing.
            The first thing is to get the ski to go in a straight line. Who needs to keep on going straight while the Raider goes off on it's own?
            How do you improve the sealing on the pump?
            Thanks again,
            Doug

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            • #7
              Re: Raider 701 setup

              Doug,

              Yes installing the factory pipe was a task on the blaster..however the raider had quite a few mods which just took some time to iron out. I will tell ya that ski "raider" has tremendous pull....and once I get it leaned out slightly more it should be 59mph boat. Remember a raider 1100 stock is 58.....with the three banger... I would not of changed what I did to either ski and other then a tunning nightmare with all the new parts added....it's slowly coming around. I am going to go down more on the mains as of now due to being rich....but I wanted to be fat and then work my way back. I did get a 57.7mph run with full fuel running exremely rich....so I figure after this weekend it will be spot on.

              MIke

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              • #8
                Re: Raider 701 setup

                Hey Jet make sure you get the extended nozzle others have mentioned. Mine is a ProTec and has two positions for the steering cable to mount to - one at the stock location and one closer in which makes it steer much quicker. I leave mine at the stock position because the extra length of the nozzle plus the reduced diameter of it gets the nose around much more predictably. With the stock nozzle I found myself cranking the bars to full lock and waiting for the front to come around. Now I just turn and burn and it goes where I want. The other setting will just require less input at the bars to move the nozzle to the same angle, doesnt really affect turning radius. I've yet to be tossed from a Raider "zig"!
                96 Raider 1100 - ProTec ride plate & Extended nozzle, R&D Intake grate
                TS-built 97 GP1200 'sky high' edition

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                • #9
                  Re: Raider 701 setup

                  I am going to look into the nozzle. With all of the boat wakes around here in congested areas I can use all of the control I can get. Not to meantion when I go down to the Gulf in the surf.
                  I got a good 2 hour ride in today, and it also seems like the impeller is over propped. According to the tach I was barely pulling 6200 wide open with the nose up on flat water.
                  Oh well, I did not need that $200 anyway;) .
                  Does anyone know how much fuel is in the reserve on Raiders? When I was riding the 2nd bar dropped out and the fuel warning started flashing. I made it back to my truck no problem, but I need to get that under control.
                  Thanks,
                  Doug

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                  • #10
                    Re: Raider 701 setup

                    Doug,

                    That is perfect RPM for a stock prop man. If you don't modify the engine this is about peak HP for this ski unmodified. If you put and I prop you should be around 6800rpm.....Mine should be around 7150 which the limiter is 7000k +/- 200 rpm. I have seen 7020 at one point but I've changed a lot so went richer to be safe and starting all over like now I'm at 6860rpm......and going leaner tomorrow. If you stock your RPMS are perfect bro and the I don't think you would gain to much if any on TOP end with the I prop.

                    MIke

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