WR500 hard to start

[bkastens]

I was given a 1989 wr500 and have made numerous repairs over the last 3 years, including replacing the leaking hull. It sat in a covered boat dock for several years prior to my obtaining it. I pulled the engine replaced several head bolts, rear exhaust guide, and rear bearing. The cylinder walls and piston heads were in great condition (no scoring, burn marks, etc.) and had good compression. I also replaced all of the filters, cleaned the fuel tank and cleaned up the carburator (not rebuild) along with a new battery. It ran the first try, but I have had problems with it starting up after several good runs.

I replaced the CDI control, installed a new battery and it started right up. Now it is back to it's old games of being hard to start. My guess is that the Carburator needs a rebuild kit. Am I on the right track? Do I need to do anything else while I am in there?

A local jet ski shop had me check the CDI with an Ohm meter. Everything in the stator checked out good except the charging coil, which they said was not essentual to the running of the motor, just turning the motor over. They also said pulling the motor just for the charging coil was just not worth it. I also replaced the spark plug caps. Again, am I on the right track?

[sadchapter]

Re: WR500 hard to start

xxxxxx all my help disappered , used wrong explorer to find , this site:
http://www.atlanticjetsports.com/electrical_-_coils.htm

There you will find new charge coil , it might be the one in your ski having the brown/white wire , test it brown/white to black or ground, should give a reading around 365 ohm , it powers ignition , if no reading , you wont start .

Pull out engine , remove flywheel cover and pull of flywheel with special tool , there you got charge coil , replace it .

Good luck

[bkastens]

Re: WR500 hard to start

I had previously checked all of the coils in the stator and recieved proper readings on all except the "lighting coil" which is used for the battery charging circuit. My CDI control is a 1989 version model 6K8-10 and calls for slightly differant ohm readings than you suggest. Pulser = 104 , Charger = 90 , Lighting = 1 , rectifier = 3 m (I am getting 0 on this one), primary = .3 , secondary = 5.7 (14.2 with new caps). From the information I was given, the coils either work or don't work. With the above information, do you still think it is the charging coil?

[sadchapter]

Re: WR500 hard to start

Have you checked that you got spark?

You also need to check the reed valve , it has to be shut , no openings or it will cause poor pulse to carburator .

If you put a little gas into carburator tower and try to start up , no respons?

Also if old carb, a rebuild kit from SBT would do wonders.
I also cleand my carb , but it was much better even when I got rebuild kit.

And test popoff on carburator. I got 55 PSI on mine and that would make my ski hard to start when old carb and leaky reed is present( I also had bad charge coil)

On top of this you might have stuck stop signal ( black and white wires I think)

And some have difficulties with the temp sensor.

Its gotta be something... :)

[bkastens]

Re: WR500 hard to start

Thanks for all the feed back. That's some great stuff to help trouble shoot my problem.

I had no spark prior to changing out the CDI control. That is when I checked the stator, coil and rectifier wires for proper resistance (per book) and decided (after consulting a local repair shop) that the CDI needed to be changed out. It started right up after changing the CDI so I did not go any further with trouble shooting - assuming that the CDI fixed the problem. I will try a teaspoon of pre-mix in the carb should it be hard to start again then check for spark.

Is it possible for the reed valve to be intermittant?

Yes, it is an an old carb and yes, I did the same - just cleaned the gunk out of it from it sitting for so long as I did not want the jets to be clogged and wanted to be some what sure the gaskets and valves were working or at least workable. I'll go ahead and get the SBT rebuild kit no matter what.

What is "pop-off" and how do I check for it?

The stuck stop signal is something I have not checked for. That is the most obvious and did not check that. I also installed a new start/stop button on the handle bars, but that was over a year ago.

If I were having a problem with the temp senser, wouldn't it still run only at a very low rpm? There again, it is an electrical part and could be intermittant also - true?

Boy, isn't that true - "it's gotta be something" heck, it's always something isn't it. Almost makes me want to get it running and trade it for a newer model sometimes, but $300 is less than $5,000 so I keep putting money into the "hole in the water".

[David3aces]

Re: WR500 hard to start

if you now have good strong spark, ignition is ok...consider installing a carb off a 91 or 92 wr500....it is a MUCH better carb than what came with the 89

[sadchapter]

Re: WR500 hard to start

Its always something , but WHAT A GREAT FEELING when it finally works!

Pop off pressure is what regulates when fuel is to enter from nedle , I think it has little or no effect after certain rpm. Pressure and vacuum is created from crankcase and travels thru intake manifold and enters carburator pulse nipple.
This pumps fuel from tank into carb. Popoff is keeping fuel from swamping the engine with fuel when engine is not running or low rpm , I think.

High popoff demands working reeds and diapragm in carb for engine to be able to start . Search this forum , popoff and there is also some articles on it and video.

[bkastens]

Re: WR500 hard to start

The pop off issue appears would be fixed if I just rebuilt the carb. True?

[sadchapter]

Re: WR500 hard to start

Rebuild kit inkludes all but nedle and seat , those are sold seperatly.

See the http://www.sbtontheweb.com/seadoo-se...cal/guides.htm look at carburator PDF for you model.

When you take them out check for damage of any kind. This is the part that opens and shuts when popoff is working . It could be leaking.
But I think rebuild kit will do , I rebuilt my old carb , only needed to clean N/S.

I just got my ignition coil today , now Im waiting for charge coil and then , if not my baby fires up , Im going to shot myself, twice!

[bkastens]

Re: WR500 hard to start

I believe I will replace the needle and seat along with the rebuild kit. Will I need a special tool to remove the needle seat?

I have had problems with the check valve in the main diaphram assembly in the past due to corrosion of the cover. I would have made this part out of stainless steel and may make one to replace it. I would think this check valve is criticial to the proper operation of the needle valve and/or the pop off operation.

I am still very suspicious of the cut off switch becoming stuck and will watch for it also.

[sadchapter]

Re: WR500 hard to start

Pull it right off ,if there is a plate holding it down remove this first , then grab it on the outside and pull it out , if you are going to use it over again , dont damage the inside of seat.

[bkastens]

Re: WR500 hard to start

I have the feeling we are talking about the removal of two differant items. The Needle valve and seat assembly in mine is screwed into the carburator body.

The "main diaphragm" chamber also as a teflon check valve (P/N BN38/314)which is held in place by a rectangular shaped piece of steel (which rusts if the ski is not used for a long period).

It sounds like you are talking about the teflon check valve which will be replaced with the rebuild kit.

I will also be changing out the needle and seat assembly and I believe I may need a turned down socket to get it out or something else. What tool would you recommend to remove the seat without damaging it or the carb. body?

By the way, are you in Norway?

[sadchapter]

Re: WR500 hard to start

Is this your carb?
http://www.sbtontheweb.com/pdfs/mikunibn.pdf

Can you post picture of parts you are refering to?

Mikuni SBN 44 is way better than that old thingy you got... :emoticonc

Maybe you can find a SBN 44 on ebay?

Yes , I live in freezing Norway.
I'll have to hurry getting my ski ready , summer is almost over...

[bkastens]

Re: WR500 hard to start

Yes, that's my beast alright:( . I downloaded the rebuild instructions and see that I have been using the wrong names for some of the parts. The high speed circuit cover is the part that is made of steel and will rust over time when not in use.

Also, it appears the needle "seat" in this photograph is removed by just pulling it out. Mine has a six sided nut like top like in the photo 1.8. It appears (like you say) to just grasp it with some needle nose pliers and give it a pull and it will come right out. Correct? Or would you suggest the use of a differant tool.

I see there is a fuel filter screen in the carb. Where is it located and how do I get it out?

What makes the SBM 44 carb better than the BM? I'll look for one on ebay.

Good grief, Norway! When do you have a season to ride a jet ski? You must have to wear a wet suit all the time. Heck, the women probably don't wear a string bikini on a jet ski there. That's enough to bring me back to the states:emoticons .

[sadchapter]

Re: WR500 hard to start

SBN 44 is an improved carb by far .

The internal fuelfilter is on other side , fuel pump side. It is located at the hole that goes to N/S I would think.

I got new filter in my rebuild kit , Im not sure it comes in your kit.

Its important to get it perfect the first time or there will be some slight cursing when problems occur at the lake or sea.

I've been very lucky , I have done nothing but cleaning and lubing my ski for years now , and first now it all needed some servicing.

Got new bore , new pistons , complete gasket kit , carb rebuild , ignition rebuild and all wires and hoses has been replaced.

For me the makeover cost me 1300$ getting parts from US 2000$ if I were to buy them in Norway.

Also politicians have banned all types of skis from lakes and sea ares, so now its Smokey and the Marine Bandit at all times , but not to worry th fine is just 800$ hahaha....